John Muir Wilderness > Mount Humphreys > Climber's LogMount Humphreys Climber's Log
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| TheNobleSunfish | SE Slope / SW Face  Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2012 | |
| Lots of loose junk on the approach, but otherwise beautiful! | |
| Posted Oct 1, 2012 1:36 pm | ||
| Say yes to crack | Finally Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2012 | |
| Finally, one of the best summit views around. Summer is much better than trying it several times in the winter | |
| Posted Jun 18, 2012 8:34 pm | ||
| Darren9 | Great route! Date Climbed: May 12, 2012 | |
| With Sierra Mountaineering Group, climbed E. Arete from Longley Reservoir, taking the alternate start up the snow couloir to the notch just below the peaklet. Ascended the standard route from there to summit and descended the North Couloir. Excellent rock, not too hard, summit pitch was the most fun. | |
| Posted May 24, 2012 3:41 am | ||
| danman3156 | Southeast Butress Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011 | |
| Fun route up a great mountain! Awesome views! | |
| Posted Nov 8, 2011 1:22 am | ||
| bc44caesar | East Arete Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2011 | |
| Climbed Peaklet from the east (unpleasant scree), then attempted to traverse the entire ridge to Humphreys. Stopped at two prominent towers, which would've required a 5th class downclimb harder than I cared to try. Had to retrace my steps a bit, downclimb, then make a long scree traverse to the saddle. Climbed the East Arete mostly on the crest, then took the gully between Humphreys and the prominent tower down. A little over 5 hrs to the summit from the car, maybe a bit under 3 hrs from the saddle to the summit. Ok route, not that classic though. | |
| Posted Aug 20, 2011 1:07 pm | ||
| dshoshone | East Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2011 | |
| Full East Ridge Trip Report: http://www.supertopo.com/tripreport/tripreport.php?articleid=11112 | |
| Posted Aug 13, 2011 11:10 am | ||
| mengbo | East Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2011 | |
| Climbed with Jean and Nate. Unforgettable experience. | |
| Posted Aug 11, 2011 3:02 am | ||
| mrchad9 | Southwest Chute Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011 | |
| An excellent solo trip up the southwest chutes and NW face. Near the chockstone I cut left and went up the next chute/ridge over. Fairly solid footing and even some good class 3 climbing up to the notch, then the highlights from there to the summit. Somewhat sunny on top but started hailing on the way down. | |
| Posted Aug 1, 2011 1:20 pm | ||
| Dow Williams | Mount Humphreys Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2011 | |
| Full East Arete. Great day out with Peter S. 2nd day in the Eastern Sierra, Cardinal Pinnacle offered exceptional crack climbing yesterday, Humphreys gave me an alpine fix today. 8hrs+ car to car. Creek crossing on return at 4:pm was no worries for any truck in my opinion. If from the Canadian Rockies, we would call this a difficult scramble. We soloed, no rope or harnesses. Really easy terrain, super solid rock for what I am use to. Ridge snow free for most part. We should have had alpine axes for a much quicker descent (then without) down the snow field at the col but doable without an ax, just not advised. Along with another solo individual, 2nd registered ascent of the season. Beautiful country. About 5800' total gain registered on watch, couple hundred feet lost to col. Like an Alpine III in the Canadian Rockies. Beautiful camp site by the creek. | |
| Posted Jun 29, 2011 12:45 pm | ||
| Vitaliy M. | Winter ascent Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011 | |
| With Mark. Full east arete 5.5. Cool classic line | |
| Posted Jun 19, 2011 2:21 pm | ||
| PellucidWombat | Full East Arete in Winter Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011 | |
| Vitaliy and I started at the saddle between Magic McGee & the 13,000 ft subpeak and climbed the entire ridge. Boots & packs made it more fun. So did the snow cave bivy from 100' below the summit plateau. | |
| Posted Feb 14, 2011 12:22 pm | ||
| Climber Dave | Freezing Winds on the Southwest Slope Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010 | |
| Climbed the Southwest Slope, freezing cold winds 30+ Mph was blowing snow from storm on the other side of Humphreys Basin on us. By the time we reached the summit we were so cold and the wind was blowing so hard, that we just signed in and bailed to get off before getting caught in a storm. Never even got to enjoy the view. Hope to be back, next time maybe the East Arete. | |
| Posted Feb 2, 2011 1:52 pm | ||
| PlanIt | Long walk in God's country | |
| Postholed in and soloed until a slide in a northfacing couloir almost killed me just below the summit of 13,123. Climbed up and over shaking and a little bloody. No harm done, lesson learned. | |
| Posted Jan 28, 2011 12:49 pm | ||
| Princess Buttercup | Standard (sort of) Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2010 | |
| Hiked up from Desolation Lake with my friend Len's son-in-law, who had never climbed in the Sierra before (or done a backpack, for that matter). What a freakin' blast! Nailed the route and loved every minute of it. | |
| Posted Sep 12, 2010 11:49 pm | ||
| gordonye | SW side Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010 | |
| Climbed with Hakan from Marmot Lake, belayed one pitch of class 4 (above the platform). The climb looked intimidating from the adjacent ridge above the notch, but it was a mellow one. We descended into a different gully based on a tip from climbers we met at the notch. Ended up making a 4th class traverse out of a lower gully, the traverse was over ledges covered with lots of loose rock. All in all a great day, we had the whole Humphreys basin to ourselves. | |
| Posted Sep 7, 2010 1:50 pm | ||
| Daria | Great climb Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2008 | |
| Great summit, fun 4th class route | |
| Posted Aug 15, 2010 9:03 pm | ||
| kraymes | East Arete Date Climbed: Oct 4, 1991 | |
| I really loved this route. I think more than anything is that I had the most vivid dreams of my life on the bivy. | |
| Posted May 22, 2010 6:15 pm | ||
| Tom Kenney | Nice Birthday Gift Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2009 | |
| Great climb! Very thrilling. Thanks, Sean. | |
| Posted Oct 24, 2009 7:12 pm | ||
| Sean Kenney | SW Slope/NW Face Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2009 | |
| PERFECT WEATHER!!! I climed with my brother Tom. We took our time and enjoyed the day. Stunning views! It's very dry up there now. | |
| Posted Sep 29, 2009 11:31 am | ||
| sardude | Did it Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2003 | |
| 100th anniversary climb | |
| Posted Sep 23, 2009 6:35 pm | ||
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