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Juniper Snag

Juniper Snag

Juniper Snag

Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Object Title: Juniper Snag

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.6 R

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: rpc

Created/Edited: Apr 14, 2004 / Oct 13, 2004

Object ID: 160710

Hits: 3102 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Follow the directions on the main page to reach the base of Staender Ridge (i.e. east side of Adit Rock). Hike uphill along the faint climbers' trail on the east side of the formations to the notch above Bette's Needles and below Flattop formations. Cross over to the west side and scramble down about 100 feet following the western base of Bette's Needles. There's a large, dead juniper tree at the start of this route. The route itself starts up a 12-15 foot slab (5.6) to reach a large sandy ledge above. See photos for additional details.

Probably the only reason to climb this route is to reach the nice little summit.

Route Description

The route reaches the top of Bette's Needles in two runout pitches. According to the book, this route is the cleanest and the most solid of all routes on this formation. That really doesn't say very good things about other routes.

Pitch 1: 5.6R, 50-60 feet. From the dead juniper tree at the base, climb up about 15 feet of unprotected slab to reach a large sandy ledge. On top of the ledge, move left to the base of a short (c. 25 foot), outwardly flaring chimney. I was able to put one piece of pro low in the chimney (a 0.75 Camalot in a flaring groove - this was the only piece of pro on this pitch). Grunt your way up the awkward chimney and top out on another sandy ledge above. Belay on gear.

Pitch 2: 5.5R, 60-70 feet. From the belay ledge, enter the low angle gully and walk to where it terminates with a steep chimney - double crack system. Work your way up this chimney (again about 25 feet of chimney or so). The chimney is very loose! Use caution. Pro opportunities seem to exist but I wouldn't count on any of it to hold a fall (loose rock!). Curse your way up the chimney topping out just below the south side of the summit spires. Move up to the notch between the two spires (large cam) and top out on the left one (tallest point).

Descent: Two single rope raps off of good bolted anchors bring you to the NW base of the rock.

Essential Gear

HELMETS! Some cams, specifically I recall using a 0.75, 1, 2, and 3.5 inch Camalots. Rap slings/rings to replace old ones if necessary.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Bette\'s Needles as seen from...Shirley leading pitch two of...Top of the slab at the...Leading pitch two of Juniper...