Marmottes Givreè : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Aiguille Pierre Andrè: the summit - Photo Silvia Mazzani september 2009

Aiguille Pierre Andrè South Face - Photo Silvia Mazzani september 2009

"Marmottes Givrèe" is a magnificent steady route on extra quality orange quartzite, running on SE face of Aiguille Pierre Andrè and leading directly on the summit. The climbing style is athletic and varied, demanding a good training on 6a grading.

Getting There

From Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye reach Maljasset (mt. 1900); parking before the small village. Cross the village and the river and take a good path rising along Mary Valley. At the second grassy terrace leave the trail for Col de Mary and go towards right along "11° BCA Path", a narrow track with several hairpins leading below Pierre Andrè South face (2 hours from Maljasset).

Marmottes Givreé report

Marmottes Givreé report

Marmottes Givreè fourth pitch crack: the crux

***Marmottes Givreé report (French Scale)

Summit altitude: 2812 mt.
Difficulty: TD, 6a+ max
Equipment: bolts
Length: 200 mt.
Exposure: SE
First ascent: Jean Pierre Chevalier - Gerard Fiaschi 1994

The quality and the colour of quartzite are extraordinary, the route is truly a little masterpiece!!!

L1 6a Steep pillar, little overhang, slab
L2 6a Magnificent pitch. Toward right, a lightly overhanging wall, another little wall, a little corner
L3 5c A bit easier pitch
L4 6a+ An overhanging crack, a vertical corner, a little overhang
L5 5c+ A crack on the left, a vertical orange pillar, three subsequent little walls
L6 3b A final pitch with easy rocks leading on the top

Descent: along Normal Route situated in the opposite side (2° and 3° grade UIAA, abseils possible)

A curiosity: The route's name - Marmottes givreè - means "greed marmots"; the name is due to the particular voracity of the local marmots, which sometimes also eat backpacks!!!

Marmottes Givreè second pitch - Photo Silvia Mazzani september 2009

Essential Gear

Ropes 2 x 50, ten express, helmet

Where to stay

Maljasset ancient church

Maljasset Hut

There's an equipped camping open in summer in Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye.

In Maljasset' village you can stay in:
- Refuge CAF Maljasset (French Alpine Club - CAF, mt. 1905), 60 beds, always open, phone 04 92 84 34 04
REFUGE CAF MALJASSET

- Gite d’etape “La Cure”.

In Pont d’Estreche Maison d’hotes “La Posada”.