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Mount Russell Climber's Log

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balajisvRoute Climbed: East ridge via Rockwell variation Date Climbed: Aug 1 2004  Sucess!


The ridge was the best part of the climb. However you try to get to it, it's a slog.
Posted Aug 11, 2004 8:35 pm

BranchWhitneyRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: 8/31/2002  Sucess!
Fun route, much better than the Mountaineers Route up Whitney.
Posted Aug 5, 2004 2:57 am

MgrossRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: July 9, 2004


Take the Rockwell Variation!!! Do not follow the footsteps leading Northeast from Upper Boy Scout Lake (those were from people descending). You will be in for the most gravelly sandy climb of your life and if its slightly hot, you'll drain in no time and be on your hands and knees. This is a beautiful trek up the Whitney Mountaineers Route. ( However you may need a machete for the "riparian" sections).
Posted Jul 19, 2004 6:56 pm

brandonRoute Climbed: Mithral Dihedral Date Climbed: June 2004  Sucess!


Man, is this a cold route. It's in the shade when everything else, I mean everything except the 5 foot strip of arctic you are in, is sunny. 3 pitches of 5.9 in the dihedral if you belay at the logical two stances. Lots of ridge climbing to the summit.
Posted Jul 6, 2004 6:45 pm

spinefxrRoute Climbed: South Headwall, West Side Date Climbed: June 6, 2004  Sucess!


Highly recommend this route. Nice Class III wall at the end. The weather was perfect. No wind and you could see forever.
Posted Jun 10, 2004 12:20 pm

GuiltyRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: May 30, 04  Sucess!


Traverse from Mt. Carillon to Russell to Muir, and to Whitney. Finishing at Lower Boy Scout for a nice day hike!
Posted Jun 3, 2004 3:26 am

CompletebumRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 8, 2003  Sucess!


We hiked up the NF to UBSL as a training hike for the MR on whitney the following day. Felt great and it was only 11 so we went up the East Ridge on Russell, summited by 2 and decended the last 200 feet of the ridge in a classic Sierra T-storm.
Posted Apr 25, 2004 11:26 pm

RSN473Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: July 14, 2001  Sucess!


Sustained 3rd class climbing at it's best.
Posted Mar 4, 2004 11:58 am

RobtRoute Climbed: E. Ridge Date Climbed: Oct. 2002  Sucess!


Posted Nov 5, 2003 3:43 pm

TDRobertsRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: Oct. 10 '03  Sucess!


Awsome! Best non-technical climb I have ever done. Exposure was just enough to keep all senses on high alert. Climbing was always fun, with no real difficulty but enough challenge to keep it interesting (unlike other climbs that turn into nothing more than boring scree / talus hiking).
Posted Oct 20, 2003 9:23 am

Rick KentRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 23 2003  Sucess!

Rick Kent

This was the most rewarding peak I've climbed so far. Did a solo dayhike. It looked intimidating and that's probably what made it so rewarding. It's not as bad as it looks and I never had to go over anything that exceeded class 3. I'll definitely be doing this one again some time.
Posted Oct 9, 2003 3:02 pm

GuiltyRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: 08/25/98 and 09/30/00  Sucess!


Solo from trailhead. Roundtrip under 7hrs in 1998, and traverse to Whitney in 2000.
Posted Oct 7, 2003 8:37 pm

thebeave7Route Climbed: Rockwell variation/East ridge Date Climbed: Sept 10, 2003  Sucess!


Another successful solo summit. Though I will have to admit the traverse made me a little nervous at times. The most exhilarating peak I've done to date, finished in 9 hours from the portal(blah).
Posted Sep 11, 2003 7:32 pm

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 10, 2003  Sucess!
Pretty awesome mountain. Left the portal at 12:30 am Summited at 8:40 am (I spent about 1 hr scrambling on Mt. Carillon), came down the South Face Right Side. From there I climbed Whitney and Muir. 3 peaks in one day on my 33rd birthday. What a party!
Posted Aug 11, 2003 11:52 pm

Dave KRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 9,2003  Sucess!
We had a great time climbing the airy east ridge. We downclimbed the South Slope, dropped to Iceberg Lake and had jaw-dropping views of Whitney and Keeler Needle.
Posted Aug 10, 2003 7:47 pm

PellucidWombatRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: 7/5/03  Sucess!


