Landfill Wall (The Dark Side), 5.8-5.12c

Overview

The first developed wall south of Sex Canyon (actually, it is the only wall on the south side of the canyon) and less than 10 minutes from the parking area, and with a pair of nice 5.8's, including one of the best 5.8 routes at Reimers, Landfill Wall, one would think, would always be crowded, but I have never seen it so. Perhaps this is because it always seems damp, maybe because there is shade most of the day and the big overhangs that characterize much of the wall block out much of the sunlight that does hit this north-facing wall.

 

 

Landfill Wall

Landfill Wall

Landfill Wall

 

Getting There

Reimers Ranch is located off Hamilton Pool Road about 6 miles west of its intersection with Ranch Road 12. It is about 45 minutes west from downtown Austin.

 

Once through the entrance station, drive about 1.8 mi and turn left into a large parking area signed for a pavilion and for climbing access. A sign points the way to "Climbers Canyon." Hike the trail and then drop into the top of the "canyon" where a spring creates a stream that soon empties into the Pedernales River. This stream includes a waterfall and some deep pools that are great places to cool off after climbing on a hot day.

 

Hike by or through the stream until a trail becomes apparent. The trail through Sex Canyon (very slick in some spots) splits a number of times. You want the first split that takes you left across the creek (see picture).

Spur to Cross the Stream

Now look for the first spur to the left and take it. It leads to an easily seen slab and then to a big tufa that is the start of Jugfest. You're at the right end of the wall.

To Landfill Wall

Slab Before Landfill Wall

 

Routes

Names and grades come from Austin Climbing: Sport Routes & Deep Water Solos by John Hogge.

 

From left to right as you face the wall:

• Pika Peak, 5.10
• Dos Vatos, 5.10d
• Slopeamine, 5.11d
• Heathers, 5.11c
• Monkey Pajamas, 5.10a PG
• Tapeworm, 5.9+
• Little White Trash Boy, 5.10c
• Hanging Gardens, 5.12
• Sometimes I'm Dreamin', 5.11d
• Get Yer Fill, 5.12c
• J.P. Court, 5.12a
• Jugfest (aka No More Tears), 5.8-- I think I've done every Reimers 5.8 now, and this is one of the three coolest, I think, if for no other reason than the fact that it starts on a big tufa.
• Hidden Pockets, 5.8 R-- The R refers to the runout between Bolts 2 and 3, but the climbing is more like 5.6 there.

Jugfest Start	Jugfest Finish
Hidden Pockets Start	Hidden Pockets Finish