Horn Route

Overview

The first route in the rocky face of Jalovec above Tamar is a masterpiece of Ferdinand Horn from Graz/Gradec, who climbed it solo. In the complex east face he found despite challenges nice natural passages. Still today climbers should be careful about orientation, otherwise they can easily end in a much more difficult terrain. Note: A rockslide before the start of Horn chimney a little bit raised the difficulty grading of the route. The new grading is IV+, (A0)/III.

How Ferdinand Horn Climbed On Jalovec

Gangolf Haub - Jalovec from the NE

It was back in August 1st, 1909. Horn came alone and climbed on Jalovec alone. He was carrying an ice pick and a rope. It is interesting how he used his rope. He put the middle part of it around a rock and roped himself on both ends. When doing that part of a climb, he unroped on one end and pulled the rope. That technique showed also a disadvantage. Already in the beginning of his climb on Jalovec the rope with a backpack on it got stucked. Horn pulled it, but the rope broke and down the wall went his crampons, shoes, food and drink. Horn then threw down also the backpack. As he entered the route late, he reached the summit only towards the evening. He wanted to bivouac there, but it was too cold. By cutting steps in the hard snow of Jalovec couloir, he descended in his warn-out old climbing shoes. After 16 hours he was still searching for his equipment below the wall. A great achievement in the pioneering times of rock climbing!

Approach

Planica Valley - Tamar Hut. From there you hike up to the entrance of Jalovec Couloir. The lowest rocks of the pillar right of it are the entrance of the route.

Route Description

See a good overview picture here. Horn route is No. 4. Source: Peter Podgornik: Primorske stene.

The entry is some 30 m right of the lowest point of the wall. At first, we climb some 50 m towards the left, the terrain is not difficult. So we reach steep slabs. We climb right by them up and on the ledge. By the ledge we go left around a rocky belly and enter a distinct chimney. The rock in it is solid and difficulties are around degree III. We climb the chimney vertically up and exit of it on a big flat rubble terrace, called "Kegljišče".

From the top of Kegljišče we follow a broad band, covered with rubble, left around the corner. Then we follow a system of ledges, climbing up from one on another. There are some steep sections and so we reach a big, black cave. (there the variant deters). We climb left and up, more and more hanging over the Couloir. There we reach the second cave, climb almost to its top and left out. Here we are below the most difficult part - the Horn chimney. In the lower part a fresh rock slide makes the ascent even harder. Above, the climb gets easier, we reach big overhangs where also Horn didn't know where to proceed. Just when we reach them the big Jalovec window opens. Through it you scramble without problems to the roof above it.

It looks that the climb is over. But we have one more hour to go. You scramble the scree and easy rocks towards the near summit, on the edge you look down over the vertical north wall, and then another rocky step comes. But it is not hard and above it the difficulties are really finished. You reach the summit.

Descent

We best descend by the normal route down into Planica valley. This means going down by the Jalovec Couloir. Only in good conditions it can be safely done without additional equipment (ice pick, crampons). If snow is hard (often in late summer), the couloir can be dangerous and it's better to go down by the detour over Jalovška škrbina (notch). In the couloir there's also a constant danger of rockfall.

Essential Gear

Rock climbing equipment for up to IV degree.

In Memoriam

On My 28th, 1950 a terrible accident happened in Horn route. Three young, promising climbers, members of AO Univerza (today Akademski AO) died. In the route itself Igor Kovačič and Slavko Tominc died due to exhaustion and cold. The third climber, Vranc Vavpotič, died of the same reason on the descent above the couloir, when he was hurrying down to call rescue teams. A memorial plaque near the route entry reminds us on these events, and every year still a commemoration event is being held. Peter Podgornik: Primorske stene on-line page.

Outside Links

Peter Podgornik: Primorske stene (in Slovenian language).