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Marinet Là

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Marinet Là

Page Type: Route

Location: Ubaye, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.56308°N / 6.84723°E

Object Title: Marinet Là

Route Type: Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: TD, F6a+, UIAA VI+

Number of Pitches: 7

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: May 12, 2011 / Nov 27, 2014

Object ID: 715333

Hits: 2049 

Page Score: 88.19%  - 26 Votes 

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Overview

Marinet Là

The Ubaye area, Alpes de Haute Provence, offers an excellent climbing ground with some veritable gems, from the limestone towers located near Barcelonnette, as Chapeau de Gendarme and Pain de Sucre, to the quartzite walls belonging to the Chambeyron Group and lying above the nice hamlet of Maljasset. Aiguille Large de Mary is one of these latter, a beautiful reddish peak located in the upper part of "Vallon de Mary" and well visible on the left hand side of Aiguille Pierre Andrè.
Marinet Là is a magnificent climb on excellent black and orange quartzite running on the North-East face of this quartzite peak, inside an alpin environment with spectacular views over the Marinet Lakes. The route is equipped with spaced bolts.

Aiguille Large Marinet Là
Beta of Marinet Là

Marinet Lakes and Chambeyron Group, Ubaye
Marinet Lakes and Chambeyron Group

Getting There

Road approach

The main centers in the area are Barcelonnette and Guillestre.

- From Barcelonnette follow the road D902 in the Ubaye Valley towards Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.

- From Guillestre follow the road D902 rising to Col de Var, then descending to Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.

Maljasset ancient church, Ubaye
Maljasset ancient church

Impressive road bridge in Ubaye Valley
The impressive 1882 Chatelet Bridge, Ubaye
 



Walking Approach


From Maljasset cross the river (bridge) and follow in the beginning an unsurfaced route, then the path to Maurin Col, rising to reach a grassy terrace (m. 2045) and going into Mary Valley. At the "upper shepherd's hut" leave the main trail and go towards right, crossing the river; a good path rises towards the Marinet Lakes. A few minutes before reaching the lakes, leave the main path and take a track on the right, rising amongst rocky blocks and stones and leading below the Aiguille de Mary East face (2 hours from Maljasset). Little cairn at the bottom of the route.

Marinet Là report

***Marinet Là report (French Scale)

Summit altitude: 2830 mt.
Difficulty: TD, F6a+, 6a obbl.
Equipment: spaced bolts
Lenght: 220 mt.
Exposure: NE
First ascent: Jean Pierre Chevalier - Gerard Fiaschi 1996

Black wall
Marinet Là, the black wall

Belay on the summit crest and Marinet Lakes
Marinet Lakes from the summit crest




A stunning climb on beautiful black and orange quartzite. Not to be missed!

L1 – A short slab (4b), then a vertical orange groove to a belay on a big flake (5b) 40 mt.
L2 – Climb a slab towards right (5b), then directly along a beautiful vertical wall (6a, sustained) to a belay below a chimney, 35 mt.
L3 – Some short slabs lead to an orange overhanging corner; climb it until its end (5c), then a pillar to a belay, 30 mt.

Aiguille Large Marinet Là
Ending wall
Bivy stone walls on the summit of Aiguille Large
Summit bivy stone walls


L4 - Follow a crack on the left, then some slabs and at last a spectacular ridge (5c), 30 mt.
L5 – Towards right to a big detached pillar (5b), then along an exposed black and grey vertical wall with magnificent climbing (5c, sustained), 30 mt.
L6 – Rise along a compact beautiful wall with superb climb (5c, 6a+), 40 mt.
L7 – An easy climb to the final ridge; a short scramble towards right leads to the summit.


Descent: an easy walk leads to Col Large. From here follow on the left the trail going down along the valley to reach the Marinet Lakes.

Essential Gear

Ropes, ten express, some friends may be useful.


Red Tape

There are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking. Cars in Maljasset village are not allowed. You must leave them in the parking before entering the village.

When to climb

Best months are June, July, August and September.

Meteo

METEO FRANCE

METEO ALPI

Huts

Refuge CAF Maljasset (French Alpin Club) in Maljasset - always open
REFUGE CAF MALJASSET

Guidebooks and maps

 
Aiguille Large de Mary map
 
"La grimpe en Ubaye" by Colin Michel CAF
"Alpes du Sud, Provence" by Hervè Galley, Editions Olizane

Images