Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.97011°N / 6.86348°E |
Route Type:
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Rock |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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5b |
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Approach
Very easy if you use the cable car (15.50 euro return)(12.50 euro one way if i remember correctly), at least two hours if you hike up from the valley. Leave the Index station going straight head turning slightly left. There is a kind of rock rib that will keep you off the snow for most of the way to the base of the climb. You will find the start of the climb a bit to the left of the rock out crop.
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Route Description
The route increases in difficult as you go along.
P1. 3+/4 more of a scramble in parts than a climb
P2. 4 the longest pitch with a good belay station at the end room for several people. This pitch is not a direct line watch out for snagged ropes
P3. 4 The nicest pitch in my mind, quite short and direct. Good belay station.
P4. 5b The first hard pitch also quite short. It is possible at this stage to change routes by heading to the right and finishing on the Nez Rouge route 4b, 4b (short) and 5a
P5. 3 small pitch that leads to the right.
P6. 5b short but hard.
Finish with a short scramble
Decent rap off the back, follow the broken trail to the top of a small wall that can be down climbed either on the far left or middle right (as you look down) or rap from a bolt on the left hand side.
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Essential Gear
Take your helmet.
The long pitches are the easy ones so, 6 to 8 quick draws a small rack (of meduim sized gear) to supplement the fixed pro and some slings and a two double rope makes getting off a breeze.
If your doing the route early in the season take along solid approach shoes because you will be traveling over snow. especially on the way back down.
Camping
You can camp sunset to sunrise in the area, lots of tent bays are already made.
>>>>>>>>BIG TIP<<<<<<< if you are going to camp up there take some ear plugs as there are dozens of sheeps and goats that graze in the area and they all have bells.