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Ice Nose

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Engadinia, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.23000°N / 9.99990°E

Object Title: Ice Nose

Route Type: Basic snow/rock climb with a short steep section

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: ZS, 2

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: kletterwebbi

Created/Edited: Sep 17, 2002 / Sep 17, 2002

Object ID: 156960

Hits: 2235 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Approach


Start at the Diavolezza hut and follow the path of the regular route to the Piz Palü. After about one hour the Persgletscher is reached (nearby the Fuorcula d'Arlas). Crossing the glacier direction N brings you to a steep ice / snow field. On most days there should be a good path.


Route Description


Start the route traversing the ice field from left to right brings you at the base of the NNW-butress. Follow the rock of the butress up to a shoulder. There a first snow field starts.

Going up this snow field at the left side of the butress. Great view to the seracs at the n-face of the Piz Cambrena. This brings you at a rock step. Climb this step, UIAA grade 2, may be some difficulties if icy.

Above the step the ice nose starts. This are some pitches of moderate ice climbing up to 45°.

Finally go up the harmless snow fields up to the summit. The right summit is the highest point of the Piz Cambrena.

The route is shown by the red line in the routes overview photo.

Essential Gear


Crampons, rope, ice screws, one or two ice axes (depends on your personal possibilities), helmet.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Piz Cambrena & Piz PalùDiavolezza and Piz CambrenaPiz Cambrena from the north, on the Pers glacierLooking down on the Pers glacier from Piz CambrenaGetting on the glacier on the Ice Nose routeThat was steep!Shortening the rope