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ChristianRodriguezRock and ice climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2008


We expecting a climb of rocks and just a few snow... But a big surprised both volcanoes Iliniza Norte & Sur, were covered with snow, great experience climbing mixture rocks and ice. over 20 persons made it succesfully, so many people fails with high altitude sickness.
Posted Sep 7, 2008 11:39 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2008

Boriss Andean

Climbed with Trevor (ENG) and Japhy (NEPAL). Initially we were going to climb Illiniza Sur, but avalanche danger made us switch to Illiniza Norte.

We left the refuge around 7:30 am. The mountain was completely covered by snow. We put crampons on as soon as we reached the ridge. An easy climb with not too much wind. Got to the top (5,126 m/16,818 ft) after 2 and a half hours of climbing.

We had a couple of lost items during the climb; Japhy's down jacket and Trevor's piolet. Sorry about that guys :-(
Posted Sep 3, 2008 7:07 pm

Desert SolitaireRIP, favorite jacket...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2008

Desert Solitaire

Climbed with my friend Boriss (ECU) and Trevor (UK) from the refugio. Fresh snow the night before and avalanche hazard prompted us to abort from Illiniza Sur, so we headed to Norte as a consolation prize.

Snowy, but not cold enough for the snow to consolidate. Crampons from the saddle all the way to the summit, with snow on every rock. Nice short climb, with enough moves to keep things interesting - LOTS of fun! No views at the summit.

Unfortunately, I lost my favorite down jacket at a rest spot and shed a few tears as I saw it tumbling down into the void. Searched for 4 hours later in the day down below, but my guess is that the strong afternoon winds must have blown it into oblivion. RIP, favorite jacket.
Posted Aug 27, 2008 11:57 am

TexasClimber3SNOW SNOW SNOW  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2008


Apparently it was the most snow the locals have seen in years...Saw a few people at the refuge on the way up who didn't summit because the snow was too deep. We gave it a try anyways and made it. One of my favorite climbs so far!
Posted Aug 21, 2008 10:59 am

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2008

Boriss Andean

Climbed with Pilar and Xavi from Spain. We left the refuge at 7:20 am and headed up to the summit by the ridge located at the right side of the saddle formed between Illiniza Sur and Norte.

The morning was a bit cloudy but windless. Weather conditions improved a bit for a while and we got to see both peaks fully cover by soft snow.

Got to the top (5,126 m/16,818 ft) after 3 hours of slow scrambling. Total RT time: 6 hours to the parking lot.

Crampons and ice axe are required due the presence of hard/soft snow on Illiniza Norte.
Posted Aug 20, 2008 11:02 am

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2008

Boriss Andean

My Canadian friends, Alan, Marie Michéle, Marie Héléne, and I along with Romy (Austria) started climbing at 6:15 am after spending the night in the refuge. The scrambling to the top started by the ridge above the normal route. We reached the first summit (Pico Villavicencio) pretty fast and then continued on by the normal route which featured a few sections of hard snow as we gained altitude.

Got to the top (5,126 m/16,818 ft) after 1 hour and 45 minutes of scrambling. It was great being up there with my three French Canadian friends, two germans and Jacobo (ecuadorian mountain guide).
Posted Aug 10, 2008 5:10 pm

HeyItsBenRuta Normal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2008


Whew! Thought I'd be fine after Gagua and Corazon, but I sure felt the altitude on this one. Maybe the exposure was getting to me, the weather was horrible, and some iced over sections made the scrambling exhilirating, especially the "death pass". Still made the top, came down the sandslide.
Posted Jul 31, 2008 5:52 pm

DrewBFun  Sucess!


A great day and a fun, solo ascent. I still need to go back and do Sur. Hopefully there will still be some snow left in Ecuador.
Posted Jul 8, 2008 1:07 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2007

Boriss Andean

Climbed it with Heloise and Mathilde (FRA) right after climbing Illiniza Sur the very same day. Two peaks in one day!

The scrambling to the summit was easy even though there was soft snow on the last steps near the summit.

Illiniza Norte. 5,126 m. (16,818 ft).
Posted Feb 18, 2008 8:13 pm

ericdA Snowy Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 9, 2008


3hrs & 2,300' to base camp refuge. Spent the night at 15,200' ...sleeping was interesting. 6am departure up saddle, along ridgeline, and through "Pass of Death". 1,700' elevation gain and 3 hours later saw the iron cross on summit!
Posted Jan 16, 2008 4:15 pm

leftyNorth Face Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 7, 2008


I heavy snow fall the night before made this a better choice for a day hike than the normal route. This route bypasses the Pass of Death and had a nice snow climb near the top.
Posted Jan 16, 2008 12:58 am

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 7, 2001

Boriss Andean

Can't remember how many times I've been on its summit but this is one of them.

