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Marmottes Givreè

 
Marmottes Givreè

Page Type: Route

Location: Ubaye, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.57139°N / 6.84345°E

Object Title: Marmottes Givreè

Route Type: Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: TD sup., UIAA VI+

Number of Pitches: 6

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Apr 23, 2011 / Mar 25, 2014

Object ID: 711432

Hits: 1687 

Page Score: 80.49%  - 12 Votes 

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Overview

 
Aiguille Pierre Andrè - The summit
Aiguille Pierre Andrè: the summit - Photo Silvia Mazzani september 2009
 
Aiguille Pierre Andrè South Face
Aiguille Pierre Andrè South Face - Photo Silvia Mazzani september 2009


"Marmottes Givrèe" is a magnificent steady route on extra quality orange quartzite, running on the SE face of Aiguille Pierre Andrè and leading directly on the summit. A little masterpiece! The climbing style is athletic and varied, demanding a good training on 6a grading.

Getting There

Road approach

The main towns in the area are Barcelonnette and Guillestre.

- From Barcelonnette follow the road D902 along the Ubaye Valley towards Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset m. 1905 - Parking before the village.

- From Guillestre follow the road D902 rising to Col de Var, then descending to Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of Maljasset (mt. 1905)- Parking before the village.


Walking approach

Cross the little village of Maljasset m. 1905, then cross the river and take a good path rising along Mary Valley. At the second grassy terrace leave the trail to Col de Mary and follow on the right the "11° BCA Path", a narrow trail with several hairpins leading below Pierre Andrè South face (2 hours from Maljasset).

Red tape

There are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.
Cars in Maljasset village are not allowed. Leave them in the parking before entering the village.




Marmottes Givreé report

Marmottes Givreé report

 
Marmottes Givreè
Marmottes Givreè fourth pitch crack: the crux
 
Marmottes Givreè
 


***Marmottes Givreé report (French Scale)

Summit altitude: 2812 mt.
Difficulty: TD, 6a+ max
Equipment: bolts
Length: 200 mt.
Exposure: SE
First ascent: Jean Pierre Chevalier - Gerard Fiaschi 1994

The quality and the colour of quartzite are extraordinary, the route is truly a little masterpiece!!!

L1 6a Climb a steep pillar, a little overhang, then a slab
L2 6a Magnificent pitch. Toward right climb a lightly overhanging wall, another little wall, then a little corner
L3 5c A bit easier pitch
L4 6a+ An overhanging crack, a vertical corner, a little overhang
L5 5c+ A crack on the left, a vertical orange pillar, three subsequent little walls
L6 3b A final pitch on easy rocks leading to the top

Descent: follow the Normal Route situated in the opposite side (II and III grade UIAA, abseils possible)

A curiosity: The route's name - Marmottes givreè - means "greed marmots"; the name is due to the particular voracity of the local marmots, which sometimes also eat backpacks!!!



 
Marmottes Givreè
Marmottes Givreè second pitch - Photo Silvia Mazzani september 2009






Essential Gear

Ropes 2 x 50, ten express, helmet

Where to stay

 
Maljasset ancient church
Maljasset ancient church
 
Maljasset Hut
Maljasset Hut


There's an equipped camping open in summer in Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye.

In Maljasset' village you can stay in:
- Refuge CAF Maljasset (French Alpine Club - CAF, mt. 1905), 60 beds, always open, phone 04 92 84 34 04
REFUGE CAF MALJASSET

- Gite d’etape “La Cure”.

In Pont d’Estreche Maison d’hotes “La Posada”.


 
Maljasset village
 

When to climb

Best season goes from middle June to September.

Meteo

METEO FRANCE

METEO ALPI

Guidebooks and maps

 
Ubaye Guidebook
 
 
Escalade Alpes du Sud
 


"La grimpe en Ubaye" by Colin Michel CAF
"Alpes du Sud Provence" by Hervè Galley

Map IGN TOP 25 3538 ET, Aiguilles de Chambeyron


Images

Aiguille Pierre Andrè South FaceMarmottes GivreèMarmottes GivreèMarmottes GivreèAiguille Pierre AndrèAiguille Pierre Andrè - The summitMarmottes Givreè
Maljasset ancient churchEscalade Alpes du Sud Maljasset HutMaljasset village