Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.37092°N / 13.52506°E |
Route Type:
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Sport Climbing |
Season:
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Fall |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.10b (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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Medium |
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Number of Pitches:
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5 |
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Grade:
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II |
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Overview
La Grande (The Big One), is one of the historical multi-pitch routes in val Rosandra.It was first climbed by the great Emilio Comici.
it goes up the rocky face of mount Stena, on the North-Eastern side of the valley, and ends near the Karst plateau, making it evident tht you are not climbing up to a summit, but rather, out of a canyon.
The route is very fun, and challenging to a mid level climber.
It is never monotonous, as climbing is done on a great variety of differend kinds of formations, from slabs, to overhangs, to exposed vertical passages and dyhedrals.
La grande lets you imagine what it must have been like to climb these rocks 70 or 80 years ago, with such different gear from the one we use today. This route reaches difficulties of grade VI UIAA, the famous level that was thought impossible and climbed for the first time in Italy by Emilio Comici, a climber that, by the way, was from Trieste.
Getting There
You can park the car in the village of Hrvati, and then continue by foot along the road that is closed to traffic, until you reach a gravel road that lies on the path the train used to take. on this road you will find a small house, once used by the railway.continue on this wide gravel road for a few minutes. You will see a trail going up on your left. You must pass it, and take the next one you see. This trail will stop just a few meters into the bushes, right under the wall. On your left you will see the entrance to a cave, and on your right you should be able to spot the first anchors of the route.
There are many other ways to get there, but the one described here is the most direct. Obviously though it's a great idea to explore new and different ways to get to the route.
Route Description
The trace of the routeI pitch
25 meters 3c
An easy warmup. A dyhedral, and a vertical wall will take you to a slab where you will find belay anchors.
II pitch
25 meters 3a
A bit of climbing and a bit of walking and scrambling, following the anchors will take you to the beginning of the third pitch.
it is also possible to walk directly past there first pitches and go straight to the third, by taking a trail that is to the left of the base of the route.
III pitch
15 meters 5b
An inclined slab that offers few good holds and precise footwork will take you to the belay anchors, just under an overhanging roof that is the crux of the route.
IV pitch
30 meters 5c
starting to the left of the anchors, you will have to climb the overhang and then go up a long dyhedral that will take you to the belay anchors.
V pitch
35 meters 5a
after a few meters you find a smooth slab, and you will see a chain for rappelling or belaying. Ignore it and continue to the left, into a small dyhedral. after a few meters a last crack will take you to a grassy terrace where you will find various anchors and a chain to belay and rappel.
You can rappel down following the climbing route, or take a trail that should come down on the left of the route (i rappelled, so i can't be sure about the exact position of the trail).
Some points, especially on the fourth pitch, might have some lose rocks. Be careful.
The route is well protected with new anchors, and some old pitons.
Essential Gear
Basic climbing gear, helmet, 12 quickdraws, slings and carabiners to belay.