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1893 Hits
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80.49% Score
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12 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.42887°N / 7.24697°E |
Season:
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Spring, Summer |
Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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6a (French scale) |
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Number of Pitches:
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7 |
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Overview
King Line
Rocca Castello 2452 m is a fine rocky peak belonging to the Castello-Provenzale Group. It's the Northernmost summit and the highest one of the group, overcoming the nearby Torre Castello for a few meter. Rocca Castello is located between Colle Greguri 2319 m, a wide grassy saddle in the Northern side, and Forcella Castello 2420. Rocca Castello shows an high-quality orange and grey quartzite with several cracks suited for use natural protections.
Getting There
From the town of Cuneo take the Val Maira road and drive along the whole valley as far as Chiappera, a hamlet of Acceglio. At the crossroads to the Campo Base campsite, keep to the right and continue on the road (first paved, then dirt road) which leads to the Grange Collet. There are two possibilities:
A. Park the car in a parking lot on the right along the road and take the path that skirting the East side of the Castello-Provenzale group leading to the Colle Greguri (1 hour).
B. Alternatively continue driving along the dirt road until the Grange Collet, park in an open space and from here take the path to the right crossing a stream and rising to the Colle Greguri (40 minutes).
Route Description
King Line report (French scale)
Summit altitude: 2452 m
Difficulty: TD, 6a mx (5c obbl.)
Equipment: bolts, stops with two stainless steel rings to be connected
Climbing length: 250 m
Exposure: East
First ascent: Danilo Collino & C. may 2011
Starting point: Chiappera 1614 m (upper Valle Maira)
A beautiful line, the most direct route to the top of the Rocca Castello, which offers an attractive climbing on excellent quartzite on slabs and dihedrals.
The route is located between the routes "Giglio Farneticante" and Rinaudo. The starting point is located 10 m to the left of the Via Rinaudo. There is a cairn at the base.
L1 - 5c Climb vertically on slabs overcoming a small slight overhang with a thin crack up to belay
L2 - 5b Overcome a small dihedral and then on slabs up to the belay
L3 - 5b Delicate start, then climb up the large spike until stopping on the left (at the base of the spike the route crosses the via Rinaudo coming to the right)
L4 - 5c Climb the compact slab up to the next dihedral with clear holds and then along an easy dihedral up to the belay
L5 - 5a An easy pitch on dihedrals with a move near a belay of the route Rinaudo. 10 m higher there is the belay
L6 - 5c Overcome the obvious crack and then climb the compact black slab with delicate movements on small notches. Stop to the left on the edge
L7 - 6a Climb vertically up to the summit and then overcome a delicate move up to the cross.
Descent: abseiling on the same route (from S7 50 m, S5 40 m, S4 60 m, S2 60 m). Alternatively, you can use the descents of the East diagonal channel, the Balzola or Solo per Bruna
Essential Gear
Rope 2x60 m, 10 quickdraws and some medium-small friends to integrate the protection.
Red Tape
No fees no permits required
When to climb
Best season goes from May to the end of September
Accomodation
Different kind of accomodation in Acceglio. In Chiappera there is also a refuge with a campsite: Rifugio Campo Base
Meteo
Guidebooks and maps
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- Guidebooks
"Il Gruppo Castello-Provenzale"
"Monte Viso - Alpi Cozie Meridionali" by Michelangelo Romano - Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI
- Maps
IGC n.7 Valli Maira Grana e Stura 1:50000