Monte Brentoni is a spectacular dolomitic peak of the Southern Carnic Alps that gives the name to a small group of mountains called "Gruppo dei Brentoni" or simply "I Brentoni". The main summits of this group are ( from west ): Monte Tudaio ( 2129 m ), Cima Bragagnina ( 2281 m ), Monte Schiavon ( 2326 m ), Monte Crissin ( 2503 m ), Monte Popera Val Grande ( Cima Est 2520 m ), Cresta Castellati ( 2302 m ), Monte Brentoni ( Cima di Mezzo 2548 m ), Torrioni di Val d'Inferno ( main tower Torre Evelina 2409 m ), Monte Cornon ( Cima Ovest 2378 m ) and Crode di Mezzodì ( Cima Nord 2394 m ).
This is the westernmost group of the southern Carnic Alps, and is situated between the river Piave and the valleys Frison and Piova. The river Piave was chosen by geographers as a border between the Carnic Alps and the Dolomites, even if this mountains, like others of the Carnic Prealps, are mostly dolomitic, much different ( and much younger ) from the limestone peaks of the Carnic main chain. Monte Brentoni formed in the late Triassic age ( 220-200 million years ) and is completely composed by dolomia principale.
The name of this mountain probably comes from "brenta" which in friulano language means wash-tub, and indicates the big basins on the north slopes of the group.
This peak has a very appealing silohuette, with three summits ( Cima Est 2540 m, Cima Ovest 2547 m and Cima di Mezzo 2548 m ) and vertical faces with deep ravines and ledges on all sides.
Monte Brentoni and its group offer to the hiker/climber the chance to go back in time and follow the steps of the first pioneers of the Dolomites that came here in the first years of the 20 th century. Here you can enjoy the wild beauty of the dolomitic mountains in perfect solitude, light years far from the chaos of Cortina, Moena or Pinzolo. Although this is an almost forgotten mountain there are many different routes that can satisfy all tastes. There are beautiful hiking trails around the group and climbing routes from grade UIAA I to VI.
The position of this peak, just in the border between two different alpine chains, makes it a fantastic lookout point for observe how this mountains formed in the geological ages. The panorama from the summit is so amazing that is very difficult to choose which is the best view: looking north and north-east you can admire almost all the main ridge of the Carnic Alps opened like a fan just in front of your eyes; looking west and south you can observe all the fantastic dolomitic peaks of the eastern Dolomites and the Carnic PreAlps, with mountains like Popera, Tre Scarperi, Croda dei Toni, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Croda Rossa d'Ampezzo, Cristallo , Tofane, Sorapiss, Antelao ,Pelmo, Civetta , Schiara, Crìdola, Cima dei Preti, Duranno and Monfalconi that seem to compete on wich one is more beautiful; looking east you can see the sharp peaks of southern Carnic Alps with Terza Grande above all and in the background the Julian Alps and Prealps. So if you plan to climb this mountain choose a day with a clear sky and don't forget your binoculars!
The first ascent of Monte Brentoni is of one famous pioneer of this mountains, Gustav Baldermann from Vienna, that reached the main summit with C.Schmid and H.Woedl on June 24 , 1898. Baldermann was also the one who won the huge vertical north wall ( 700 m ) in 1903.
There are two possible approaches: From south ( Sella Ciampigotto ) and from north ( S.Stefano di cadore - Val Grande ).
From west: from the Brennero motorway exit Bressanone/Brixen and then S.Candido-Passo Monte Croce Comelico- S.Stefano-Vigo di Cadore-Sella Ciampigotto
From east: from the Udine-Tarvisio motorway exit Carnia and then Tolmezzo-Villa Santina-Ovaro-Val Pesarina- Sella Ciampigotto
Or from Tolmezzo-Villa santina-Sappada-S.Stefano
From south: From Venezia to Belluno-Pieve di cadore-Vigo di Cadore-Sella Ciampigotto
Or from Pieve di Cadore to S.Stefano
A ) FROM THE BIG SOUTH LEDGE OF THE WEST SUMMIT TO THE THREE SUMMITS ( NORMAL ROUTE )
300 m MAX DIFF. UIAA II+
A-2) VARIANT THROUGH THE WESTERN DIHEDRAL OF THE WEST SUMMIT
140 m MAX DIFF. UIAA II+
This two are the most used routes. It can be interesting use one for the ascent and the other for the descent. People usually don't cross all the three summits but stop on Cima Ovest ( where you can find the summit book ), which it's not the main summit, even if there is only 1 meter of difference. Climbing the West and Main summit it's not much difficult ( max UIAA I+/II-) but there are exposed passages, the paths are marked only with stones and the place is very wild so it's better to have a little alpinistic experience. The climb of the East summit it's slightly more difficult ( UIAA II+).
