Page Type: Route
Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe
46.42094°N / 13.67974°E
Most of a day
Created/Edited: Oct 30, 2002 / Oct 6, 2009
Object ID: 157276
Page Score: 75.81%
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ApproachPlanica Valley - Tamar Hut. From there you hike up to the entrance of Jalovec Couloir. The lowest rocks of the pillar right of it are the entrance of the route.
How Ferdinand Horn Climbed On JalovecIt was back in 1909. Horn came alone and climbed on Jalovec alone. He was carrying an ice pick and a rope. It is interesting how he used his rope. He put the middle part of it around a rock and roped himself on both ends. When doing that part of a climb, he unroped on one end and pulled the rope. That technique showed also a disadvantage. Already in the beginning of his climb on Jalovec the rope with a backpack on it got stucked. Horn pulled it, but the rope broke and down the wall went his crampons, shoes, food and drink. Horn then threw down also the backpack. As he entered the route late, he reached the summit only towards the evening. He wanted to bivouac there, but was too cold. By cutting steps in the hard snow of Jalovec couloir, he descended in his warn-out old climbing shoes. After 16 hours he was still searching for his equipment below the wall. A great achievement in the pioneering times of rock climbing.
Over first few rocks you scramble up and reach a place where you rope-up. Then soon a traverse begins with first difficulties - a rock belly and behind it a vertical chimney. But the rock is solid enough and difficulties do not exceed 3rd degree. Above the chimney it's easier and we reach the rubble terrace, called 'Kegljišče'. From the top of it we enter an open face, intermitted with several ledges. Using the ledges and climbing up we cross the face towards the left, till a big cave. We climb left and up, more and more hanging over the Couloir. There we reach the second cave, climb almost to its top and left out. Here we are below the most difficult part - the Horn chimney. In the lower part a fresh rock slide makes the ascent even harder. Above, the climb gets easier, we reach big overhangs where also Horn didn't know where to proceed. Just when we reach them the big Jalovec window opens. Through it you scramble without problems to the roof above it.
It looks that the climb is over. But we have one more hour to go. You scramble the scree and easy rocks towards the near summit, on the edge you look down over the vertical north wall, and then another rock step comes. But it is not hard and above it the difficulties are really finished. You reach the summit.
Essential GearRock climbing equipment for up to IV degree.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.