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Aiguille Large de Mary

Aiguille Large de Mary

Aiguille Large de Mary

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Ubaye, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.56308°N / 6.87813°E

Object Title: Aiguille Large de Mary

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 9373 ft / 2857 m


Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: May 4, 2011 / Mar 23, 2014

Object ID: 713487

Hits: 1621 

Page Score: 80.86%  - 13 Votes 

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Aiguille Large de Mary

The Ubaye area (Alpes de Haute Provence) offers quite an interesting climbing ground, from the limestone towers located near Barcelonnette, as Chapeau de Gendarme and Pain de Sucre, to the quartzite walls belonging to the Chambeyron Group and lying nearby the nice hamlet of Maljasset. Aiguille Large de Mary is one of these latter, a beautiful reddish peak overlooking the upper "Vallon de Mary", on the left hand side of the well known Aiguille Pierre Andrè.
The mountain main interests are both climbing and hiking. In fact the trail along the Normal route to the summit is a pleasant hike, allowing to take some magnificent views over Marinet Lakes and Aiguille de Chambeyron.
On the contrary a stunning climb runs on Aiguille Large de Mary North-East face, the interesting wall facing toward the approach path on the Vallon de Mary; it's Marinet Là, a spectacular climbing route developing on extra-quality orange and black quartzite, a hard kind of rock, plenty of flat holds. The route is equipped with spaced bolts.

Marinet Lakes seen from Aiguille Large
The Marinet Lakes seen from Aiguille Large de Mary
Aiguille Large de Mary and Aiguille Pierre Andrè
Aiguille Large de Mary (on the left) and Aiguille Pierre Andrè on the right

Getting There

Aiguille Large de Mary map

The starting point is the little hamlet of Maljasset m. 1905. The main towns in the area are Barcelonnette and Guillestre.

Road Approach

- From Barcelonnette follow the road D902 in the Ubaye Valley towards Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.

- From Guillestre follow the road D902 rising to Col de Var, then descending to Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.

Walking Approach

Red Tape

Bivy stone walls on the summit of Aiguille Large

There are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking. Cars in Maljasset village are not allowed. Leave them in the parking before entering the village.

Huts and Campings

There is an equipped campground open in summer in Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye.

In the nice hamlet of Maljasset it's possible to stay in Refuge CAF Maljasset (French Alpine Club - CAF, mt. 1905), 60 beds, always open, phone 04 92 84 34 04.

Hiking and climbing

Near the summit
Near Aiguille Large summit
Aiguille Large de Mary
Marinet Lakes
Getting to Marinet Lakes

Aiguille Large de Mary Normal Route, a beatiful hike

From Maljasset cross the Ubaye river (bridge), going toward right and taking in the beginning an unsurfaced route towards Col Maurin, then a good path rising to reach a grassy terrace (m. 2045) and going into Mary Valley. At the "upper alp" mt. 2380 (a little and unguarded shepherd's hut) leave the main trail and turn to right; a good path rises towards the Marinet Lakes. Once getting to the wide basin where the beautiful lakes lie, turn to right, following a path rising along the valley and leading to Col Large. From here turn to right and reach Aiguille Large de Mary's top by an easy scramble (3 hours from Maljasset).

Aiguille Large de Mary East face

The route Marinet Là is a superb climb on fine orange and black quartzite.

When to hike and climb

Best season goes from July to September

Guidebooks and maps

Escalade Alpes du Sud
Ubaye Guidebook

"Alpes du Sud, Provence" by Hervè Galley - Editions Olizane
"La grimpe en Ubaye" by Colin Michel, CAF


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