Approach
Approach from Garnet Canyon Trail, from Lupine Meadows trailhead. Can be done car-to-car in a day. The hike in to base of the climb is 2-3 hours, depending on party. Locate the base of the climb on the striking arete just below Petzoldt's Caves. A narrow climbers' trail heads up far left of the arete's base. Traverse the path along the base of the huge rock fin that culminates at the arete. Scramble up to a flat pedestal on the left side of the arete. Belay the first pitch from here.
Route Description
This phenomnenal route mostly climbs the right side of the arete, with a few short exceptions. The 5.10a crux pitch is airy and absolutely thrilling, but can be avoided by traversing right at from the block and climbing the face above (5.7).
I'LL GET BACK TO THIS SECTION WITH MORE DETAILED ROUTE INFO SOON.
Essential Gear
Standard rack of nuts and cams to 3". Extra 1" and 2" cams helpful, though not necessary. A dozen slings/runners is sufficient.
Miscellaneous Info
Descent: AVOID the first gully as you travel left from the top of the climb. It is a loose, bowling alley nightmare of a gully. Continue on to the second gully; rap or downclimb here. Don't start this climb too late in the day (as I did; see my TR), as afternoon thunderstorms are very common in the Tetons!
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