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Aiguille Pierre André
Mountain/Rock

Aiguille Pierre André

 
Aiguille Pierre André

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Ubaye, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.57380°N / 6.85270°E

Object Title: Aiguille Pierre André

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 9360 ft / 2853 m

 

Page By: om, Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Jun 27, 2002 / Dec 1, 2017

Object ID: 151046

Hits: 8894 

Page Score: 80.78%  - 14 Votes 

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Overview

Aiguille Pierre Andrè is a nice rock mountain belonging to the Chambeyron range, Ubaye valley. It is considered as the Aiguille Dibona of Ubaye. Although not so superb and flashy, it's a beautiful slender spire, whose South-South-East wall is built with an excellent quartzite, showing a strong orange color, and very rich in handholds, that facilitate the climb always extremely steep. Four routes are located on the South and East walls, amongst those the most frequently climbed is Marmottes Givrées, a magnificent steady route on extra quality orange quartzite leading directly on the summit. The Normal route rises along the shortest West wall.


Aiguille Pierre André
A winter image of Aiguille Pierre André

Aiguille Pierre André
Aiguille Pierre Andrè North Face








Getting There

From Durance Valley - Gap or Sisteron - Barcelonette - St-Paul/Ubaye - Maljasset
From Durance Valley - Embrun or Briançon - Vars pass - St-Paul/Ubaye - Maljasset
From Italy : Magdalena pass - St-Paul/Ubaye - Maljasset



From the hamlet of Maljasset take the itinerary to Col Mary, starting at first with a dirty road through the larches, then becoming a steeper path. At the second grassy terrace there is a junction where you must leave the trail to Col de Mary and take the right branch (signpost "11ème BCA"), a narrow trail crossing a stream, then rising with several hairpins and leading below Pierre Andrè South face (2 hours from Maljasset).

Main routes

- Normal Route (West Face) 3b, 3 pitches, route equipped

- Marmottes Givrées TD, French 6a+ max, UIAA VI+, YDS 5.10a, 200 m (6 pitches), route equipped with bolts

- Route SSE UIAA V+, 180 m (7 pitches)

- Vieux boucs, new look French 6b max, 200 m (7 pitches)

Red Tape

There are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.
Cars in Maljasset village are not allowed. Leave them in the parking before entering the village.

Hut

 
Maljasset Hut
 



Refuge de Maljasset

Caf gestionnaire : CAF D'Embrun, 18 rue de la liberté 05200 Embrun


There's an equipped camping open in summer in Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye.

In Maljasset' village you can stay in:
- Refuge CAF Maljasset (French Alpine Club - CAF, mt. 1905), 60 beds

Altitude : 1905 m
Commune : St-Paul/Ubaye
Carte IGN : 3538 et 3637 OT
Départ : D25 road , access by car
Dénivelé : 0
Temps de montée : 0
Activités : alpinisme, escalade, randonnée, ski de randonnée, ski de fond
Courses : Aiguilles de Chambeyron - Font-Sancte - Tête des Toillies ; escalade : Aiguille Pierre-André - Peigne-Gelinasse-Sanglier ; Randonnée : GTA - GR5 - Tour du Chambeyron ; Ski : traversée des cols Girardin - Col de la Noire - Pointes- Mary
Téléphone du refuge : 04.92.84.34.04
Gardiennage : du 1er février au 10 mai - du 10 juin au 3 novembre - du 26 décembre au 3 janvier
Réservation : gardien : P.Lantelme, chalet du CAF - Maljasset 04530 ST6Paul-Sur-Ubaye TEL :04.92.84.34.04

- Gite d’etape “La Cure”

- Maison d’hotes “La Posada” in Pont d’Estreche

When to climb

Best season goes from middle June to September.

Meteo

Meteo France Saint Paul sur Ubaye

Guidebooks and maps

 
Aiguille Pierre André map
 






"La grimpe en Ubaye" by Colin Michel CAF
"Alpes du Sud Provence" by Hervè Galley

Map IGN TOP 25 3538 ET, Aiguilles de Chambeyron

External Links

Pierre André details on camptocamp

Images

Aiguille Pierre Andrè South FaceAiguille Pierre AndréRed quartzite on Marmottes GivréesRuins of an ancient alp in Mary ValleyAiguille Pierre AndréMarmottes GivréesMarmottes Givrées fourth pitch crack
Aiguille Pierre AndrèAiguille Pierre Andrè - The summitMarmottes GivreèMarmottes Givrées second pitchMaljasset ancient churchApproaching Aiguille Pierre André along Mary ValleyAiguilles du Marinet
[ View Gallery - 17 More Images ]