N-ridge

Approach

Best trailhead is the Diavolezza. Like for the regular route to Piz Palü or other routes at the Piz Cambrena follow a good, marked path to the Pers Gletscher.

When the glacier is reached (about 1 hour from Diavolezza), turn left and go to the Fuorcula d'Arlas. There the route starts.

Route Description

The first thing to do for the Piz Cambrena N-ridge is, to climb the Piz d'Arlas. This is usually done starting at the Fuorcula d'Arlas and going up the NW-flank. Hike up this easy flank (loose rock, some snow) up to the summit of the Piz d'Arals, this will take about 1 hour from the Fuorcula.

At the summit of the Piz d'Arlas the N-ridge of the Piz Cambrena starts. Most time you will follow the sometimes very sharp edge of the ridge. Easy but exposed, really nice ! At the end of the rock part ther's a great gendarme. This is climbed at the left (east) side on ledges and a gully (UIAA grade 3, loose rock, this is the crux)..

From the top of the gendarme go down to the snow of the final part of the ridge. Going up the snow fileds (some crevasses) in direction SW will bring you to the main summit of the Piz Cambrena (2-3 hours from Piz d'Arlas).

This is the most used descent route too.

An overview photo can be found at the Ice Nose Route description.

Essential Gear

Rope, crampons, ice axe, slings.

Depending on your rock climbing possibilities some rocks/nuts/friends will be usefull.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Dangers

Low danger at all : the rock part of the route is somewhat loose, but on the edge of the ridge there is no danger of rockfall.

At the final snow field below the summit there are some - sometimes hiden - crevasses.

Images

View N-ridge Image Gallery - 16 Images