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Huayna Potosi Climber's Log

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ClimbLerRoute Climbed: normal route (south-east buttress) Date Climbed: August 20-21, 2001
We left La Paz and reached the base of Huayna Potosi within two hours. during the drive to the mountain, clouds began to quickly form over the summit and by the time we had parked, the mountain was completely covered by the growing storm. we proceeded to climb up a prominant ridge that ran up next to the large, fractured glacier that flows at the base of the Southern face. from the ridge we ascended a short class 4 wall at 16,000 ft. Above the ridge however, visibility dropped to about 15 feet with winds reaching 40 mph. The route led up and over the wall onto a sloping snow field that wrapped around a fairly prominent rock arete. As the arete tapered off, the route led over a small shoulder upon which the high camp sat at 17,500 ft.

The night exhibited strong winds with gusts up to 50 mph and unfortunatly, 3 feet of fresh snow. These conditions immediatly halted all attempts for the summit that morning and forced us down without ever allowing us a clear view of our initial objective.

All the more reason to return to Bolivia and make another attempt at the mountain.
Posted Jun 30, 2002 8:17 pm

El Tigre ValderramaRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: July 1999

El Tigre Valderrama

Got there afte one week in la Paz, very nice and very beautiful. Took three days to get to the summit, as I was aclimatizing. Could not make the last part of the ridge. I climbed it with some Brazilians friends. but One piece of advice: check the Tikimany Peak. Its views from the Huayna are awesome.
Posted Jun 15, 2002 10:02 pm

felixRoute Climbed: Normal with east face variant Date Climbed: August 1997  Sucess!
Climbed normal route without taking the summit ridge. Took the east face. Perfect weather. Great view to Lake Titicaca. Had problems because of missing acclimatisation and because of not sufficient water.

Posted Mar 28, 2002 5:03 am

jonasRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: april and may 2001  Sucess!
The first time I did was my first time ever wearing crampons and firs time above 5300m. My guide and I started out from La Paz at midnight reached Bc. 0130 and we left at app.0230 I don't know what time we summited but it was a little late 09-1000 I think. Nothing could be seen due to fog.We were back at Bc by 1300.

I returned a week later with a friend and we spend the night a little lower than Plaza Argentinadue to "sleep low climb high" reached the summt early and the view was spectacular. Originally we wanted to do another line but there was too much snow. It would have been possible later in the season.
Posted Feb 13, 2002 5:08 am

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