OverviewThe Lookout Point crags are the little brother of the Index Town Walls. Although the longer hike (relative to the Lower and Inner Town Walls) keeps the crowds away, the area contains a surprising number of excellent climbs, including many moderates. Also unlike the Lower Town Wall, the area was never logged, meaning that a dense forest of 100+ foot tall fir trees grow right up the base of the wall; this makes the area an excellent choice for hot summer afternoons, but simultaneously drops a vast quantity of debris on to the routes, making winter and spring climbing an adventurous affair on all but the most popular lines.
ApproachTurn off of Hwy 2 onto Index-Galena Rd and then turn left over a bridge to the town of Index itself.
Unlike all the other Index crags, for Lookout Point it is actually best to park in town. On weekends there is typically space in front of the elementary school, and as long as construction is not in progress you can probably get away with parking across the street by the Bush House as well.
From wherever you park, walk toward the railroad tracks and then turn right, past a No Trespassing sign. Staying to the right of the tracks and you will soon see a small footbridge crossing the ditch, which leads to an easily discernable trail. This trail eventually forks, the right fork leading directly to Private Idaho, while the left goes up a dry streambed to more directly access Lookout Point proper and the Wall of Ten-Thousand Insects. From the far side of Private Idaho the left fork curves upward and meets the other side of Lookout Point proper, there are also a number of other subsidiary (read: obscure and dirty) cliffs farther right
The only other thing to watch for is the Rattletale Wall trail, which branches off to the left before the main fork. It is a rough climber’s path that is hard to find even when you are looking for it, so it would probably be difficult to follow it by accident, but regardless, the main fork can be identified by the mossy granite slabs above it.
RoutesThis list is by no means exhaustive, it is merely all the lines of which I can give personal account.
All routes listed left to right
The lowest and probably the most popular of the Lookout Point crags, this area has the highest concentrations of sub-5.9 climbing outside of the Great Northern Slab.
Eraserhead (5.11 ***) - Dynamic moves to a pocket give way to delicate balancy slopers, sport bolted.
Wet Dream (5.9 *) - One long lie-back with a rest stance 3/4 of the way up, often slimy, often top-roped after climbing Magic Fern.
Magic Fern (5.9 ***) - The two pitch area classic. The first pitch (5.8) opens with a techy boulder problem right off the deck and finishes with an awkward flaring, left leaning, hand crack. The second pitch (5.9) traverses left around an arête and then ascends another hand crack, a combination of lie-backing and knob climbing makes for a short, exciting pitch.
Battered Sandwich (5.9 ***) - This one is burly, bring your wide gear. No offwidth technique is actually necessary, but some knowledge of chimney climbing is helpful at the top. Rope drag on the top-out is pretty bad, I belayed from the top but I’ve seen other parties ignore the anchors completely a use a tree up the hill to the left.
Senior Citizens in Space (5.8 ***) - One of the simpler, more aesthetic, climbs at the grade at Index.
Lookout Point Proper
Directly above Private Idaho, be careful not the drop anything down the hill.
Peanuts to Serve You (5.9 ****) - Nothing but fun, only problem is it’s too short.
Purple Kool-Aid (5.10a) - Could be a good climb if it could be kept clean, we dug a shit-load of mud and foliage out of it on 4.12.14, but it would still be a nasty lead. Probably best to top-rope it from the Peanuts to Serve You anchors for the moment.
Baby Tapir (5.10d **) - Pull the mini-crux at the bolt or climb around through blocky terrain to the roof, those with small hand and finger will likely find the following moves much easier, as the jams are surprisingly insecure. Difficulties ease considerably until the bolt on the final slab.
An Act of Strange Boar (5.10d ****) - A more sustained, more direct, Slow Children without the final crux.
Rice Krispies (5.10b ***) - Thin lie-backing moves quickly give way to a massive flake, for the finish pull the roof crack moves to the right or stretch up over the knobs to the left.
Wall of Ten-Thousand Insects
Adjacent to a swamp, this crag is well named.
Index Air Force (5.10a **) - 5.8 hand crack leads to a 5.10 left-leaning finger crack and a fun traversing finish.
Them (5.9 **) - Reminiscent of the second pitch of GM, but with a harder start and a huge rail for the lie-back traverse, use long slings to avoid heinous rope drag.
ConditionsAt least some routes are typically dry enough to climb any time there are has been a couple days of sun.
The "season" typically lasts from June to October, but from February to May weather windows can and do occur.