Marinet Là : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Marinet Lakes from Aiguille Large summit

From Aiguille Large summit view over Marinet Lakes with Aiguille de Chambeyron - Photo Silvia Mazzani

Marinet Là - Photo Silvia Mazzani

Marinet Là

Marinet Là is a magnificent climb on excellent black and orange quartzite running on the North-East face of Aiguille Large de Mary, inside an alpin environment with spectacular views over the Marinet Lakes. The route is equipped with spaced bolts.

Getting There

Road approach

The main centers in the area are Barcelonnette and Guillestre.

- From Barcelonnette follow the road D902 in the Ubaye Valley towards Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.

- From Guillestre follow the road D902 rising to Col de Var, then descending to Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.

Walking Approach

From Maljasset cross the river (bridge) and take in the beginning a unsurfaced route, then the path to Maurin Col, rising to reach a grassy terrace (m. 2045) and going into Mary Valley. At the "upper shepherd's hut" leave the main trail and go towards right, crossing the river; a good path rises towards the Marinet Lakes. Before reaching the lakes, leave the main path and take a track on the right, which rises between rocky block and stones, leading below the Aiguille de Mary East face (2 hours from Maljasset). Little cairn at the bottom of the route.

Marinet Là report

Marinet Là fifth pitch black wall - Photo Silvia Mazzani

Marinet Là final wall

***Marinet Là report (French Scale)

Summit altitude: 2830 mt.
Difficulty: TD, F6a+, 6a obbl.
Equipment: spaced bolts
Lenght: 220 mt.
Exposure: NE
First ascent: Jean Pierre Chevalier - Gerard Fiaschi 1996

L1 – A short slab (4b), then a vertical orange groove to a belay on a big flake (5b) 40 mt.
L2 – Climb a slab towards right (5b), then directly along a beautiful vertical wall (6a, sustained) to a belay below a chimney, 35 mt.
L3 – Some short slabs lead to an orange overhanging corner; climb it until its end (5c), then a pillar to a belay, 30 mt.
L4 - Follow a crack on the left, then some slabs and at last a spectacular ridge (5c), 30 mt.
L5 – Towards right to a big detached pillar (5b), then along an exposed black and grey vertical wall with magnificent climbing (5c, sustained), 30 mt.
L6 – Rise along a compact beautiful wall with superb climb (5c, 6a+), 40 mt.
L7 – An easy climb to the final ridge; a short scramble towards right leads to the summit.