B ) FROM THE NORTH SIDE OF THE WEST RIDGE TO THE WEST SUMMIT
160 m MAX DIFF. UIAA II
C ) FROM THE NORTH WEST FACE TO THE MAIN SUMMIT
350 m MAX DIFF. UIAA II
C-2) FROM THE RIGHT RAVINE ( VARIANT )
350 m MAX DIFF. UIAA II
D ) FROM THE NORTH EAST TO THE MAIN SUMMIT
580 m MAX DIFF. UIAA II
E ) FROM THE SOUTH SIDE AND THE EAST LEDGE OF THE EAST SUMMIT TO THE MAIN SUMMIT
220 m MAX DIFF. UIAA II
F ) FROM THE EAST-SOUTH EAST LEDGE OF THE EAST SUMMIT TO THE MAIN SUMMIT
190 m MAX DIFF. UIAA II
G) FROM THE SOUTH RAVINE BETWEEN THE MAIN SUMMIT AND THE EAST SUMMIT
400 m MAX DIFF. UIAA III
H) FROM THE SOUTH RAVINE BETWEEN THE MAIN SUMMIT AND THE WEST SUMMIT
400 m MAX DIFF. UIAA II
I) FROM THE SOUTH-SOUTH EAST EDGE OF THE WEST SUMMIT TO THE WEST SUMMIT
400 m MAX DIFF. UIAA III
L) VIA CRESTA DELLA VAL D'INFERNO
500 m MAX DIFF. UIAA IV-
M) VIA DIEDRO "DE INFANTI" - SOUTH FACE
395 m MAX DIFF. VI
N) TORRE DI VAL D'INFERNO
S.MICHELAZZI ( FREE-SOLO )
250 m MAX DIFF. VI-
When to Climb?The best season is from may to october. The southern side can be climbed sometimes in early spring and also in winter with the proper equipment.
Veneto weather forecast
Meteo Station Sella Ciampigotto
Red TapeNo limitations.
AccomodationRifugio Tenente Fabbro ( Sella Ciampigotto, 1783 m ) - tel. 0435 460357
Ricovero Casera federa Mauria ( Conca dei castellati, 1666 m )
Bivacco Ursella-Zandonella ( Ciadin Alto, 2000 m )
Bivacco Caimi al Cornon ( Monte Cornon north slopes, 2045 m )
Ricovero Spagnolli ( Popera Val grande, 2047 m )
Hotels in the area
Vigo di Cadore
Santo Stefano di Cadore
Albergo Krissin - S.Stefano
Casa soggiorno alpino
Hotel Diana - Laggio
Maps and BooksTabacco Maps
Tabacco 001 - Sappada - S.Stefano - Forni Avoltri
Tabacco 017 - Dolomiti di Auronzo e del Comelico
Tabacco 016 - Dolomiti di Centro Cadore
A. de Rovere - M. Di Gallo - Guida ai Monti d'Italia - Alpi Carniche vol II - C.A.I. - T.C.I.
R.Gaberscik - Guida escursionistica alle Alpi Carniche - Liberodiscrivere Editore
C.Ferri - Alpi Carniche e Dolomiti Friulane - Itinerari alpinistici dell'ottocento - Libreria Editrice Goriziana
R.Tremonti - Dolomiti e Prealpi di sinistra Piave - Panorama Editore
S. Tremonti - Sentieri di una vita 3° Dolomiti e Alpi Trivenete - Zanetti Danilo Editore
W. Musizza - G.Di Donà - Il forte di Monte Tudaio e le altre difese dell'oltre Piave - Editrice Ribis