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Matterhorn Peak Climber's Log

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CWesselsVia East Coul.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2013

CWessels

I can't remember the exact date, so this is approximate.

The east couloir was just a slog. The only class 3 section (and the only part that was fun) is after you reach the saddle at the top of the couloir. Otherwise, it's class 2. I think the west coul. is probably a better scramble. In late season, do everything in your power to avoid the sand and talus on the west side of the snowfield; that is some of the steepest, LOOSEST choss I have ever hiked on. Ever.
Posted Jul 14, 2013 6:35 pm

ernestssonA Little In Over Our Heads

ernestsson

Inspired by Dharma Bums, a desire to get more into mountain climbing, and the proximity to my grandparents' cabin (in the Virginia Lakes valley a few valleys over to the southeast) I decided to try to climb this peak with my girlfriend. Too ambitious. Also didn't do my homework well.
We approached the peak from the north, scrambling up the East Couloir (as near as I can tell), making it to within at most 500 feet of the summit, but we weren't sure where to go from the east ridge and had reached our turnback time. We weren't as comfortable with the terrain as we'd like so descended via the Southeast Slope and Horse Creek Pass, getting to back to the trailhead well after dark.
Will have to come back, with a USGS map and better planning, and give it another try!
Posted Jun 11, 2013 1:40 am

Saluki72Great Trip!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 14, 2013

Saluki72

Awesome trip up, snow was a little sketchy coming back down but the views up top were worth it.
Posted Apr 18, 2013 7:53 pm

HyadventureNorth Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012

Hyadventure

A long a$$ drive to make a long a$$ climb. I thought I was toast by the time I finished the approach. Let my partner lead P1 and by the time it was my turn to lead my head was back into it. Lead P2 (very easy) P4 (Spicy and long) a short P5 (only places 1 peice) and the interesting 4th class traverse to the true summit. My partner got the money pitch P6.
Posted Oct 19, 2012 3:13 pm

HyadventureRe: Matterhorn via Hörnli ridge with guide

Hyadventure

This log is for Matterhorn Peak in California. You might want to move this post.
Posted Oct 19, 2012 3:03 pm

ChuckONorth Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2012

ChuckO

Successful climb & summit with Paul F.; trip was full definition of "mountaineering = nice!; Paul lead all the pitches of technical climb (thanks!); the 5.6 crack pitch on the blank face with lots of air was awesome!!; tough (for me) final move onto top-out of climb.
Posted Oct 15, 2012 3:01 pm

roylacMatterhorn via Hörnli ridge with guide  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2012

roylac

I'm not an experienced climber but my story and video might be helpful for others who are planning this climb.
http://roy.lachica.no/matterhorn/
Posted Sep 6, 2012 2:50 pm

Vitaliy M.Double Dihedral  Sucess!

Vitaliy M.

Did double Dihedral and traversed to Dragtooth and Doodad after
Posted Aug 27, 2012 3:39 pm

seanoStandard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012

seano

Kind of a crappy sand slog, but with a good view. Day 1 of the Sierra Challenge. Trip report.
Posted Aug 11, 2012 9:30 pm

mengboSE slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012

mengbo

day hike from Twin Lakes. there was a heavy thunder storm the night before in that area.
Posted Aug 6, 2012 2:27 pm

SeanReedyCattle Creek TH to Horse Creek to East Couloir to HC Pass to Summit; return via Horse Creek to Mono Village   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2012

SeanReedy

My lab and I started at Cattle Creek TH and then traveled up Horse Creek to above the first big talus pile (the unnecessary to climb heavily ducked one). We turned off the regular approach route way early and headed up the Maze area toward Cleaver Glacier on Sawtooth Ridge passing a nice tarn, a stream, Matterhorn Lake?, and a tower, eventually scrambling to above 11k elevation along the north edge of the Cleaver. Once scrambling options became greater than very mild class 3 near the notch, we backtracked some, including some glissading, and traversed below the Doodad area to below the base of the east Matterhorn couloir before traversing to another tarn, and then more talus slopes to Horse Creek Pass. After summitting, we headed down the Horse Creek Trail to Mono Village. The extra scrambling early on the way up made for a very long day, but the extra sights seen were worthwhile.
Posted Aug 5, 2012 4:44 pm

bedellympiannice  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2012

bedellympian

sub 4 hours from car to summit. probably my favorite area in the sierras. great views.
Posted Jul 8, 2012 11:18 pm

Travissmith2251Matterhorn rocks   Sucess!

Travissmith2251

favorite mountain so far
Posted Jun 22, 2012 7:12 pm

sardudeDid it.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006

sardude

I don't remember when!?!? First time from Mono Villege NE chute slow & sandy w/ Dave G. & Judy R.. 2nd time North Arete 5.7ish w/ Paul D.
Posted Jan 13, 2012 1:30 am

Polarsun1First Ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2011

Polarsun1

Bob Shonerd and I put up a new route (Direct North Face, 5.7+) this season which avoids the looser lower sections of the North Arete. We established 55 - 60m rappels at every belay and were down in minutes. Excellent climbing!
Posted Dec 22, 2011 9:14 pm

LincolnB1987  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 1987

LincolnB

On a backpack trip with sister Gwen, brother Jon and a friend
Posted Dec 6, 2011 9:14 pm

Vitaliy M.Re: North Arete

Vitaliy M.

I heard this climb scared you quite a bit : )
Posted Nov 10, 2011 12:26 am

bedellympianEarly Snow
Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2011

bedellympian

I wanted to bag a last fall peak before heading up to the NW on a road trip. Had a freak snow storm in the Sierras a couple days before but decided to try the Matterhorn anyway because of easy access from Twin Lakes. It was a beautiful sunny day. Got only up to about 8500' and was post-holing through to my waist. Guess I'll have to try another time.
Posted Oct 11, 2011 3:46 pm

aranSnow, sleet, hail- "0% chance of percipitation" on North Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2011

aran

Great trip- watched summer turn to fall turn to early winter over night. The snow field has retreated off the gully so access without crampons wasn't so bad. Beautiful summit, though snowing when we got there! Turned to rain as we descended all the way back to Twin Lakes. Excellent weekend.
Posted Oct 1, 2011 8:42 pm

DrewidSE Slog  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2011

Drewid

A beautiful day hike up the Horse Creek drainage to the pass and on up but lord what a scree slog for the last mile or so. Round trip 12 hours. Plan to traverse the Sawtooth Crest next so this hike was good recon. Great summit perch and killer steep view back down toward Twin Lakes and out to the east.
Posted Sep 8, 2011 4:55 pm

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