Mean Green, WI5

Overview

The fat upper pitches of Mean Green are one of the most visible flows along the north-facing side of the South Fork. With 300 meters of climbing to get you that high, you'll earn the view. "One of the top ten routes in North America" Joe Josephson calls it. He should know. It is.

Getting There

Take the South Fork road to its end and park in the lot. Note the location of the drainage below the fat green V of the upper pitches. From the far end of the parking area, cross a creek bed and gain the trail that parallels the river, following the fence line of the Majo Ranch. After clearing the ranch, a path dips down to the river. Look for a snow bridge to cross. Gain a trail on the far side, paralleling the river in the other direction (left). Head up the drainage.

Route Description

P1 is 50 meters of fun. Expect WI3+ or 4-. There is supposed to be a bolted anchor at the top but I couldn't find it and belayed off screws and a thread.

P2 is a short easy step.

Hike the gully.

P3 is a nice WI4.

More hiking.

P4 is the crux. The FAists called it WI4. The guidebook says WI5. It was on the easy side when we climbed it, although a bit wet.

Hiking again.

P5-6: The upper slabs are reputed to be dry and brittle. The flow branches right and left; right is longer. We found fat, plastic ice (WI3) and soloed two or so pitches to the top.

Rap the route, using fixed anchors or leaving threads.

Essential Gear

Screws, doubles, tat for threads.

External Links

For conditions check out the Cold Fear Web site:

http://www.coldfear.com/

Images

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