Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.78260°N / 8.57060°E |
Route Type:
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Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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V-, a0 |
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Approach
This climb is probably the most interesting ascent of Krönten during summer time. You should start from south, i.e. from the Leutschach hut which is described in the main section. I would like to add, that the cable car from Intschi (650m) to Arni (1670m) runs all night long, automatically by inserting Swiss money into ticket machine. From the Leuchtschach hut, follow the horizontal path into the main valley. Then climb the Leitschachfirn and reach the lowest point of the horizon. On this excellent Photo you see the whole trip climbing from left and descending on the snow on the right.. 2 hours from the hut.
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Route Description
From the little pass, climb 10 m, then on ledge a few meters to the left.Then along a cleft 30 meters up (the guide is not quite correct!), then to right, another perpenicular cleft (25 m). Do not change the side as the guide says. Continue the climb on the same side until it becomes easy and you reach a horitontal ledge. From its middle continue to climb and finally reach the ridge that leads easily to the top of Südturm. Then climb down to the saddle between Südturm and Krönte.
Continue the climb on the right, then up to a terrace near a cave. From there to the summit, it is easy and you do not need the rope anymore.
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Essential Gear
30-40 m rope, carabine. No rappel. Excellent rock climbing in Erstfeld gneis.
Descent usually the normal route (snow fields below east ridge) back to the Leitschach hut. Part of the descent takes place in snow. It is possible that you will encounter ice or hard snow. In this case crampons and an ice screw might be helpful. A small axe is mandatory for descent to Leutschach hut.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.