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Maladeta Massif
Area/Range

Maladeta Massif

 
Maladeta Massif

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: Huesca, Spain, Europe

Lat/Lon: 42.64240°N / 0.66340°E

Object Title: Maladeta Massif

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Big Wall, Mixed, Scrambling, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 11167 ft / 3404 m

 

Page By: Rafa Bartolome

Created/Edited: May 16, 2004 / Nov 2, 2011

Object ID: 152626

Hits: 16076 

Page Score: 87.31%  - 24 Votes 

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Overview

 
South face of Maladeta Massif...
South face
 
North face of Maladeta Massif
North face

Names: Macizo de La Maladeta, Montes Malditos.

"Montes Malditos" is the spanish expression for "Damned Mountains". According to some books this terrible-sounding name has its origin in the primitive local name for the massif: Mala hita (meaning "bad rocks" or "bad upper regions"). The first french travelers in the area translated this local name into the french "Maladette", thinking it had something to do with the italian term "Maladetta" (feminin for "damned"). After that, Maladeta was a logical evolution and from the name of a single peak it came to be the term to know the whole massif. (info add for "eza")

The Maladeta Massif constitutes the most important and emblematic set of summits of the whole Pyrenees, not only for contains the highest point (Aneto, 3404m), but for the category and quantity of tops over 3000 meters that it contains. For centuries this range has astonished the mountaineers that for many years of legend have managed to conquer the summits. Great report of the history of the French and Spanish mountaineering has been written in these mythical summits.
For a long time the massif was removed from the civilization and was a hard task for the first conquerors to come up to it for what was adapted the name of Montes Malditos ("Damned Mounts") that still is correct to refer to this mountain range.
The Maladeta Massif is located in valley of Benasque in north of Huesca, just in the middle of the mountainous range of the Pyrenees (Pirineos).

History-The Conquerors

 
The Pico de la Maladeta...
Pico Maladeta
 
The Pico de Aneto (3404m)...
Aneto

I write some words about the first mountaineers on the summits of Maladeta. The first climb to Pico de la Maladeta in 1817 had special importance. When Parrot and Barrau reached the summit they thinked it was the highest of massif, and as well of the full Pyrenees, but they comtemplated the highest Aneto from the summit. A lot of years were needed to climb this peak.

Peak Date Mountaineers Route
Pico de la Maladeta29-september-1817F.Parrot & P.BarrauCol de Rimaya
Pico de Aneto20-july-1842A. de Franqueville, P. de Tchihatcheff, B.Arrazau, O.Redonnet, P.Sarrió & J.SorsSouth
Pico Russell1865H.Russell & C.PackeSout-east
Pico de Albajuly-1868H.Russell & J.Haurillon-
Pico Tempestades21-august-1877H.Russell & C.Passetshoulder SSE
Picos Cordier & Sayó25-august-1877H.Russell & C.Passet-
Pico de Aragüelsaugust-1880H.Russell & F.Barreauridge ENE
Diente de Alba31-august-1882H.Russell & B.Courrége-
Pico Maldito1882H.BrulleCol Maldito
Punta Astorgjuly-1901D'Astorg, H.Brulle, C.Passet & B.SallesCol Maldito
Pico Margalida29-july-1905Le Bondidier & JM.SansucSouth



Getting There

The valley of Benasque is actually the most popular of the Pyrenees because it the signposting is good on the roads for the 3 big valleys of Pyrenees of the north of Huesca: Tena, Ordesa and Benasque.
For approach to Benasque from Huesca: in the road on direction to Barbastro (N-240). After Barbastro we follow the indication to valley of Benasque to the C-1311 to Graus and the C-139 to Benasque across the beautiful gorge of Congosto de Ventanillo.

The approach of the principal summits has different trailheads but the principal trailheads are:

-Llanos de la Besurta (near the Hospital de Benasque) and refuge of La Renclusa in the north of Maladeta. Trailhead to Aneto, Maldito, Maladeta, Tuc de Mulleres...

-Bridge of Coronas at the end of the track of Vallibierna in the south of Maladeta. Trailhead to south route to Aneto, Aragüels, Vallibierna, Tempestades, Margalida, Russell...

-Puente de Cregüeña in the road between Benasque and Llanos del Hospital de Benasque. Trailhead to Pico de Alba, Diente de Alba, Mir, Sayó, Cordier...

The summits

It exist a lot of summits, but I show the principal summits and not the aiguilles or little summits except the peaks of 3000m of the list of UIAA. List of the Maladeta Massif from North-West to South-East with the grade of difficulty of easiest route, generally the normal but in many cases with the aiguilles is easier the descent from a main summit as the Espalda de Aneto, Aguja Superior de Russell... than the route normal for rock-climbers:
ImagePeakMetersRoute(grade)
Gendarmes del Alba
 
Aguja de Alba3054P.D. (II+)
Pico de Alba from Remuñe s...
 