Great climb! It definitely has been the most exposed route that I've done to date. I climbed this peak with Suet Fei Li and Joel Wilson as part of a trip with CHAOS.

I've gotta come back to try the Russell-Whitney Traverse that Bob Burd did in the '02 Sierra Challenge.
Posted Jul 8, 2003 12:13 pm

DigglerRoute Climbed: E Arete Date Climbed: 28 July, 2001  Sucess!


Ascent #1: Started from Whitney Portal @ 5.22. Got altitude sickness @ Upper Boy Scout Lake, but perservered until attaining true summit. Felt sick as a dog by this point, and veg'ed for an hour and a half. Made it back to parking lot by 21.20- long day. Trip report.

#2: Fishhook ArĂȘte with G-Town. Started route @ 9.38, summited at 16.48. An exceptional, superb, exhilirating climb up an amazing peak. Bomber rock, good pro', stimulating exposure! The ridge ends AT the summit (& the technical climbing maybe 15' below)! Can really fly up upper part of ridge as is not as sustained as lower part (most of the upper pitches I placed 3 pieces or less per pitch, & none on one of them). Did in 9 (or was it 10?) pitches to lessen rope drag. Awesome day on a great route with a good friend/climbing partner. There is nothing (required) harder on this route than 5.8.

#3. Traverse from 'Mt. Morgenson.' After starting from the Whitney Portal TH @ 6.14, summited Morgenson @ 10.24. Hung out on the summit for about 1/2 an hour, then followed Bob, Sean, & Rick as they made their way towards Russell. I must point out that as soon as Sean told me they were leaving, I chugged my beer then followed- they were long gone by this point. While the climber in me initially tried to stick to the true ridge, I realized that unless I wanted to take all day, this wouldn't be feasible (at a certain point I would have wanted a rope, too, which I didn't have). So at a certain point I swallowed my pride, dropped down, & just tried to find the easiest way over to the 'base' of Russell. I will iterate that this traverse is non-trivial; in fact, I wouldn't recommend it to anybody. A far more sane thing to do would be to just drop down to the basin below, & walk back along it to where Russell begins. Trust me. "3rd to 4th class" my ass. Regardless, think I summited around 12.50 or so. Departed summit at 13.15, down to the Russell-Carillon col (thanks for the suggestion, guys), to Clyde Meadow (nice to meet up with & hang with you 'til the end, JD), to the Portal! Back at the standard route beginning @ 16.37. . What a f$%!ing day

#4: Mithral Dihedral (6.13.'12)
w/ Faith. Route lived up to the hype & expectations I'd created through the years (which is amazing)- classic climb up one of the coolest & most sustained dihedrals I've ever laid eyes upon... THE dihedral was MONEY!!! The preceding, 'warm-up' dihedral was fun, too. Great day!
Posted Mar 18, 2003 8:07 am

RomainRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: January 18, 2003


Winter attempt of the East ridge of Russell, with Rene' Renteria and Chris Burke. Unfortunately, we did not make the summit. We did reach the East summit (the lower one of the two) at 3 pm, and winter days are short. We decided to return to the Russell-Carillon saddle so as to not be taken by the night while on the ridge. Next time we will leave earlier in the morning. The route is long, especially in winter condition when the snow on the ridge requires extra caution. I have posted a full TR with photos TR here.
Posted Jan 24, 2003 12:54 am

agorokhovRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 2002
Posted Jan 3, 2003 3:22 pm

rmjwintersRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: July 5 2002  Sucess!


Beautiful weather and quite a slog up. East ridge was easy and pleasant. See trip report for more details.
Posted Oct 6, 2002 6:35 pm

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