Welcome to SP!  -
Innerkofler Route (Cima Ovest di Lavaredo)

Innerkofler Route (Cima Ovest di Lavaredo)

  Featured on the Front Page
Innerkofler Route (Cima Ovest di Lavaredo)

Page Type: Route

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.61872°N / 12.29319°E

Object Title: Innerkofler Route (Cima Ovest di Lavaredo)

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: AD, UIAA IV

Route Quality: 
 - 5 Votes


Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: May 11, 2012 / Oct 22, 2016

Object ID: 789434

Hits: 5993 

Page Score: 94.24%  - 46 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote



Geographical classification: Alps - Eastern Part > Dolomites > Tre Cime di Lavaredo >Innerkofler Route-Cima Ovest di Lavaredo

Innerkofler Route or Normal Route (Cima Ovest di Lavaredo)

A long trip on the tracks of the pioneers.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo just represent the Dolomites’ symbol: a world famous and celebrated scenery, well known also by the simple tourists. Innerkofler route is the normal way to reach one of this superb peaks: a complex trip on a historic route, the first one realized in 1879 on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by the great Alpine Guide Michel Innerkofler, with his pal G. Ploner, who found a relatively easy way to reach this magnificent and impressive summit with masterly intuition. As a matter of fact the climb develops itself on an easy ground among most difficult and severe walls, giving a strong and unforgettable sensation of a logical way to be followed to reach a very important summit. More than a century after the first ascent this route is still a quite profitable destination in a wonderful setting.

Lavaredo Group from South
Lavaredo Group from South

Tre Cime di Lavaredo Group - “Tré Thime” in ladin dialect, “Drei Zinnen” in German - is located in a secluded situation on the boundary ridge between Bolzano Province on the North side and Belluno Province on the South side. During the WWI Tre Cime di Lavaredo were situated on the war’s front between Austrian and Italian troops; several military ruins are still visible inside the massif and particularly on Monte Paterno.

Lavaredo South Faces seen from Pala di Punta Ellie
Lavaredo South faces from Pala di Punta Ellie

A detail of Cima Ovest and Cima Grande di Lavaredo from South
A detail of Lavaredo from South


Michel Innerkofler from Sesto
Michel Innerkofler
Summit ridge
Innerkofler Route summit ridge

Michel Innerkofler (1848-1888) was a famous Alpine Guide from Sesto in Pustertal, a resolute conqueror of Dolomites’ difficult summits. Head of a family of famous guides and one of the strongest mountaineers of his era, he counts many important climbs in Eastern Dolomites in addition to Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, as Croda dei Toni, Cima Piccola di Lavaredo, Cristallo North Face and Croda da Lago.

Getting there

Road access

The best starting point is Misurina m. 1752, a small village lying on the shores of the homonym lake, which can be approached from Trento or Bolzano (Adige Valley) following the Brennero Motorway - exit Bressanone - and then taking Val Pusteria as far as Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right the road to Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin mt. 1432 and Misurina. The Lavaredo group can be approached also from Belluno via Longarone, Cortina d’Ampezzo and Tre Croci Pass.
From Misurina a private toll–road leads to Auronzo Hut m. 2330, situated at the road’s end in an amazing position below Tre Cime di Lavaredo South faces. Parking.

Walking approach

From Auronzo Hut m. 2320 reach the highest parking, where a good path starts, following the water pipeline and skirting Cima Ovest foreparts. The trail is quickly getting to the third scree gully, situated between Cima Ovest on the left and Cima Grande on the right, and rising steeply towards Forcella della Cima Grande, a characteristic saddle showing a great war’s cave, where a superb view on Tre Scarperi group is appearing. About 10 meters before getting to the saddle follow on the left-hand side a scree gully. Starting point. (0,50 minutes from Auronzo Hut).

