Marinet Là

Chambeyron group/Ubaye, France, Europe

Silvia Mazzani

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Aiguille Large de Mary
- Additional Parents
Marinet Là

Page Type:	Route
Lat/Lon:	44.56308°N / 6.84723°E
Route Type:	Sport Climbing
Season:	Summer
Time Required:	Most of a day
Rock Difficulty:	5.10a (YDS)
Difficulty:	TD, F6a+, UIAA VI+
Number of Pitches:	7
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Overview

Marinet Là- Aiguille Large de Mary

The Ubaye area, Alpes de Haute Provence, offers an excellent climbing ground with some veritable gems, from the limestone towers located near Barcelonnette, as Chapeau de Gendarme and Pain de Sucre, to the quartzite walls belonging to the Chambeyron Group and lying above the nice hamlet of Maljasset. Aiguille Large de Mary is one of these latter, a beautiful reddish peak located in the upper part of the "Vallon de Mary" and well visible on the left hand side of Aiguille Pierre Andrè. Marinet Là is a magnificent climb on excellent black and orange quartzite running on the North-East face of this quartzite peak, inside an alpin environment with spectacular views over the Marinet Lakes. The route is equipped with spaced bolts.

Marinet Lakes and Chambeyron Group, Ubaye — Marinet Lakes and Chambeyron Group

Aiguille Large Marinet LÃ — Aiguille Large - Marinet Là topo

Getting There

Road approach

The main centers in the area are Barcelonnette and Guillestre.

- From Barcelonnette follow the road D902 in the Ubaye Valley towards Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.
- From Guillestre follow the road D902 rising to Col de Var, then descending to Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.

Maljasset ancient church, Ubaye — Maljasset ancient church

Pont de Chatelet, an impressive road bridge in Ubaye Valley — The impressive Chatelet road bridge

Walking Approach

From Maljasset cross the river (bridge) and follow in the beginning an unsurfaced route, then the path to Maurin Col, rising to reach a grassy terrace (m. 2045) and going into Mary Valley. At the "upper shepherd's hut" leave the main trail and go towards right, crossing the river; a good path rises towards the Marinet Lakes. A few minutes before reaching the lakes, leave the main path and take a track on the right, rising amongst rocky blocks and stones and leading below the Aiguille de Mary East face (2 hours from Maljasset). Little cairn at the bottom of the route.

Ruins of an ancient alp in Mary Valley — Ruins of an ancient alp along the approach

Watching to the Ubaye-Piedmont border — Approaching

Marinet Là report

***Marinet Là report (French Scale)
Summit altitude: 2830 m
Difficulty: TD, F6a+, 6a obbl.
Equipment: spaced bolts
Lenght: 220 m.
Exposure: NE
First ascent: Jean Pierre Chevalier - Gerard Fiaschi 1996

A stunning climb on beautiful black and orange quartzite. Not to be missed!

Route Marinet LÃ , the black wall — Start of the Black Wall

Black wall on Marinet LÃ , Aiguille Large de Mary — In the middle of the Black wall

L1 – A short slab (4b), then a vertical orange groove to a belay on a big flake (5b) 40 mt.
L2 – Climb a slab towards right (5b), then directly along a beautiful vertical wall (6a, sustained) to a belay below a chimney, 35 mt.
L3 – Some short slabs lead to an orange overhanging corner; climb it until its end (5c), then a pillar to a belay, 30 mt.

Bivy stone walls on the summit of Aiguille Large — Bivy stone walls on the summit

L4 - Follow a crack on the left, then some slabs and at last a spectacular ridge (5c), 30 mt.
L5 – Towards right to a big detached pillar (5b), then along an exposed black and grey vertical wall with magnificent climbing (5c, sustained), 30 mt.
L6 – Rise along a compact beautiful wall with superb climb (5c, 6a+), 40 mt.
L7 – An easy climb to the final ridge; a short scramble towards right leads to the summit.

Belay on the summit crest and Marinet Lakes

Descent: an easy walk leads to Col Large. From here follow on the left the trail going down along the valley to reach the Marinet Lakes.

Essential Gear

Ropes, ten express, some friends may be useful to integrate.

Climbing grades

Rock Climbing Rating Systems

French	YDS	UIAA	French	YDS (USA)	UIAA	French	YDS	UIAA

1	5.2	I	6b	5.10c	VII-	7c+	5.12d	IX
2	5.3	II	6b+	5.10d	VII	8a	5.13a/5.13b	IX+/X-
3	5.4	III	6c	5.11a	VII+	8a+	5.13c	X-
4	5.5	IV	6c+	5.11b	VII+/VIII-	8b	5.13d	X
5a	5.6	V-	7a	5.11c	VIII-	8b+	5.14a	X+
5b	5.7	V/V+	7a+	5.11d	VIII	8c	5.14b	X+/XI-
5c	5.8	VI-	7b	5.12a	VIII+	8c+	5.14c	XI-
6a	5.9	VI/VI+	7b+	5.12b	VIII+/IX-	9a	5.14d	XI
6a+	5.10a/5.10b	VI+/VII-	7c	5.12c	IX-	9a+	5.15a	XI+

Red Tape

There are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking. Cars in Maljasset village are not allowed. You must leave the car in the parking before entering the village.