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Monte Rotondo from Abetone
Route

Monte Rotondo from Abetone

 
Monte Rotondo from Abetone

Page Type: Route

Location: Toscana (Tuscany), Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.15709°N / 10.71244°E

Object Title: Monte Rotondo from Abetone

Route Type: Hiking, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Hike and protected climb

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Gangolf Haub

Created/Edited: Jun 16, 2009 / Jun 16, 2009

Object ID: 522061

Hits: 2060 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Overview

 
Monte Belvedere in front of the Monte Giovo Group
Vallone dei Faggi, through which the ascent route runs

The Libro Aperto main summit Monte Rotondo can be reached from the Abetone Pass in little more than two hours along aroute, which in most of its part is very easy. Only the last sections, first the climb of the northern summit, then the final climb to Monte Rotondo require some moderate climbing skills. The climb leads along loose sandstone blocks and is protected by a fixed rope in the very last section.

We climbed the mountain by the end of May and had to realize that much of the route was still covered in snow. The slopes are not steep so that danger remains low but the CAI (Italian Alpine Club) have marked the route on the rocks beside the route (instead of trees) which become invisible underneath the snow cover. Thus orientation turned into a serious issue in the middle part of the route.

Getting There

Slippery snow traverse in In Vallone dei Faggi
In Vallone dei Faggi

The main page of Libro Aperto describes how to get to Abetone from Bologna, Pisa and Firenze (Florence).

Route Description

Monte Belvedere during the ascent

  • General:
      - Start altitude: 1388m
      - Summit altitude: 1937m
      - Prevailing exposure: West, later east
      - Type: Easy until you reach the summit blocks, then steep scramble across loose blocks
      - Protection: 10m roped section underneath Monte Rotondo
  • Effort: 700m
  • Power: 1 - Easy
  • Psyche: 2 - Exposed during the climb to the summit
  • Difficulty: 2 - Steep scramble
  • Orientation: 1 - Marked and easy (difficult under snow cover)

    At the Abetone Pass two pyramids mark the border between Toscana and Emilia Romagna. From the pyramids turn right (north-west) and head up a side street into a residential area. The street turns right and after a few metres leaves the Abetone village. It heads through the dark BoscolungoForest, at first staying near the ridge. Pass a barrier and remain on the road (there is a marked trail to the left - don't take that). After about 30 minutes you reach a first saddle. Here you will find a fount and a picnic area.

    From the saddle there are three possibilities of how to go on.:
    1. Straight on across wooded Monte Maiori (no views)
    2. Right along a forest road, passing Monte Maiori to the south (no views)
    3. Left to the north of Monte Maiori (views towards Monte Giovo and Monte Prado

     
    Upper Vallone dei Faggi
     
     
    Looking back towards Monte Prado and Monte Cusna
     
     
    Monte Rotondo
     

    The three variations recombine in the La Verginetta Saddle, which was named for a statue of the Virgin Mary. Again, you will find a picnic area here. A few steps ahead you'll come across Rifugio Casetta di Lapo, a hunting shelter. Here the roads end and a path will take you into the beech forest underneath the Libro Aperto - Monte Cimone Ridge. You pass two creeks until you reach Vallone del Faggi, the valley which ends between the open pages of the Open Book, Libro Aperto. In its upper part the trail follows the western side of the Vallone, before heading across right under the summit of Monte Rotondo.
     
    Climbing the protected section
     
     
    The climb to the north-eastern summit
     
     
    Monte Rotondo north ridge
     

    Here the path turns northward and heads up the slopes of the Libro Aperto eastern summits, finally reaching a saddle to the north of the north-eastern summit. Turn south and climb across loose sandstone blocks onto said north-east summit. Climbing is UIAA I, the main challenge are the loose blocks. From the summit follow the ridge to the south-eastern summit, Monte Rotondo. To its north-east, pass the first tower, then head up a small cheimney towards the top. after some 5m a rope facilitates the traverse across sloped slabs before another blocky ridge traverse takes you to the top.

    Essential Gear

    Hiking gear is sufficient

    Images

    Monte RotondoSlippery snow traverse in In Vallone dei FaggiMonte Belvedere in front of the Monte Giovo GroupMonte Rotondo north ridgeLooking back towards Monte Prado and Monte CusnaClimbing the protected sectionUpper Vallone dei Faggi
    Monte BelvedereMonte Rotondo\'s north ridgeThe climb to the north-eastern summit