Innerkofler Route report

Innerkofler route upper part topo
Innerkofler route topo
An abseil on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
First abseil along the crux crack
First fine white wall, Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
The first fine white wall

Innerkofler Route or Normal Route report

Summit altitude: m. 2973
AD, UIAA II and III, max IV (crux)
Climbing length: 650 m.
Equipment: a few pegs along the pitches, various equipped belays and abseils’anchors
Exposure: S and W
First ascent: Michel Innerkofler – G. Ploner 1879, august 28th
Starting point: Misurina (BL) m. 1752
Huts: Auronzo Hut m. 2330

A fine route on good rock leading to a superb and panoramic summit. It’s convenient to climb roped up only six pitches, as a matter of fact the route’s remaining part can be climbed loose or proceeding “tight rope”.

Starting point about 10 meters before getting to Forcella della Cima Grande (orange marks), below an obvious scree gully.
Climb the gully, dividing itself into three branches after about 70 m.; follow the left one, leading to a scree terrace, slanting towards left below the peak’s South face. Climb a rocky gully (II), then rise along a trail leading towards a fine white wall with very good holds. Follow it with pleasant climb (II, III), then head towards right along a small ledge, reaching the main gully (II) some meters below the saddle between Cima Ovest and its South forepart named Croda degli Alpini. A steep wall can be climbed along a fine chimney (III) leading to the great ring-like ledge, a non-stop ledge which surrounds East, South and West sides and a North face’s part. Follow the ledge towards left (West) by walking an after about 120 meters, nearby a white block, begin climbing up again, at first directly, then heading towards left and in the end traversing again towards right (cat’s move, III). Climb a small chimney (III-), then some steps slanting towards right (II), reaching a dark ledge. Follow it towards right, climb a steep little wall (III), then traverse right reaching a new chimney. Climb it to a narrow saddle; from here climb a steep wall (IV, crux) leading to the summit ridge. Easier rocks lead to a steep but short wall; climb it (III+), then skirt two detached needles on the left-hand side getting finally to the beautiful summit (cross and summit book). A breathtaking view towards Cima Grande dark and overhanging North face is appearing.

Descent: following the same route, mainly climbing and abseiling in the crux pitches (abseils anchors in place)

Essential gear

Ropes 1x60, helmet, some friends and slings, some quickdraws.


Rifugio Auronzo
m. 2330
- Forcella Longeres (CAI Sez. Auronzo)

Other huts in Lavaredo Group:

Rifugio Locatelli Innerkofler m. 2450

Rifugio Lavaredo

When to climb

Normally the best period goes from middle June to middle September.

Red tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing; all the group is situated inside Northern Dolomites Area, one of the Dolomites’ nine areas admitted in the year 2009 in the list of Unesco Natural Sites.
More info about Dolomiti Unesco World Heritage:

Dolomites living mountains

Dolomiti Unesco




ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and Maps

Tre Cime di Lavaredo map

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi
Athesia Editore
“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi – Idea Montagna Editore

“Dolomiti Orientali” Vol. I Parte II by Antonio Berti – Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI

Map: Tabacco n. 010 – Dolomiti di Sesto 1:25.000


Tre Cime di Lavaredo South sideA detail of Cima Ovest and Cima Grande di Lavaredo from SouthTre Cime di Lavaredo from Torre Pian dei BuoiLavaredo South Faces seen from Pala di Punta EllieCima Grande di Lavaredo from Cima OvestLavaredo Cima Grande and Cima Ovest at duskLavaredo Cima Ovest, Cima Grande and Piccola seen from Pala di Punta Ellie
First fine white wall, Cima Ovest di LavaredoSummit ridge Cima Ovest and Cima Grande di Lavaredo south sidesMichel Innerkofler from SestoTre Cime di Lavaredo Group from Torre Pian dei Buoi, Marmarole, Eastern DolomitesCrodon di San Candido and Locatelli Hut from Forcella della GrandeCima Grande seen from Cima Ovest summit
[ View Gallery - 21 More Images ]