Sierra Nevada
Overview
There aren't many climbs in Yosemite that lead to a true summit. But of those that do, the Lost Arrow Spire has to be one of the most famous and exciting of all. The Lost Arrow Tip was first climbed in 1946 by a party that used some rope tricks to rig up a tyrolean traverse, a popular way to end the climb today. The first actual climb to the top was accomplished by Yosemite pioneer John Salathe and Anton Nelson in 1946. They climbed the Lost Arrow via the Lost Arrow Chimney ( V, 5.10a ), the first grade V big wall done in the U. S. Today the Lost Arrow Tip and tyrolean traverse return are one of the classic climbs of Yosemite!
Routes on the Lost Arrow -
Lost Arrow Chimney - V, 5.10a ( to the notch ).
Lost Arrow Direct V, 5.8 - 5.11, A3.
Lost Arrow Tip and tyrolean traverse III, 5,7 - 5.10, A2- or 5.12b
Yosemite Pointless V, 5.9, A3
Note - if climbing one of the grade V routes to the Lost Arrow Notch, one must have friends fix ropes into the notch from the rim. Climbing to the rim from the notch is not reccomended! Or, there is a rappel route from the notch back to the base of the wall.
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Getting There
For the grade V routes on the Lost Arrow, one must climb Sunnyside Bench route or the talus field behind the Park Service maintenance yard and wandering up sand and brush covered slopes. See Yosemite Big Walls by Don Reid for more information.
For the classic Lost Arrow Tip, either hike up the Yosemite Falls trail or down the Hetch Hetchy trail from the Yosemite Creek campground on the Tioga Pass road. Once at the falls, follow the trail to Yosemite Point. From trees about 300 feet west of the railing, rappel about 250' into the notch.
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Red Tape
There is a park entrance fee, currently $ 20.00 per car. There are no permits or use fees required for climbing. Bivouacs on climbs in Yosemite Valley do not require a permit. Wilderness permits are required to camp at the top of Yosemite Falls if desired prior to climbing the Tip. See the Yosemite Park weblink for more information.
When To Climb
The best climbing months are May through October. Climbing can be very hot in mid summer ( July and August ) and cold earlier and later in the season.
Camping
There are numurous fee camping sites and cabins / hotel rooms available in Yosemite Valley. See links for weblinks to reservations and more information. Please note that Yosemite Valley is a very popular summer destination and reservations book up quickly and far in advance.
See the Yosemite Valley Logistics page for more info - Yosemite Logistics page
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Mountain Conditions
For current information go to http://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm
External Links
- Yosemite Area Info
General information and commercial links for the surrounding area.
- Yosemite National Park
Yosemite National Park website and in park lodging online reservations.
Additions and Corrections
[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
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| Craig Peer | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | Excellent. Thank you Bob! | |
| Posted May 12, 2003 9:20 am | ||
| Craig Peer | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | I added a link to the Yosemite Valley Logistics page which has complete camping info. Personally, I never stay in Camp 4. | |
| Posted Jul 9, 2003 11:13 am | ||
| Jack Daniels | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | There's another walk-in site in the Valley. Camp 9, aka the Backpacker's campground, is a ten minute stroll from the Ahwahnee parking lot or a five minute walk from a drop-off location in Lower Pines. Technically, you're supposed to have a wilderness permit for the next day in order to stay there. | |
| Posted Sep 23, 2003 8:03 pm | ||
| BuddhaBelly | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | Well, why don't you tell us where you like to stay? | |
| Posted Jul 29, 2005 12:41 am | ||
| HandjamMasterC | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | " Well, why don't you tell us where you like to stay? " Housekeeping Camp, or on a wall. I already have reservations for next year - I always know I'll have a site for at least 6 people. | |
| Posted Jul 29, 2005 11:41 am | ||
| BuddhaBelly | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | Can I come?? | |
| Posted Aug 3, 2005 2:14 am | ||
| Craig Peer | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | Sure. Bring two bottles of Cloud 9 Seity Zinfandel. | |
| Posted Aug 3, 2005 5:15 pm | ||
| Bob Burd | Untitled Comment | |
Voted 10/10 | There is more info on Sunnyside Bench along with a handy picture depicting the route on the Yosemite Falls route page. | |
| Posted May 11, 2003 5:07 pm | ||
| Craig Peer | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | Excellent. Thank you Bob! | |
| Posted May 12, 2003 9:20 am | ||
| Diggler | Untitled Comment | |
Voted 10/10 | While most people climbing in Yosemite will be aware of Camp 4, where it is, etc., for completeness it seems it should be mentioned in the 'camping' section (also as it's the only walk-in site in the park!). | |
| Posted Jul 9, 2003 10:03 am | ||
| Craig Peer | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | I added a link to the Yosemite Valley Logistics page which has complete camping info. Personally, I never stay in Camp 4. | |
| Posted Jul 9, 2003 11:13 am | ||
| Jack Daniels | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | There's another walk-in site in the Valley. Camp 9, aka the Backpacker's campground, is a ten minute stroll from the Ahwahnee parking lot or a five minute walk from a drop-off location in Lower Pines. Technically, you're supposed to have a wilderness permit for the next day in order to stay there. | |
| Posted Sep 23, 2003 8:03 pm | ||
| BuddhaBelly | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | Well, why don't you tell us where you like to stay? | |
| Posted Jul 29, 2005 12:41 am | ||
| HandjamMasterC | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | " Well, why don't you tell us where you like to stay? " Housekeeping Camp, or on a wall. I already have reservations for next year - I always know I'll have a site for at least 6 people. | |
| Posted Jul 29, 2005 11:41 am | ||
| BuddhaBelly | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | Can I come?? | |
| Posted Aug 3, 2005 2:14 am | ||
| Craig Peer | Untitled Comment | |
Hasn't voted | Sure. Bring two bottles of Cloud 9 Seity Zinfandel. | |
| Posted Aug 3, 2005 5:15 pm | ||
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