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Huayna Potosi Climber's Log

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BergrotRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: 19 Oct 2002  Sucess!

Bergrot

Very nice views on the altiplano, La Paz and the cordillera real. Start early in the night to avoid soft snow on the last 200 meters. Easy ascent with only little technical difficulties. My first 6000m peak.
Posted Jul 29, 2005 11:52 am

backpack2Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: March 27, 2005  Sucess!
Crazy climb, did it in about 30 hours from La Paz. Left La Paz and got to high camp and we were absolutely exhausted. Then we had some training as it was our first snow climb. Went to bed at 6pm and couldnt sleep, really nervous. Left high camp at about 1:30am under a full moon. Saw lightning storms from the Amazon in the distance. Got to the final wall at 5900m at about 5:30 and honestly, neither my friend nor I knew how we were going to make it up that wall. It was windy and about 25 below. Reached the summit finally about about 7am, Easter Sunday. Couldn't believe it, actually made it. Was about three hours down to high camp and another two hours down to low camp. A great experience. Thanks to my buddy Greg and Juan and his staff at Azimut Explorer. We paid a lot more to go with them but they were very professional and always kept asking us questions to check for altitude sickness.
Posted Jun 22, 2005 1:43 pm

n8jojohnsonRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 09-June-05

n8jojohnson

Were thwarted from reaching Zongo Pass due to "campesinos" occupying the area --- and the inherent road-blocks. Had to return to La Paz in order to evacuated the country.
Posted Jun 11, 2005 12:59 am

hyperbolictansRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 5th June 2005  Sucess!

hyperbolictans

Getting to Zongo pass from La Paz was an adventure by itself in the current political unrest, as numerous road blockades were set up around La Paz. After trying for two nights, we finally sneaked thru the blockades and arrived at Zongo Pass (4790m) at 3am, 4th June. We left high camp (5180m) at 2am (5th June) and summited at 9:20am. Amazing views. Jeff, another tourist and I climbed with Hugo, a guide from Explorama tour agency
Posted Jun 6, 2005 4:59 pm

tahaiRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: June 2000  Sucess!

tahai

Beautiful mountain and great climb! We started at Refugio Zongo and hiked to our high camp at 5.300m (above Campo Rocca). The next day we started at 1:00am and reached the summit at about 11:00 under perfect weather conditions. Awesome views of the Condoriri Massiv from the summit.

For additional information, many pics and a 180° panorama from the summit check out my website under www.karsten-rau.de .
Posted Jan 21, 2005 4:44 pm

ripper333Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: august 1998
spent 2 weeks trekking around bolivia , lake titicaca, condoriri national

park etc. before taking on the mountain. spent a nite

at the hut than to a high camp at 18,000. a chilly nite

with no sleep but a killer full moon made up for it!

left about 2 or so for the summit. bright sunny day.

knife edge sketchy ridge to the true summit was

exciting.climbing in south america i have to say has been

life changing. the people encountered along the

way on this trip were truly incredible souls.
Posted Oct 20, 2004 10:46 pm

jasonconnellRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: June 8th 2004

jasonconnell

Nice climb, had the mountain nearly to ourselves. Last 200M sucked! Nasty SA ice crap.


Pictures
Posted Jun 22, 2004 8:03 pm

roadsidefireRoute Climbed: Normal East Face Date Climbed: June 2003  Sucess!

roadsidefire

Last 200m of ice climbing was definitely the high light. The week in Huaraz also helped.
Posted Apr 14, 2004 4:23 am

YKnotRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: May 14, 2001  Sucess!

YKnot

Fellow gringo David Schensted and I climbed Huayna by the normal route, round trip from La Paz in a single day. We had intended to do the impressive looking Via de los Franceses, but spent too much time eating breakfast and driving in circles through El Alto; so it was way too warm by the time we got to Campo Argentina. The weather was clear, windless and very warm. Dave was so strong on the final summit slope that I suspect he would have carried me to the top if that had been necessary. Our hardy cache of Pacena took the edge off the always gripping drive back to La Paz.
Posted Jan 22, 2004 1:57 am

knolfRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 28th December 2003  Sucess!
Climbed the normal route.Summited after 3 attempts because of heavy snow fall. The climb was quite hard because of the conditions ( weather, snow, .... ). Would like to do more climbing in Bolivia .... in the climbing season !
Posted Jan 20, 2004 4:20 pm

Nyle Walton The cheap fast way to climb to twenty thousand feet.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 2, 1958

Nyle Walton

It appears that my climb of Huayna Potosi predates all the others in the summit log by almost half a century. I feel like a pioneer.

After hitchhiking for over four months from Salt Lake City south along the Pan American Highway, Karl Nelson and I reached La Paz. From Desaguadero on the Peruvian-Bolivian border at Lake Titicaca, we got a ride into La Paz in a U.S. Army deuce-and-a-half truck. It belonged to the U.S. Geodetic Survey Mission to Bolivia. With our eyes on Huayna Potosi looming on the eastern horizon, we borrowed a mountain tent from that organization and together with two members of the Club Andino de Bolivia, one Peter Toussaint (now deceased) and Col. (now General retired) Ramon Acero, launched an attempt on the mountain.

The club's van delivered us to the mountain's base at fifteen thousand feet on May 1 (May Day). Two miners from Milluni, off for the holiday, served as "sherpas" to carry our loads to the snout of the glacier. From there we toted the loads abit higher to the first level spot on snowvunder a spectacular ice cliff at 17,500 where we pitched our tents.

