The Ubaye area, Alpes de Haute Provence, offers an excellent climbing ground with some veritable gems, from the limestone towers located near Barcelonnette, as Chapeau de Gendarme and Pain de Sucre, to the quartzite walls belonging to the Chambeyron Group and lying above the nice hamlet of Maljasset. Aiguille Large de Mary is one of these latter, a beautiful reddish peak located in the upper part of "Vallon de Mary" and well visible on the left hand side of Aiguille Pierre Andrè.
Marinet Là is a magnificent climb on excellent black and orange quartzite running on the North-East face of this quartzite peak, inside an alpin environment with spectacular views over the Marinet Lakes. The route is equipped with spaced bolts.
Getting ThereRoad approach
The main centers in the area are Barcelonnette and Guillestre.
- From Barcelonnette follow the road D902 in the Ubaye Valley towards Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.
- From Guillestre follow the road D902 rising to Col de Var, then descending to Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.
From Maljasset cross the river (bridge) and follow in the beginning an unsurfaced route, then the path to Maurin Col, rising to reach a grassy terrace (m. 2045) and going into Mary Valley. At the "upper shepherd's hut" leave the main trail and go towards right, crossing the river; a good path rises towards the Marinet Lakes. A few minutes before reaching the lakes, leave the main path and take a track on the right, rising amongst rocky blocks and stones and leading below the Aiguille de Mary East face (2 hours from Maljasset). Little cairn at the bottom of the route.
Marinet Là report***Marinet Là report (French Scale)
Summit altitude: 2830 mt.
Difficulty: TD, F6a+, 6a obbl.
Equipment: spaced bolts
Lenght: 220 mt.
First ascent: Jean Pierre Chevalier - Gerard Fiaschi 1996
A stunning climb on beautiful black and orange quartzite. Not to be missed!
L1 – A short slab (4b), then a vertical orange groove to a belay on a big flake (5b) 40 mt.
L2 – Climb a slab towards right (5b), then directly along a beautiful vertical wall (6a, sustained) to a belay below a chimney, 35 mt.
L3 – Some short slabs lead to an orange overhanging corner; climb it until its end (5c), then a pillar to a belay, 30 mt.
L4 - Follow a crack on the left, then some slabs and at last a spectacular ridge (5c), 30 mt.
L5 – Towards right to a big detached pillar (5b), then along an exposed black and grey vertical wall with magnificent climbing (5c, sustained), 30 mt.
L6 – Rise along a compact beautiful wall with superb climb (5c, 6a+), 40 mt.
L7 – An easy climb to the final ridge; a short scramble towards right leads to the summit.
Descent: an easy walk leads to Col Large. From here follow on the left the trail going down along the valley to reach the Marinet Lakes.
Essential GearRopes, ten express, some friends may be useful.
Red TapeThere are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking. Cars in Maljasset village are not allowed. You must leave them in the parking before entering the village.
When to climbBest months are June, July, August and September.
HutsRefuge CAF Maljasset (French Alpin Club) in Maljasset - always open
REFUGE CAF MALJASSET
Guidebooks and maps
"La grimpe en Ubaye" by Colin Michel CAF
"Alpes du Sud, Provence" by Hervè Galley, Editions Olizane