Welcome to SP!  -
Marinet Là
Route
Contribute 
 
Geography
Parents 
Routes
 

Marinet Là

 
Marinet Là

Page Type: Route

Location: Ubaye, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.56308°N / 6.84723°E

Object Title: Marinet Là

Route Type: Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: TD, F6a+, UIAA VI+

Number of Pitches: 7

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: May 12, 2011 / Feb 1, 2014

Object ID: 715333

Hits: 1582 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

 
Marinet Lakes from Aiguille Large  summit
From Aiguille Large summit view over Marinet Lakes with Aiguille de Chambeyron
 
Aiguille Large Marinet Là
Marinet Là


Marinet Là

Marinet Là is a magnificent climb on excellent black and orange quartzite running on the North-East face of Aiguille Large de Mary, inside an alpin environment with spectacular views over the Marinet Lakes. The route is equipped with spaced bolts.

Getting There

Road approach

The main centers in the area are Barcelonnette and Guillestre.

- From Barcelonnette follow the road D902 in the Ubaye Valley towards Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.

- From Guillestre follow the road D902 rising to Col de Var, then descending to Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.


Walking Approach


From Maljasset cross the river (bridge) and follow in the beginning an unsurfaced route, then the path to Maurin Col, rising to reach a grassy terrace (m. 2045) and going into Mary Valley. At the "upper shepherd's hut" leave the main trail and go towards right, crossing the river; a good path rises towards the Marinet Lakes. A few minutes before reaching the lakes, leave the main path and take a track on the right, rising amongst rocky blocks and stones and leading below the Aiguille de Mary East face (2 hours from Maljasset). Little cairn at the bottom of the route.

Marinet Là report

 
Black wall
Marinet Là fifth pitch black wall
 
Aiguille Large Marinet Là
Marinet Là final wall


***Marinet Là report (French Scale)

Summit altitude: 2830 mt.
Difficulty: TD, F6a+, 6a obbl.
Equipment: spaced bolts
Lenght: 220 mt.
Exposure: NE
First ascent: Jean Pierre Chevalier - Gerard Fiaschi 1996


L1 – A short slab (4b), then a vertical orange groove to a belay on a big flake (5b) 40 mt.
L2 – Climb a slab towards right (5b), then directly along a beautiful vertical wall (6a, sustained) to a belay below a chimney, 35 mt.
L3 – Some short slabs lead to an orange overhanging corner; climb it until its end (5c), then a pillar to a belay, 30 mt.
L4 - Follow a crack on the left, then some slabs and at last a spectacular ridge (5c), 30 mt.
L5 – Towards right to a big detached pillar (5b), then along an exposed black and grey vertical wall with magnificent climbing (5c, sustained), 30 mt.
L6 – Rise along a compact beautiful wall with superb climb (5c, 6a+), 40 mt.
L7 – An easy climb to the final ridge; a short scramble towards right leads to the summit.

 
Bivy stone walls on the summit of Aiguille Large
Bivy stone walls on the summit






Descent: an easy walk leads to Col Large. From here follow on the left the trail going down along the valley to reach the Marinet Lakes.

Essential Gear

Ropes, ten express, some friends may be useful.

When to climb

Best months are June, July, August and September.

Meteo

METEO FRANCE

METEO ALPI

Huts

Refuge CAF Maljasset (French Alpin Club) in Maljasset - always open
REFUGE CAF MALJASSET

Guidebooks and maps

 
Aiguille Large de Mary map
 
"La grimpe en Ubaye" by Colin Michel CAF
"Alpes du Sud, Provence" by Hervè Galley, Editions Olizane

Images

Bivy stone walls on the summit of Aiguille LargeAiguille Large de Mary East sideAiguille Large Marinet Là Aiguille Large Marinet LàMarinet LàAiguille Large de Mary mapMarinet Lakes seen from Aiguille Large
Black wallEscalade Alpes du Sud