Climbed it with Markus (Austria) and Bart (Holland). Easy hike and scrambling to the summit. Perfect day and views of the other mountains and volcanoes.

Illiniza Norte. 5,126 m. (16,818 ft).
Posted Sep 26, 2007 11:54 pm

pkrebsNormal Route
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2006


Great views of Sur and Cotopaxi.
Posted Aug 20, 2007 7:01 pm

HalikuNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2007


Some snow made for an interesting climb. Nothing too major as we didn´t need an axe. Great views of Sur and Cotopaxi. Climbed with Bill562 and Axe. Take a tent instead of staying in the hut. Unless you like the smell of kerosene....
Posted Jul 10, 2007 9:08 pm

Bill562Norte  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2007


Climbed with Haliku and Tim (Axe). Hut is a bit dirty and smells of kerosene, but the climb was enjoyable and weather great. Only one other party at the hut the night we were there, but crowds were arriving as we were hiking back ...
Posted Jul 10, 2007 8:10 pm

oo09nj76t5Acclimatization Run  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2006


Interesting climb in the rain and fog. Probably should have turned around. Didn't. Almost paid for it. Learned.
Posted May 10, 2007 2:25 am

Jessica LThis isn't waterproof!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 25, 2006
The route was fun, but the weather was not. It was much colder than I expected with constant rain/sleet and about 10' of visibility. The conditions made it difficult to descend and my guide and I roped up. I also confirmed that my waterproof jacket is, at best, "drizzle-proof"
Posted Apr 14, 2007 11:58 pm

maraudersStandard Route: Jan 10, 2007  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2007


Snowed two inches overnight which made the more exposed sections of the rock scramble a bit interesting, but overall is was easy terrain and a fun rock scramble with beautiful views. No rope necessary on the 5.3 section. I found the climbing to be a bit easier than what I think of as 5.3. We downclimbed the same section with no rope. Sunny in the morning, clouds rolled in around 10am. The hike to the hut, and the night at the hut, was the crux for me. The approach hike goes on forever and the hut is small, dirty, musty and dark. Get there early to the hut or you'll get stuck sleeping on this nasty loft with no leg room. I learned the hard way! What a night!

We didn't take a guide on this mountain, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend that decision with the snow we encountered. The traverse onto the north face and the subsequent 5.3 climb up to the summit is hard to see without prior knowledge of the route. We followed a distance behind another 3 man group with prior knowledge of the route which took the dangerous guess work out of the equation. Without that third-party guidance, we would have waisted a lot of time hunting for the right path with steep slopes, snow and exposure. We were fortunate.
Posted Jan 22, 2007 6:15 pm

Date Climbed: Jan 8, 2007


We didn't make the summit so I shouldn't sign, but it was such a trial to get here that I am going to sign anyway.

I contracted a serious bout of food poisoning on the way down and at the Houston Airport (USA) on January 4. I was sick on the plane and the next day we were supposed to climb Pichincha. I was so weak that I could only make 135 meters/440 feet on the peak.

The next day we were supposed to go to Iliniza Hut. I was so sick that I couldn't make that either and only made it 2/3 of the way before collapsing and wrenching over. I had to return down the mountain and got sicker as I descended. Luckily we saw two condors; the good news of the day.

On January 7, I was finally feeling better, but not as well as normal. We climbed to the hut that day. Unfortunately on the 8th we were actually supposed to climb Sur, but I wasn't up to it and my wife wasn't feeling great either. We missed our acclimatization days at the beginning of the trip.

On January 8 I was better and we set off for Norte, but my wife wasn't feeling up to doing the Paso de la Muerte so we turned around there at 5060 meters/16,601 feet; 56 meters/184 feet from the summit.

What an ordeal. I sure was disappointed for never getting a crack at Sur. We were out of time and it was time to head to Cotopaxi. Luckily I was better after Iliniza.

Don't eat tacos in the Houston Airport!
Posted Jan 22, 2007 5:02 am

tjbst47iliniza norte  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 27, 2006


I believe that the second peak is from the hut is higher that the peak with the cross. The guides say that the peak with the cross is higher probably because getting to the next peak requires some exposed fifth class at high altitude. However, the altimeter says otherwise.
Posted Dec 31, 2006 7:27 pm

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