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Kuffner Pillar on East Summit

Kuffner Pillar on East Summit

Kuffner Pillar on East Summit

Page Type: Route

Location: Engadin, Italy/Switzerland, Europe

Object Title: Kuffner Pillar on East Summit

Route Type: Rock/Ice climb

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: III° rock,45-50° ice

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes


Page By: fabrizior

Created/Edited: Jan 21, 2004 / Jan 21, 2004

Object ID: 159880

Hits: 6946 

Page Score: 76.15%  - 7 Votes 

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The more suitable is the Diavolezza hut.

Route Description

The Kuffner route on the East summit of Piz Palù lies on the north buttress and is the easiest out the 3 north pillars: Kuffner from E summit, Bumiller from Central summit and Zippert from West summit.

If the conditions of the pillar are good the climb isn't difficult and you enjoy one of the best climb on Bernina Group.

From the Diavolezza hut follow the track to South of normal route on snow/ice fields (huge crevasses) for about 1,5 hours, then turn right to the flat plateau at the base of NE couloir of E summit ( dangerous ice fall ).
Reach the beginning of the rock spur at the more suitable point according to the mountain conditions.
Follow the rocky ridge (verglas) for about 2/3 of the pillar until you reach the last 1/3 of the route on snow/ice ridge 45/50° up to the summit.
For the pillar itself it took about 3,5 hours.
Having summited the East point we reached also the Central Summit by the easy snow ridge between the two summits.
The retour vie the normal route to Diavolezza hut.

Essential Gear

Crampons and ice axe.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


On the summit ridgeThe North Face of Piz PalüLooking to the true summit.Julius Zonneveld On KuffnerOn the fantastic snow areteJosef on the ice ridgeDescending from the West Summit
The three ridgesPiz Palü from the Pers GlacierTiny men and womenfolk on the Pers GlacierOn the OstpfeilerNear the finish...The first part of the...Parties on the ridge...
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