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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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38.20000°N / 75.10000°E |
Route Type:
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Snow ridge with few rock parts |
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Time Required:
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A few days |
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Difficulty:
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Walk up with rope |
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Approach
From Kashgar to Muztagh Ata BC.Route Description
On 24 of August 2005 Valery Shamalo and Alexey Gorbatenkov climbed probably the new route on Muztagh Ata from Kalaxong glacier through the West ridge.The route starts from the Col between Kalaxong and Koskulak peaks. Altitude of the Col is apprx. 6100m. It took us one day to reach the Col from Muztagh Ata BC as we already were in a good shape.
Route does not have difficult technical challenges.
We've spent three overnights:
- on the Col,
- on the altitude approximately 6800
- on the altitude approximately 7200
The biggest problem we had during summit turn was rather cold weather with strong wind, as it seems, autumn already had started at the moment.
During the climb we also had an idea to reach Kalaxong summit, but turned directly to Muztagh Ata, as it could be too exhausting to climb both in one day. Same day 24th of August we descend down to the BC.
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Essential Gear
We had ice axes, ski poles, one thin rope, crampons. |  |  |
Alexei Gorbatenkov - Oct 18, 2005 5:29 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentOn 4 of September 2005 Kalaxong Peak was climbed by three Russians (Kagan Vlad, Chijik Dmitry, Yudin Petr), memebers of Moscow tourist club MAI. It was a team, headed by Andrey Lebedev. They climbed both Kalaxong and Muztagh ata summits through the West Kalaxong ridge.