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Montaz S ascent (normal)
Route

Montaz S ascent (normal)

 
Montaz S ascent (normal)

Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.43600°N / 13.43630°E

Object Title: Montaz S ascent (normal)

Route Type: Mountaineering, Scrambling, Via Ferrata

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: a medium hard ferratta

Route Quality: 
 - 8 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Feb 12, 2003 / Mar 5, 2014

Object ID: 157718

Hits: 4984 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Rating the Tour (With Hiking Standards)

Descending by the east summit...
Descending by the East ridge
0. General: From 1502 m to 2753 m, exposition S and E, marked rock route, protected on many places with steel ropes and pegs.

1. Effort: 1250 m, 3 h 30 min,

2. Power: 3 - medium (easy climbing, medium hard ferrata),

3. Psyche: 3 - medium (Pipan's ladder is 60 m high and almost vertical),

4. Orientation: 1 - no difficulties.

Overall difficulty of the route by the 6-point Swiss Scale for Hiking Routes would be T4.

Approach

You approach the Rif. Brazza (1660 m) by a mountain road from Sella di Nevea. The parking place is just some 20 min below the hut.

(See the main page of Montaz).

Route Description

From the hut you follow the marked trail over alpine meadows towards the north-west. The foot of rock walls looks near, but the magnitude of Altipiano del Montasio makes an illusion. For 550 m of altitude you will need a bit less than 2 hours to reach Forca del Disteis, 2201 m (notch), where the crest from Monte Cimone is attached to the Montaž massif. For the south approach you don't need to ascend just up to the notch, but because of a beautiful panorama it's worth doing it.

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Over the scree the route enters the south wall. First the path climbs a few rock passages towards the right (easy, protected), then it pass the statue-like rock, and continues over many scree bands allways up towards right. Half way to the main (E) ridge from the right Sentiero ferrata Leva arrives.

Here we turn left, climb again a rocky step and reach the small rubble field (steep!) below the final rock step to the ridge. To the right there is Vrh Brda (2661 m).

From here on the route has two possibilities. The old route climbs steeply right over green terraces on the main ridge (below Vrh Brda) and from there it follows the east ridge above the window in the ridge. This easy rock scramble is the most beautiful part of our ascent. The panorama is immense!
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The other possibility (more appropriate for the ascent) goes more directly and uses a vertical, 60 meters high steel ladder (Pipan's ladder). So it reaches the main (east) ridge where it joins the first variant.
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From here the route follows the summit ridge to the top (easy climbing).

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From Rif. Brazza to the top you will need cca 3 h 30 min (1100 meters).

Essential Gear

Good shoes. Pipan's ladder is not to recommend if you have dizziness problems (here you can use equipment for self securing). Take care of falling rocks and use a helmet accordingly!

Images