"Marmottes Givrèe" is a magnificent steady route on extra quality orange quartzite, running on the SE face of Aiguille Pierre Andrè and leading directly on the summit. A little masterpiece! The climbing style is athletic and varied, demanding a good training on 6a grading.
Getting ThereRoad approach
The main towns in the area are Barcelonnette and Guillestre.
- From Barcelonnette follow the road D902 along the Ubaye Valley towards Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset m. 1905 - Parking before the village.
- From Guillestre follow the road D902 rising to Col de Var, then descending to Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.
Cross the little village of Maljasset m. 1905, then cross the river and take a good path rising along Mary Valley. At the second grassy terrace leave the trail to Col de Mary and follow on the right the "11° BCA Path", a narrow trail with several hairpins leading below Pierre Andrè South face (2 hours from Maljasset).
Red tapeCars in Maljasset village are not allowed. Leave them in the parking before entering the village.
Marmottes Givreé reportMarmottes Givreé report
***Marmottes Givreé report (French Scale)
Summit altitude: 2812 mt.
Difficulty: TD, 6a+ max
Length: 200 mt.
First ascent: Jean Pierre Chevalier - Gerard Fiaschi 1994
The quality and the colour of quartzite are extraordinary, the route is truly a little masterpiece!!!
L1 6a Climb a steep pillar, a little overhang, then a slab
L2 6a Magnificent pitch. Toward right climb a lightly overhanging wall, another little wall, then a little corner
L3 5c A bit easier pitch
L4 6a+ An overhanging crack, a vertical corner, a little overhang
L5 5c+ A crack on the left, a vertical orange pillar, three subsequent little walls
L6 3b A final pitch on easy rocks leading to the top
Descent: follow the Normal Route situated in the opposite side (II and III grade UIAA, abseils possible)
A curiosity: The route's name - Marmottes givreè - means "greed marmots"; the name is due to the particular voracity of the local marmots, which sometimes also eat backpacks!!!
Essential GearRopes 2 x 50, ten express, helmet
Where to stay
There's an equipped camping open in summer in Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye.
In Maljasset' village you can stay in:
- Refuge CAF Maljasset (French Alpine Club - CAF, mt. 1905), 60 beds, always open, phone 04 92 84 34 04
REFUGE CAF MALJASSET
- Gite d’etape “La Cure”.
In Pont d’Estreche Maison d’hotes “La Posada”.
When to climbBest season goes from middle June to September.
Guidebooks and maps
"La grimpe en Ubaye" by Colin Michel CAF
"Alpes du Sud Provence" by Hervè Galley
Map IGN TOP 25 3538 ET, Aiguilles de Chambeyron