ApproachFrom Kashgar to Muztagh Ata BC.
Route DescriptionOn 24 of August 2005 Valery Shamalo and Alexey Gorbatenkov climbed probably the new route on Muztagh Ata from Kalaxong glacier through the West ridge.
The route starts from the Col between Kalaxong and Koskulak peaks. Altitude of the Col is apprx. 6100m. It took us one day to reach the Col from Muztagh Ata BC as we already were in a good shape.
Route does not have difficult technical challenges.
We've spent three overnights:
- on the Col,
- on the altitude approximately 6800
- on the altitude approximately 7200
The biggest problem we had during summit turn was rather cold weather with strong wind, as it seems, autumn already had started at the moment.
During the climb we also had an idea to reach Kalaxong summit, but turned directly to Muztagh Ata, as it could be too exhausting to climb both in one day. Same day 24th of August we descend down to the BC.
Essential GearWe had ice axes, ski poles, one thin rope, crampons.
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