In Memory of Stefan "kletterwebbi" WeberA note from the SP staff
Stefan Weber, the member we all used to know from his climbing pseudonym kletterwebbi, died on May 28th 2004 in southern France at the age of 37.
Stefan joined SP early on in 2002 and contributed a number of excellent pages and routes to this site. He was an accomplished climber excelling in difficult alpine and technical routes. The Dolomites, especially the area around Gröden / Val Gardena were special to him, as it was his old ancestral home.
kletterwebbi was always willing to share his knowledge and experience with other climbers, mainly here on SP, but also on other sites. He contributed his IT expertise as webmaster of his local section of the German Alpine Club, where he also engaged in leading trips for fellow members. Besides his climbing and mountaineering activities he was a musician, a composer of contemporary music. Stefan will be greatly missed by us all.
This page will be kept in honor of kletterwebbi, one of SP's most talented, knowledgeable members, and without a doubt, one of our greatest fellow mountaineers.
The picture was taken on the summit ridge of Lyskamm.
OverviewThe Piz Cambrena is one of the famous mountains of the "Festsaal der Alpen", as the mountain group around the Piz Bernina is called. The Piz Cambrena is the last remarkable peak in the fantastic range surrounding the Morteratsch-basin which contains mountains like Piz Bernina, Piz Roseg or Piz Palü. The Piz cambrena is covered by snow with some disrupted glaciers with big seracs.
There are three main ridges (SE, N, WSW), three main faces (E,NW and S) and a prominent NNW-buttress. The main W-summit is about 4 meters higher then the E-summit. There are different cols around the peak : the Fuorcla Pers Palü (3445 m) at the west connects the Piz Cambrena with the Piz Palü (3905 m), the Fuorcla dal Cambrena (3373 m) at the east separates the Piz cambrena from the Piz Caral (3421 m).Finally in the north the Piz Cambrena joins the Piz d'Arlas (3375 m) with a long rock crest.
There is no easy route to the summit, all of them at least need at least basic rock and/or ice climbing possibilities. Nevertheless the Piz Cambrena is climbed very often.The Diavolezza is a real optimal starting point for the Piz Cambrena witch allows quite short tours.
The most famous route is the traverse going up the NNW-butress ("Eisnase" = ice nose) and going down via Piz d'Arlas.
Getting thereTo get to the Piz Cambreba travel to the Engadin. Villages like St. Moritz or Pontresina are good places to start.
The best trailhead is the Diavolezza hut (2973 m). This can be reached by a cable car from the route to the Bernina Pass. It's also possible to hike up from the street to the hut (takes about 2-3 hours).
Red TapeYou do not need any permissions. The fee for the cable car to Diavolezza is about 28 SFr (retour ticket).
When to climbThe routes of the Piz Cambrena are climbable in Summer (june -> oktober).
Also in winter some of the routes (ice nose!) are done quite often because it's easy to reach them (cable !)
Mountain ConditionsThe best place to get informations about the actual weather conditions is the Meteo Schweizwebsite.
Informations about mountain conditions also can be found at the homepages of St. Moritz or Pontresina .
CampingThere are two campgrounds at Pontresina, one directly at the crossing Pontresina / St. Moritz about 3 km NW of Pontresina.
The other one - Camping Plauns - can be found abount 5 km SE of Pontresina below the morteratsch glacier (direction Bernina Pass).
For climbing the Piz Cambrena most people will start at the Diavolezza hut. For Reservations:
Tel: +41 81 842 62 05 / Fax +41 81 842 61 58
RoutesN-ridge : ZS, 3, about 4 hours from Diavolezza, this is the regular route, moderate rock climbing, finally some snow/ice hiking.
N-flank : SS, 3, 4-6 hours from Diavolezza, serious danger of icefall, uncommon, sometimes very hard
NNW-butress (Eisnase, "ice nose") : ZS, 2, 4-6 hours from Diavolezza, the most famous route, some pitches ice climbing up to 45°, all the rest is moderate rock and ice climbing.
SW-ridge : ZS, 2, 5 hours from Diavolezza, mainly rock climbing
NW-buttress : ZS, 3-4, 5-6 hours from Diavolezza
The combination of the NNW-buttres (ice nose) and the N-ridge is a great, no to difficult, not to long route.
An other great but demanding tour is the traverse Diavolezza -> Piz Cambrena -> Piz Palü -> Diavolezza.
Guidebook & MapThe routes of the Piz Cambrena are described in the guide book "Clubführer SAC Bündner Alpen band 5" (ISBN 3-85902-131-1)
The map is the "Carta Nazionale della Svizerra" (swiss national card) Nr. 1278 ("La Rösa").
- Peaks overview
Click on "map" at this site for an excellent diagram of the peaks in the area and the location of the Berghaus Diavolezza.
The "Berggasthaus Diavolezza" page ...