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Lilly's delight, 5.7
Route

Lilly's delight, 5.7

 

Page Type: Route

Object Title: Lilly's delight, 5.7

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Route Quality: 
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Page By: jmc

Created/Edited: May 31, 2009 / Jun 7, 2009

Object ID: 517415

Hits: 2114 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Lilly's delight

Climb up under an overhang, once in under the overhang, turn and face out. You have to climb around onto the face.
 
Defeat, Empathy and Lillys
Lilly's delight is in blue on the right

From the ground facing the wall you will be moving left, when you get up under there and turn around you will be going right. Place your first cam up over your head, 1.25 or 1.5" this will protect the crux move. If your hand is the right size, reach up with you right hand and jamb it in the overhead crack. You will need to push your back into the rock to get your feet up high enough, then using just that hand and a few very small knobs for your feet move around onto the face. For me, I don't have the correct size hand, I can't get my whole hand up into the crack, especially with the cam in place, large hands make it tougher.

Once you get out onto the face you can get a good hand into the crack and the feet are decent, you can place a second cam up as high as you can reach, 2".

Now with solid protection it is much easier, move on up the crack to the rap rings on a big ledge. Those two pieces are all most people will need.

If you do this climb several times you will agree with the 5.7 rating, but be warned, the move around onto the face is the crux and it is very awkward. The route above and below is very straight forward. Most people struggle with the crux move the first time or two that they do it. It may seem much harder the first time and is not well protected.

There are rap rings up on top of the big ledge quite a ways back, these are shared with to two other climbs, Empathy and Master of De-Feet
 
Lilly s delight
Sherman coming out from under the overhang. At this point his right hand should be jambed into the crack overhead. The look on his face tells me he is thinking, what the ****? This is 5.7?


Images

Defeat, Empathy and Lillys