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Peak FreakRoute Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: August 24, 2003  Sucess!

Peak Freak

Another beautiful California trip. This time with Daniel & Ben. Gained some great experience on the most exposed "scrambling" I have encountered yet.
Posted Nov 19, 2003 1:53 am

Bill OttRoute Climbed: from the Lyell-Maclure saddle Date Climbed: July, 1994  Sucess!

Bill Ott

My Nephew waited at the saddle while I scrambled to the summit. What a view! We hurried back down as snow, hale, and rain soaked us, and of course yours truley had left the tent unzipped. The mosquitoes weren't too bad, but these retched flys kept biting us as we hiked Lyell Canyon.
Posted Aug 31, 2003 10:31 am

Matthew HollimanRoute Climbed: Lyell Glacier variation Date Climbed: July 19, 2003; Aug 1, 2004  Sucess!

Matthew Holliman

This turned out to be an epic day hike from Tuolumne Meadows during some unusually unsettled Sierra weather. I left too late (5am), took longer than I expected to make it up to the peak (met fellow SPers Misha and Etsuko on the way up), and was but a few yards from the summit when I heard a boom and saw lightning just a few hundred yards away. Getting off the summit ridge seemed a higher priority than signing the summit register.



The only exit was down the Lyell Glacier, which was the target of that first strike, so I spent a very scary half hour crouched in a chute somewhere on Lyell's north face--it seemed about the safest place I could find up there. Made it back down as the storm subsided. There's a long-winded TR on my website.



Came back in early August 2004 for a Maclure/Lyell dayhike out of Tuolumne Meadows--this went a fair bit better than my first trip. I'd left my crampons behind this time to save weight, and with only an ice axe, found the exit onto the rock from the glacier to be a bit spicy... I had to chop steps in the icy snow for tenuous footholds. I'd take the crampons if I went back again.
Posted Jul 21, 2003 10:24 am

MishaRoute Climbed: One of the Lyell Glacier variations Date Climbed: July 19, 2003  Sucess!

Misha

After craving for Lyell climb for more than a year, kiwifzzz and I finally summited it via Lyell Glacier. Originally, we planned to climb East Arete but since I conveniently forgot my shades in our camp (doh!!!), we decided to keep our snow exposure to the minimum and headed up one of the chutes to the left of the saddle. It turned out to be a great route! Snow steepened towards the end and exited on the ~100' Class 3 section that led us to the summit plateau. From there it was an easy scramble to the summit. We climbed up both West (lower) and the higher East summit blocks. After leaving a note in the register and observing rapidly approaching storm clouds, we scrapped our Maclure plans and ran back down. As it turned out, we were too late and got caught up in the brutal hailstorm on the way down to our tent. What a great mountain and an epic journey!!! We will come back to climb Maclure next year.
Posted Jul 21, 2003 8:55 am

gordonyeRoute Climbed: East Ridge from Marie Lakes Date Climbed: August 24, 2002

gordonye

My partner Vladimir Ulyashin reached the summit. I reached 200 feet below on East Ridge where I couldn't progress beyond the class 4-5 gendarmes (Vladimir followed the ridge all the way by down climbing each gendarme, then climbing up). Secor's book advises to drop down to the East Arrete route when stopped by the gendarmes, but I was confused about where East Arrete was.



Very exciting trip (free climbing) with two knife ridge traverses, the first one is the ridge connecting Lyell with Rodgers Peak, mostly class 3; the second and more difficult one is the east ridge of Lyell between the first east side col and the summit.
Posted Aug 27, 2002 2:59 pm

Bob BurdRoute Climbed: Lyell Glacier Date Climbed: Aug. 5, 2001  Sucess!

Bob Burd

Day 2 of the Sierra Emblem Challenge 2001. This is a long and arduous dayhike from Tuolumne Meadows, even in great weather (which we had). We attempted to climb the East Arete, but were rebuffed, as it was class 5 (not the class 3 seen other years) due to low snow. Summited via the snow chute directly under the summit, near the middle of the glacier. Descent route was all on rocks down to the Lyell-Maclure Col.
Posted Aug 19, 2001 3:11 pm

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