OverviewJiehkkevarri is the highest mountain in the Lyngen Alps. It's been called the Mont Blanc of the North by some, and there are some similarities. It is the highest in its range, the summit is a glaciated dome, and the easiest routes are by traversing from other nearby peaks.
Jeikkevarri is a frustrating mountain to photograph as it doesn't really stand out as it is surrounded by other peaks, and is a flat domed summit. The mountain is seldom directly climbed, almost all skiers and mountaineers approach via a different mountain, and then traverse over. This can make for a an excellent long ski traverse as several peaks can be summited on the same tour.
Jeikkevarri's walls are up to 1,300 meters in height. They are raked by avalanche, icefall from hanging glaciers, and rockfall. Yet, thanks to the connecting peaks, the summit can be reached without having to face these objective dangers. However, it's no hike: glacier travel is mandatory, and there are sections of avalanche prone slopes by any route.
Getting ThereDriving directions are in the route descriptions.
Route OverviewBecause this peak is reached almost exclusively by ski or splitboard, choosing the best ascent\descent routes depends on snow conditions, and what routes offers the best ski decent. Most routes start from the west.
Holmbukttinden (peak) is the most common route used on the ascent. It is commonly used for the descent as well. It offers the safest line to the summit, and the route to the Holmbukttind summit itself is a good ski run down. Not so enjoyable is the down and up traverse on the return from Jeikkehvare to Holmbukttind.
Blåisen: The Blue Ice Glacier is the most direct route to the summit. There are two short steeper sections that can be difficult to surmount without taking off the skis, and there is often crevasse danger so most parties rope up if unfamiliar with the route, or if it's later in the season. That said, most of the route can be skied up, and the crevasse danger is moderate as much of the route follows lateral moraines past the steeper icefalls.
Fugledalsbreen (glacier) is an often used descent route, and is occasionally used on ascent. The long ascending traverse from above the glacier, and the steep descent to the glacier dictate that this route is better on the descent.
Fornesbreen (glacier) is seldom used on the ascent, more commonly used on descent. This long North facing valley is a trudge going up, but a great easy descent on skis in early season. A poor choice in late season due to enormous piles of talus fans and moraines to hike over.
Lyngsdalen: The only commonly used route from the east. The advantage is that this route goes directly to the summit without ascending other peaks first. The valley approach, glacier ascent, and ridge climb make for great variety. The disadvantage is that it is long, and because of the rock scrambling, impractible to carry skis. Check photos and descriptions from AlexS on this page.
External LinksPhotos and topos of the tour of Jiehkkevarri from Holmbukttinden to FornesbreenTour of Jiehkkevarri
Photos and topos of the Holmbukttinden routeKugo.no website