Moderne Zeiten

Overview

Moderne zeiten is a 11 pitches long route in the grade of V (French 5a). The route is on solid granite, mainly climbing slabs. The route does not end on top of the Punta d'Albigna. To reach the summit of Punta d'Albigna six additional pitches in the grade of up to 5b have to be climbed. These additional pitches are described as NW route.

Getting There

The start of the route can be reached easily from the Albigna hut by following the path that leads in a south-easternly direction across the stream. From the rear of the hut take the path that leads immediately downwards towards an old waterpipe which has a large arrow painted on it. Follow this arrow and the subsequent blue-white markings further downwards and across the stream. From here make your way up to the rubble field at the base of the routes. This field can be easily recognized from the hut so make sure to take some time to get your bearings at the hut before you leave.
The peak is visible all the time so getting lost won't be much of a danger. The route starts just to the left of Mueli route, the beginning of which is marked on the rock.

Route Description

The route is in general equipped with sufficient bolts although on the easier pitches some additional protection might be preffered.
The route starts of with some grade V climbing which turns somewhat right to a shared first stand with the Mueli route. Then it continues to the right on a pitch of grade IV-. The following pitches (pitch 3-10) are graded IV- to V- with an easier fourth pitch traversing to the right (II). Pitch seven starts of in a crack and then turns left under a roof to reach the next belay. The eight pitch climbs the roof from the side. After the tenth pitch the left side should be taken to prevent difficulties. An easy eleventh pitch (II) leads to the final pitch. This turns somewhat left to end on the same spot as the Meuli route.

Getting down from the Punta da l'Albigna after you have climbed Moderne Zeiten is straightforward insofar as the path you need to follow is well marked by stonemen. The sole difficulty is a section of some rather tricky downclimbing on a steep slab on which you do not want to fall and which is difficult to protect. After this the way down is pretty much risk free. Follow the path marked by stonemen and cross the stream to get back on the path which leads back to the hut. Be advised that the stream can swell with meltwater in the afternoon and you might have some difficulty finding a suitable location to cross.

Essential Gear

50 meter rope, 8 quickdraws and a few medium size nuts or cams and some schlinges

Additonal Information

Cablecar
Luftseilbahn Albigna
Open: 01.06-30.09 from 7:00-16:45h
Tel: 0041 (0)81-8381414

Hut
Albignahütte
Open: Mid June-End September
Tel: 0041 (0)81-8221405
@:albigna@bluewin.ch
Internet: www.albigna.com

Guidebooks
Schweiz Plaisir Sud, Sandro von Känel, Filidor verlag, 2010
SAC Führer Bündner Alpen 4 "Sudliches Bergell- Disgrazia", Ruedi Meier & Peter Alig, SAC verlag, 2006

Maps
SAC Map Val Bregaglia #1276, SAC verlag, 2005

Images

View Moderne Zeiten Image Gallery - 6 Images