Space Ghost, 5.10, 3 Pitches

Overview/Preview

For whatever reason, more likely that it is trad and wide in a sea of sport climbs, Space Ghost does not receive much love in the local guide. It gets a little more attention on  MP.com.  It is actually a decent trad multipitch route by Moab standards. The first pitch is best done by climbing a relatively new (2021) bolted route that is more consistent with the grade of the route (5.10) vs the 5.6 traditional start.  You start just north of the apex of dirt along the base of the wall.  Pictures of Parlor Game show it starting to the right of said apex.  The local guide lists a TR route between Parlor and the 5.6 corner listed at 5.10.  Not sure if this is the bolted route I am referencing as there are so many anchors in this section of the wall.  But bottom line, as of 2021, if you climb the first bolted route right of the corner, it makes for a good start to Space Ghost.  The second and third pitches offer outstanding crack climbing at the grade and they are best climbed separate to avoid rope drag.  The second pitch takes on a knee jamming flake with the crux being the mantle out of said flake.  The fixed anchor is out right on a sloping ledge below a blank wall.  The third pitch reenters the corner system which becomes a flaring chimney with a fist to hand crack in back.  Climb this fun crack to a roof and make a cool exposed (but protected) chimney traverse out left and pull over to the top. 

Space Ghost is located at the popular cragging destination named Ice Cream Parlor along Kane Creek which dumps into the Colorado River.  You reach it by driving west of downtown Moab along the south side of the river.  Locate Kane Creek Drive heading west out of Moab.  It soon turns to a dirt and popular 4x4 road.  Over 7 miles from town, the road turns south along the creek bottom.  There is a decent parking trailhead with a climbing safety kiosk (2021) that marks the start of a climber’s trail that leads to the base of the wall.  From the parking you are at the base of Space Ghost in 5 minutes. 

Route Description

1st Pitch- 110’-5.10/ Between Parlor Game and the 5.6 traditional corner start, is a relatively new bolted slab route (2021).  It has yet to be added to the main local guide or MP.com.  The cruxes are slab moves at the beginning and just before you reach a fixed rap.  Continue up and left back into the corner to another fixed rap below the obvious #4 flake.

2nd Pitch- 70’-5.9/ Climb the fun flake above.  #4s are the best pro as you climb through a single knee jam mid-way up the flake.  Mantle at the top of it and climb the friendly hands crack on the right wall to a fixed rap on a sloping ledge. 

3rd Pitch- 70’-5.10/ Re-enter the chimney to the left and climb the flaring chimney facing the right wall to take advantage of edges, following the #3 crack as it turns to #2.  Eventually move up to the roof and place a #4 and then chimney to hand jam to the left under the roof and make a physical hand crack mantle at the left end to surmount it.  Belay at the tree on top.

Descent

Three single rope raps with a 70m down the wall, multiple fixed stations available if you have a 60m rope. 

Climbing Sequence

Essential Gear

Single from #1 to #5.  Doubles from #2 to #4.  Single rope.  Route faces west.