Moab’s Super Crack, 5.10, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Moab’s Super Crack is not located on a tower but essentially has a similar feel and approach of a tower climb.  It is located by itself on a wall named Roadside Crag along Road 313 not far after you head west on 313 from Highway 191, heading into Canyonlands north.  It takes less than half a day to climb and is definitely worth doing.  The second pitch is a true splitter offering a physical hand crack lead with little to any features otherwise.  Although I led the route with just two #2’s, most leaders at the grade would want many more.  The crux is actually a wide awkward start to pitch two that can best be protected with a single #6.  The first pitch is nonconsequential but to lead both pitches as one would involve some unnecessary rope drag issues as there is a nice ledge in between.

After heading west on the 313 Road from Highway 191, cross the rail tracks and pull off at a trailhead on the right.  You can continue to drive a short distance through the trailhead on a dirt road until you are even with the splitter above (photo). 

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 50’-5.8/ Start directly below the obvious splitter of the 2^nd pitch.  Begin with an awkward surmount of a boulder at the base.  Follow the left facing chossy corner on up to a ledge.  Continue up a much cleaner corner to the base of the hand’s splitter.   Small to medium gear belay on a comfortable ledge. 

2^nd Pitch- 80’-5.10/ The start up a chockstone filled wide section is the crux of the route.  A #6 would be safer than a #5 as the local guide suggests.  The #5 placement option is in the way of climbing.  From there place #2’s at will.  I had two on lead but most folks would want quite a few.  There is one spot for a #3 and a slight rest half way up as well.  Chains out right. 

Essential Gear

Single to #3 + #6 and as many extra #2’s that you want.  Double ropes are the local guide recommendation, but I am comfortable rapping the route with a 70m single rope and doing a bit of downclimbing.