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North Ramp Variation

North Ramp Variation

North Ramp Variation

Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Object Title: North Ramp Variation

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.0 (YDS)

Difficulty: Technical Rock

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 0 Votes


Page By: Brian Jenkins

Created/Edited: May 12, 2006 / May 17, 2006

Object ID: 193511

Hits: 2822 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Surprisingly, at 5.0, this is not even the easiest route to the summit of The Mole, the 4th rock tower from the bottom of Staender Ridge. There is a 4th class route to its right for that. Regardless, this is a simple romp up pretty good rock. There is a good crack to protect, nice holds and ledges and great views from the top.

Getting There

See the Main Page for Staender Ridge for how to get here. Once you are on the ridge, hike up to the 4th tower and go to the saddle between the north side of The Mole and the south side of Bette's Needles. You can access this from either side.

Route Description

Start just to the east of the large boulder at the base of the north side of The Mole. Follow the shallow groove up the flaring crack. Holds are abundant. The rock is red and black here. Gear to 3 inches. Super easy and a definite confidence-builder. There is a bolt to anchor yourself into a few feet from the anchors. Makes is nice and easy. Rappel the route.

Essential Gear

Gear to 3 inches. I used only cams on this one and not that many.


I\'m belaying Brian...Brian Jenkins...