Pico de Alba 3118F
Diente de Alba (3136m)
 
Diente de Alba3136F.
Muela de Alba (3111m)
 
Muela de Alba3118F.
Diente de la Maladeta (2888m)
 
Diente de la Maladeta2888F.
Punta Delmás (3170m)
 
Punta Delmás3170F.sup.
Delmás, Mir and Sayó from Diente de Alba
 
Pico Mir3185F. (I)
Pico Sayó (3211m)
 
Pico Sayó3228F.
Pico Cordier (3263m)
 
Pico Cordier3254F.
Le Bondidier (3146m)
 
Pico Le Bondidier3185F.sup. (II-)
Pico Collado de la Rimaya (3265m)
 
P.Collado de la Rimaya3265P.D. (II+)
 Pico de la Maladeta (3308m)...
 
Pico de la Maladeta3308PD (II+)
East Maladeta´s south face....
 
Pico Abadías 3279F.
Pico Maldito (3350m)
 
Aguja Schmidt-Endell 3335P.D.sup.
Aneto to Maldito
 
Pico Maldito3350AD inf (II, III, II+,I+,I,II+)
Pico del Medio, Punta Astorg and Maldito
 
Punta Astorg3355A.D.inf.(II, III, II+,I+,I,II+,I)
Aguja Haurillon (3075m)
 
Aguja Haurillon3075A.D.
Aguja de Cregüeña (3039m)
 
Aguja de Cregüeña3043A.D.
Aguja Juncadella (3019m)
 
Aguja Juncadella3021F.
Aragüells (3037m)
 
Pico de Aragüells3037F.
Picos Coronas, Medio and Maldito
 
Pico del Medio3346 F. sup.
Pico de Coronas (3293m)
 
Pico de Coronas3293F
Pico Coronas and Maladeta
 
Tuca de Collado de Coronas3286F.
Punta Oliveras-Arenas (3298m)
 
Punta Oliveras-Arenas3298F.
Aneto
 
Pico de Aneto3404F sup (I+)
Col Estasen & Ag.Daviú
 
Aguja Daviú3350P.D.sup.
Aguja Escudier (3315m)
 
Aguja Escudier3315P.D.sup.
Ridge of Llosás
 
Aguja Franqueville3065P.D.inf.
Ridge of Llosás
 
Aguja Tchihatcheff 3052P.D.sup.(III)
Ridge of Llosás
 
Aguja Argarot3035P.D.
Pitón de Llosás (2889m)
 
Pitón de Llosás2890SD/F
Espalda de Aneto (3350m)
 
Espalda de Aneto3350F.sup.
Aneto, SE face
 
Pta.Brecha Tempestades3274P.D.sup. (III-, III)
Tempestades
 
Pico Tempestades3290F.
Margalida
 
Pico Margalida3241F sup (I+,I)
Salenques ridge
 
Primer Resalte de Salenques3127A.D.inf. (III-)
Segundo Resalte de Salenques
 
Segundo Resalte de Salenques3148D.inf. (V-)
The second tower of Salenques...
 
Torre de Salenques3111D.inf. (V-)
View from the summit of...
 
Forca Estasen3028F.sup. (I+)
Forau d Aigualluts
 
Pic d'Aigualluts2708F.
Pic de Barrancs (2882m)
 
Pic de Barrancs2887F.
Salenques and Mulleres
 
Pico de Salenques2986SD/F
Aneto and Punta B.Russell
 
Punta Brecha Russell3192F (I)
Russell
 
Pico Russell3207F (I)
Russell NW and SE
 
Russell S.E.3205F.
Russell Oriental
 
Russell Oriental3034F.
Aguja Superior de Russell
 
Aguja Russell Superior3146P.D.inf. (II)
Aguja SW
 
Aguja Russell S.W.3029P.D. (II+)
Tuc de Mulleres
 
Tuc de Mulleres3010SD/F
 Tuca de les Culebres and...
 
Tuca de Culebres3051F.
Vallibierna
 
Pico Vallibierna3056F.

Peak of Maladeta (3.308m)

The peak Maladeta give the name to the full massif but it's not the highest (is Aneto). The first explorers of the massif they believed that this peak was the highest of Pyrenees but after the first conquest in 1817 they discovered one mountain highest, the less knowed Aneto (Nethou).

Red Tape

No permits required.
Located in the Posets-Maladeta's Natural Park with your rules (no free camping, no fire,...)

When To Climb

June to september.
In summer the glaciers are a mass of grey ice (It is possible to be necessary to use crampons and ice-axe) and the routes have a lot of stones.
In spring (march-may) generally remain a lot of snow and is a good time for the use of ski, travelled-ski, snowshoe,...but the access of some summits is very complicated (rock climbing is dangerous with softened snow).

Camping

Mountain hut of La Renclusa.
Many hotels in village of Benasque.

Mountain Conditions


External Links

  • Fed.Aragonesa de Montaña
    Info of mountain huts of the FAM, routes, climbing,...
  • Map of Benasque
    General map of the Natural Park of Posets-Maladeta
  • Pyreneisme
    Information about the heroes of first years: Astorg, Rusell, C.Passet, Brulle... (in french)
  • Desnivel #131 Aug. 1997
    In this issue of Desnivel, there is a description of most of the routes of MALADETA ORIENTAL South Face. These 300 metres vertical wall offers you one of the best alpine climbs in the Pyrenees.
  • Cerler
    info about the ski resort of Cerler and all the valley of Benasque.

Images