Key’s Point, 5.6-5.10a

Overview/Approach

Key’s Point is an obscure destination nestled among jumbled rock outcroppings high above the desert floor to the east of Boy Scout Trail  before it turns west at Ellsmere and Gilligan’s Islands.  It sits high upon the hill behind a popular easy crag known as Outward Bound Slab.  It is not far or difficult to reach, but once you get beyond a mile off the road and require a bit of hiking up hill (500’+/- elevation gain) you lose suburban climbing crowds in Jtree in a hurry.  Two nearby features, Convenience Store and Looking Glass, have some decent 5.10 trad climbs to combine with Key's Point making for a full day up in this area. 

Key’s Point does not have any outstanding routes, particularly from a trad perspective, but there is one unique two bolt (50’) sport climb named Super Key, 5.9*.  It is unique in that it features the deepest plated granite I have ever climbed, up a darkly varnished arête.  By deeply plated, I mean the cylinder block like seams create deep finger pockets.  I have seen this phenomena in sandstone more than granite.  Puss Boy, 5.10a*, is another fun bolted climb, but short.  Not a whole lot more of interest on Key’s Point, but on the hike up, Big Gulp, 5.10a*, on Convenience Store is fun and Through the Looking Glass, 5.10a*, and Fracture Dynamics, 5.10d**,  on Looking Glass, located behind Key’s Point, are quality tall routes to combine with anything you do at Key’s for a full day of climbing.

Park at the Boy Scout trailhead and hike to the base of Outward Bound Slab, a popular destination for beginners and guided groups.  It is located via a right turn off the trail when you essentially reach the first T-intersection.  Pass Outward Bound on your left and continue through the vegetated valley heading east.  Key’s Point comes into view high up on the left side.   Once you get to the second rocky drainage/gully on your left, ascend the boulder field utilizing the right fork.  Soon you can make out the splitter crack (Big Gulp) on a short feature up on the right.  This is the formation named Convenience Store.  Key’s Point is in clear view to the west, just 20 minutes away at most.  Looking Glass is located north, up and over the col on the right side of Key’s Point. It face north.

Routes Listed Right to Left, on Approach, East to West, South Facing Wall

Cheap Earthenware- 50’-5.9/

Steeper Than it Looks- 70’-5.7*/ On the right side of the main formation, south facing. This is a solid trad lead for the aspiring leader at the grade.  A nice splitter that weaves back and forth to the final face which sports a pro bolt.  The crack itself is sustained at the grade, the finish is below grade.  The crux is entering the crack.  Climb up left and traverse right via an exposed horizontal on jugs, below grade, but the rock is not the best through here.  Layback up into the finger splitter with positive features the whole way.  Medium to small gear belay/top rope.  Scramble down to the west. Single to #2.  Dow

Puss Boy- 40’-5.10a*/ Fully bolted route (guide has it as mixed), southeast facing, on the right side of the well varnished part of the formation to the west of the broader south face.  Three bolts vs four as the guide suggests, and 40’ vs 50’.  A one move wonder at the grade, after the 2nd clip.  I call it a sideways mantle off a knob, kind of cool.  Fixed rap atop the route.  Dow

Key Knob- 50’-5.6*/ No pro bolt as the guide suggests, rather sling knobs for pro.  Easy and secure solo at the grade.  Contrived route not worth its recommendation (*) in the guide.  Start left on chossy rock and angle up and right to Puss Boy’s rap anchor.  Solo or long slings for knobs.  Dow

Super Key- 50’-5.9*/ To the left of the face with Puss Boy.  This route has its own plated patina wall.  Listed as a sport route at 35’, but is at least 50’ to the fixed anchor atop the chimney atop the route.  The two bolts protect climbing at the grade.  You could place some gear in the pockets if you wanted to supplement.  Cool, deeply plated, but somewhat fragile, face climbing with positive finger pockets.  It steepens at the 2nd bolt for a few moves at the grade and then eases way up to the base of a chimney. Stem up the chimney to the fixed rap on the right wall.  Two draws.  Dow