The next morning Karl refused to leave his sleeping bag. He had altitude sickness. Peter, Ramon, and I put on our crampons and attacked the ice pitch above the camp. The day was cloudless and we made excellent progress. On the broad plateau below the summit pyramid, Ramon vomitted his breakfast and fell behind. Together Peter and I traversed eastward to a corniced ridge that led ever more steeply past rock outcrops to the final peak. We stood on top of Huayna Potosi at one in the afternoon. Meanwhile Ramon recovered and followed our tracks to join us on the summit a half hour later.

Meanwhile clouds had risen to hide all but the highest summits of the Cordillera Real. After hand-shaking congratulations and poses for photographs, we remained on the sharp corniced peak for half an hour before undertaking a cautious and then a long glissading descent back to camp. The low sun in the west illuminated Illimani to the south as we completed the final thousand feet down to our awaiting tents where we aroused Karl from his sleeping bag (see photos and images).

Two days later, the Club Andino had a ski meet on Mount Chacaltaya where we celebrated our success and danced mambos and cha-cha-chas with the chicas inside the lodge over 17,000 feet above the sea. Proud Peter showed off his mountaineering prowess to the girls by abseiling off the lodge platform to the ski slope below it.

A week later, Karl and I continued our hitchhiking journey southward. We got to Mendoza, Argentina, before I came down with hepititus, probably from virus in food I had eaten in Bolivia. I spent a week in a hospital and then flew back home to Utah via Santiago and Mexico City. Meanwhile Karl got his draft notice as he was about to embark for Cape Horn from Puerto Montt, Chile, and had to fly back to San Francisco to join Uncle Sam's army.

In just over six months we had traveled through Mexico, Central America and down the Andes from Colombia to Argentina for a total expenditure of around three hundred dollars each, transportation, food and lodging all included. The climb of Huayna Potosi was the crowning achievement of the trip and cost us practically nothing. Nineteen fifty eight was my golden year of adventure travel.
Posted Oct 31, 2003 12:22 pm

Pedro HauckRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: july 2003  Sucess!

Pedro Hauck

carefull with the weather changes, but, easy summit.. a classical bolivian climb!
Posted Oct 20, 2003 10:30 pm

sdmarcusRoute Climbed: Normal Esat face Date Climbed: JUne 10 2003  Sucess!

sdmarcus

Gorgeous mountain from all aspects. Nice steep pitch the final 200 meters provided a little variety.
Posted Jun 24, 2003 4:01 pm

sdmarcusRoute Climbed: Normal Esat face Date Climbed: JUne 10 2003  Sucess!

sdmarcus

Gorgeous mountain from all aspects. Nice steep pitch the final 200 meters provided a little variety.
Posted Jun 24, 2003 3:59 pm

gilles debrayRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: May 28, 2003  Sucess!
"We just summited Huayna Potosi this morning, we contacted Bolivian Journeys by internet, a bolivian company highly recommended, now we know why, the whole organization was good. Luis Palli our guide did a great job. Contact Bolivian Journeys at: www.bolivianjourneys.org"



Posted May 29, 2003 8:11 am

VinnyRoute Climbed: via noraml Date Climbed: May 12, 2003

Vinny

We camped 2 nights at the dirty but not too busy Campo Roca 5000m. It was my first time climbing at such an altitude. Robin and I were stymied by illness- estomagos gringos- maybe something we ate, but we took turns not feeling quite right.

I puked my way up the easy part to 5500m before realizing it wasn't going to happen.

Great weather and snow conditions allowed 6 summiters (including one solo Chamoniard) the day previous, but all in all 50% success rate over 2 days due to altitude problems alone. Most people seemed to be using guides.

La proxima vez!



days later I was admitted to hospital with a Respiratory infection (4strains), gastro-enteritis (actually salmonella) and resultant severe dehydration. I recommend the health srevices of clinica del sur should you need ém. Also beware petty theft (we had a backpack stolen when our guard was down) or course. Be forewarned! Besides sanitation, Bolivia is wonderful! Enjoy it!
Posted May 12, 2003 5:21 pm

brankoiRoute Climbed: La vía de los Franceses Date Climbed: May 20th, 1998  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 20, 1998

brankoi

Branko Ivanek (Slovenia) and Stefan Helfenstein (Schweiz) did the "La vía de los Franceses" on Huayna Potosí East Face, AD+, 55deg., 300m from the bergschround in the straight push from Zongo Pass (4770m). We were up and down in 22 hours.


They took two hours from Campamento Argentino to the base of the Route for there are several crevasses and we had to climb 10m high serac (80deg.)


Photo
Posted Nov 3, 2002 12:48 am

Mathias ZehringRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: June 11th 1998  Sucess!

Mathias Zehring

with a guided tour from germany. After a very cold night at Argentino camp it was very convenient at the mountain with almost no wind. In this El Nino year there was so few snow that most of the final ridge could be walked easily in the rocks just beneath the snow ridge.
Posted Sep 27, 2002 9:47 am

Wyoming BobRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: August 1, 2001  Sucess!

Wyoming Bob

Climbed with group from Colorado Mountain School. Two three person rope teams, all summited. See report for text and photos if interested.
Posted Sep 15, 2002 8:09 pm

spyder550Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 9 August, 2002  Sucess!

spyder550

Very easy climb until last 100 meters. It is somewhere near 50 degrees but at altitude it can be tiring. Mountain is very popular so stay away if you aren't into crowded areas. Great, easy, high altitude climb otherwise.
Posted Aug 13, 2002 1:13 pm

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