You reach Rif. Brazza (1660 m) from Sella Nevea by a good, but narrow alpine road. The parking place is just below the hut.
This is the approach of the first climbers on Montaz. A beautiful combination from the south is the ascent over the Findenegg route and the descent over the normal, south route (see the description in the opposite direction). The Suringar bivouac can also be reached from the north (Via Amalia), but that ascent is much longer and higher.
From the Brazza hut you follow the marked trail over alpine meadows towards the north-west. The foot of rock walls looks near, but the magnitude of Altipiano del Montasio makes an illusion. For 550 m of altitude you will need a bit less than 2 hours to reach Forca del Disteis, 2201m (notch), where the crest from Monte Cimone is attached to the Montaz massif.
From Forca del Disteis we must find (it is marked) the enter on a system of bands, leading into the south-west wall of Montaz. We first cross the start of a ravine, which disappears below us in depths of the wild Clapadorie gorge. Soon we reach the foot of a high, remarkable tower, guarding the continuation of bands. Beyond it, the bands broaden and by a comfortable ledge, going horizontally above the completely vertical walls, we walk with hands in pockets to the Suringar bivouac (2450m).
At bivouac we turn sharp to the right and attack the upper part of the magnificant west wall. We scramble over rocks and ledges, the route is marked. Soon we pass a big cave (Caverna Brazza), where first climbers spent their lonely night. We continue the same direction and soon reach the bottom of a big rocky ravine, named by the man who first ascended Montaz - Hermann Findenegg from Villach (Beljak). We first use the left side, when the ravine becomes narrow we go by the bottom, later we cross to the right side. The route is marked, but not secured, so we must carefully climb, because rocks are rather crumbly. On the upper part of the couloir we turn again towards left and reach the main ridge. An endless panorama opens towards the north, and to the summit we have only a few minutes over the north ridge.
Essential GearThis magnificent route is an easy climb. We can enjoy deep views hundreds of meters, yes, even more than a thousand into wild valleys. We walk over comfortable bands, just centimeters from complete vertical walls below us. For not experienced climbers a rope might be useful.
In early summer in Findenegg couloir snow lies, so a complete winter equipment is needed.
An Intermezzo From Skiers...Here, I'd like to share with you some beautiful points from the web diary of Marijana Cuderman & Marko Kern, from the winter tour in which Marko was skiing down the Findenegg couloir:
Resnično zanimiv pa je sam prestop okoli robu, ki v nama vedno sproži izrazit čustveni premik. Na tej drugi strani Montaža se ves civilizacijski 'trušč' v hipu izgubi v brezmejni tišini nad Dunjo, ki bi jo lahko rezal z nožem. Z besedami ne morem opisati tega čudovitega občutka, ko ves lahkoten lebdiš na 'pozabljeni' strani gore.
Really interesting is the passage around the edge, which in us allways triggers a distinct emotional shift. On this, other side of Montaž, the whole civilisation noise in a moment is lost in the endless silence above Dunja, which could be cut with a knife. With words I can not describe this wonderful feeling, when all light you are hovering on the 'forgotten' side of the mountain.
And two pictures of skiing: (1), (2)