Lukpilla Brakk is granit tower which is located in the mountain ridge between Uzum Brakk Glacier and Biafo Glacier. Altitude of summit is rather small (for Karakoram) but from base it looks like a stunning spire. Mountain is made by two diferent types of granit. Lower part is from untypical (but solid) dark red granit, which probably gives name for the place called "Marpo" (in Balti language it means red). Higher part is from best orange "Chamonix" granit.
Very impressive is 1200 m high west face, which culminates on first from many summits. On this pinnacle lies bus sized jammed block. Someone call it "Bus Stop Summit". Second top on the summit ridge is probably main. Official elevation of mountain is 5380 m, but real may be around 5600 m.
History - First Ascents
- 1984 West face (right side) - VI, 34 pitches, 5.10 A2 (two places) - G. Rowell, J. Tackle, G. Thompson, R. Milne.
- 1987 Western edge (left side) - VI, 24 pitches (to Bus Stop Summit), 5.11 A3 - P. Powers, G. Collins.
- 1990 West face (right to left) - VI, 30 pitches, 5.11 - J. Catto, S. Wood.
Getting ThereFrom Islamabad to Skardu by air (1 h) or KKH (about 24 h). Then by jeep to last village in Braldu Valley - Askole (6 - 8 h). Here starts trek through Biafo - Hispar Glaciers. From Askole it takes 3 days to the bottom of spire. The place is called "Marpo" (red) at 4400 m.
Red TapeBiafo Glacier is in Open Zone (and Lukpilla Brakk is below 6500 m). You don't need guide or climbing permit. You need just trekking permit (or someting like this...) to cross military checkpoint in Dasu (Daso) on the half way form Skardu to Askole.
CampingJust below the spire are nice sandy places with running water.
External LinksAAJ 1985 Climbing report of Rowells route (.pdf)
AAJ 1985 Frontside (.pdf)
AAJ 1998 Climbing report of Powers-Collins route (.pdf)
AAJ 1991 Climbing report of Catto-Wood route (.pdf)