OverviewThe first route in the rocky face of Jalovec above Tamar is a masterpiece of Ferdinand Horn from Graz/Gradec, who climbed it solo. In the complex east face he found despite challenges nice natural passages. Still today climbers should be aware of orientation, otherwise they can easily end in a much more difficult terrain.
Note: A rockslide before the start of Horn chimney a little bit raised the difficulty grading of the route. The new grading is IV+, (A0)/III.
How Ferdinand Horn Climbed On Jalovec
ApproachPlanica Valley - Tamar Hut. From there you hike up to the entrance of Jalovec Couloir. The lowest rocks of the pillar right of it are the entrance of the route.
The entry is some 30 m right of the lowest point of the wall. At first, we climb some 50 m towards the left, the terrain is not difficult. So we reach steep slabs. We climb right by them up and on the ledge. By the ledge we go left around a rocky belly and enter a distinct chimney. The rock in it is solid and difficulties are around degree III. We climb the chimney vertically up and exit of it on a big flat rubble terrace, called "Kegljišče". From the top of it we follow a broad band, covered with rubble, left around the corner. Then we follow a system of ledges, climbing up from one on another. There are some steep sections and so we reach a big, black cave. (there the variant deters). We climb left and up, more and more hanging over the Couloir. There we reach the second cave, climb almost to its top and left out. Here we are below the most difficult part - the Horn chimney. In the lower part a fresh rock slide makes the ascent even harder. Above, the climb gets easier, we reach big overhangs where also Horn didn't know where to proceed. Just when we reach them the big Jalovec window opens. Through it you scramble without problems to the roof above it.
Essential GearRock climbing equipment for up to IV degree.
In MemoriamOn My 28th, 1950 a terrible accident happened in Horn route. Three young, promising climbers, members of AO Univerza (today Akademski AO) died. In the route itself Igor Kovačič and Slavko Tominc died due to exhaustion and cold. The third climber, Vranc Vavpotič, died of the same reason on the descent above the couloir, when he was hurrying down to call rescue teams.
A memorial plaque near the route entry reminds us on these events, and every year still a commemoration event is being held. Peter Podgornik: Primorske stene on-line page.