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Matterhorn Peak Climber's Log

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atavistNorth Arete, approximately  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2011


Day climb from Twin Lakes. Without any more beta than is implied in the name of the route, I tried to stick to the arete and keep technical climbing difficulties less than 5.7. Though at the beginning I started off left of center. As pointed out by most other ascensionists, there is a lot of loose rock down low but it gets much more solid up high.
Posted Sep 6, 2011 1:06 pm

bobmcSE Slope to S Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2011


Day 1 of Sierra Challenge 2011 (alt. challenge peak). Beautiful hike -- columbines in full bloom. Climbed the sandy slog to the right of the snowfield below the summit; then traversed to S ridge.
Posted Aug 27, 2011 6:33 pm

danomikeSE Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011


Perfect weather and great views!
Posted Aug 21, 2011 9:31 pm

ElGrecoUp West couloir, down East couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2011


Summited with Ann and Mathew. Perfect weather and conditions! Fun 4th/low 5th scrambling near top of W couloir. E couloir descent easier (3rd).
Posted Aug 14, 2011 6:16 pm

WayneFryWest Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2011


Up Horse Creek, base camped with SMG (Sierra Mountaineering Group) at 10,000 ft. Climbed west couloir then down climbed an icy 50 ft slope on the other side. Scrambled up a 3rd class gully then hit a rather steep snow slope. Climbed that slope with a fixed line and continued to the summit with more 3-4 class scrambling. Decended by way of the east couloir. The views from the top are most certainly worth the effort.
Posted Jun 29, 2011 1:33 am

Vitaliy M.Nice solo  Sucess!

Vitaliy M.

Solo dayhike from Twin Lakes via east couloir. Cool half of day outing.
Posted Jun 28, 2011 5:07 pm

mountainmattKerouac Style  Sucess!


Climbed this one in great slow heavy style up from Horse Creek with a few great people. Continued down Matterhorn to Cold Canyons and on out to the Meadows.
Posted Feb 7, 2011 9:36 pm

Iron HikerLong climb but magnificent views!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2010

Iron Hiker

A very nice summit in a beautiful area. The climb is long, though! The last slope is a little anticlimatic but the summit was spectacular. Had a little altitude headache at the last part but it went away after some rest and deep breathing. The climb took almost 11 hours.
Posted Nov 18, 2010 11:47 pm

xharvSoutheast Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2010


Day hike from Twin Lakes via Horse Creek basin. Eleven hours round trip.
Posted Sep 15, 2010 3:14 pm

hauntedbymediocritySoutheast Slope day hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2010


A challenging day hike from Twin Lakes brought us to the top although the scree did its best to stop us. Great peak and view.
Posted Sep 6, 2010 1:46 pm

mdoughertySoutheast Slopes  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010


Up the scree in high wind with an SPS group.
Posted Aug 27, 2010 3:42 am

jspeiglSoutheast Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2010


A beautiful day up the sandy southeast slope from Spiller creek.
Posted Aug 24, 2010 12:16 pm

emilieNorth Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2010


Guided by Tony Brown of MAS. Tough climb for me even on second. Amazing route, beautiful views. Would highly recommend but you must be good at route finding.
Posted Aug 16, 2010 8:53 pm

nickLEast Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2009


Fun time going up the East Couloir. We ended up camping out near a pond at about 9800 ft the first day. Amazing views once you get to the base of the Matterhorn glacer. No snow in the couloir by this time of year so we had to scratch our way up loose rocks. Best part of the climb was the last couple hundred feet once you get out of the couloir.
Posted Aug 2, 2010 3:25 pm

justingNorth Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2010


Climbed the North Arete with rhyang in great weather. Interesting route, and on the hike out we were carried home by the sounds of a rather lame cover band playing Honky Tonk Woman and other standards at the Mono Village Resort.
Posted Aug 2, 2010 3:16 pm

rhyangNorth Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2010


Swapped leads with Justin - I led pitches 2, 4 and 6. Got off-route on pitch 4 and ended up below the Double Dihedral. Justin led back to the N Arete proper on pitch 5, around the chockstone. The last pitch was good and sustained.

Camped at the tarn at ~9800'. Perfect summer day.

Route climbed: West Couloir
Date climbed: 13-June-2010

Snow-camped at 9800' the night before, then did the west couloir the next morning. Fun scrambling, descended third class ledges back to the east couloir, which was about half melted out (and somewhat crowded -- greeted four people who were coming up it :)

Beautiful day, somewhat hot by afternoon. Snow level about 8500-9000', melting fast.

Also did the east couloir (descended via Horse Creek Pass) in May 2008.
Posted Jul 31, 2010 10:43 am

jonhershSE slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2009


Had a nice campsite just over Horse Creek Pass. Very smokey on top due to the fires in Yosemite.
Posted Jul 27, 2010 1:25 pm

pjc30943North Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2010
Awesome camp spot on the moraine, much closer and more convenient than the lake. Currently lots of water all over the place, no need to bring virtually any water on the approach. Good route with lots of loose rock in the first half, but really fun on the second.
Posted Jul 9, 2010 12:20 am

boyblueHorse Creek Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 17, 1982


With Dave. Camped on the pass (very chilly!). Windy, clear and cold on top. Infinite views.
Posted Jul 1, 2010 7:59 pm

mrchad9Horse Creek Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2008


Up from Horse Creek Pass the first day of an overnight with Whorl. One of my favorite weekends in the Sierra. Camped at the lake south of the pass, and climbed Matterhorn's southeast slopes that afternoon. Great views down Spiller Canyon.
Posted Jun 13, 2010 8:06 pm

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