Ice Route

Overview

By that initially somewhat longer ascent to the north, one comes for it into the benefit of the longest passages over snowfields and glacier, which makes the ascent a very beautiful route.

Getting There

Starting at camp II, one traverses at the foothills of Cerro Tres Cruces Sur toward northeast. One meets again and again a path, which facilitates the ascending in the loose scree for something.

After one crossed a snowfield (S27 05,286 W68 48,477, 5578 m), one traverses further toward northeast, but gains more and more height, till one finally is below the pass and ascends now directly to the pass.

One establishes the camp (S27 04,986 W68 47,642, 5896 m) beside the highest situated lake in direct height of a snowfield, where one has usually good drinking water. The water of the lakes is salty and brackish.

Route Description

From the High Camp (S27 04,986 W68 47,642, 5896 m) one goes south-eastwards over the ridge that comes down from Cerro Tres Cruces Sur, to the position S27 04,979 W68 47,422 (5935 m) and then to S27 05,005 W68 47,357 (5973 m), further to the east along the first snowfield and further to the next one. That one climbs up to the top edge. Here over scree further to the next snowfield to ascend this. At the top edge arrived, again a short distance over scree and rocks follows to the glacier at approx. 6480 meters. This one climbs till the summit.

The same route makes the probably simplest descent.

Essential Gear

Since in every case the glaciated summit area has to be used, crampons are absolutely necessary.

Images

View Ice Route Image Gallery - 1 Images