Mount Shuksan Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2005
|My Son and I finally did the North Face using parts of three days. Please take a look at the NF Route description. I hope summitposters will add some info or give the route a try. Super route.|
|Posted May 5, 2006 12:59 am|
|km_donovan||Sulphide Glacier Route |
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2002
|A great day with friends. Spectacular weather but a bit windy on the summit.|
|Posted Apr 16, 2006 2:47 am|
|ericd||Sulphide Glacier |
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2003
|Possible in a day, took a little longer due to an accident. Top pyramid was hard ice, saw my friend whiz by me airborn, then was pulled 300' in self arrest position to ease/break his fall. Banged up bad. Helicopter came 2 hrs later. A winter wonderland.|
|Posted Mar 28, 2006 10:21 pm|
|Fuggedaboudit||Sulphide Glacier |
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2003
|My first Summit! Great time with a great group. Rock pyramid is a great way to finish, though not much fun in Scarpa Invernos!|
|Posted Mar 26, 2006 10:29 pm|
|Snidely Whiplash||Sulphide Glacier Route |
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1984
|What a climb! My first Cascade summit. Downclimbing that summit gully was pretty scary.|
|Posted Feb 23, 2006 4:10 pm|
|missadventure||Route Climbed: sulphide glacier Date Climbed: july 12 2001|
|we did this route in one day from the parking lot. it was a hella fun route, especially the rock bit at the summit pinnacle|
|Posted Feb 8, 2006 11:12 pm|
|setrent||Route Climbed: Sulphide Date Climbed: 17 Feb, 2005|
|Sixteen hours car to car on skis. The snow lower down was crusty and hard to ski, but the pyramid gully made for great cramponing. A great day. Climbed the NF on 30 May 08. A great route, would recommend it to anyone. Climbed the North Face spring 2008. Another asthetic climb up the beautiful peak.|
|Posted Dec 22, 2005 8:40 pm|
|mandrake||Route Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2004|
|Terrific weather & group. Camped up at the high camp with awesome 360-degree views.|
|Posted Oct 31, 2005 7:38 pm|
|slowpoke||Route Climbed: Sulphide Date Climbed: September 11, 2005|
|Cloudy at camp, awoke to a few inches of new snow which melted off by mid-day. Summit pyramid was wet. Clouds broke when we reached the summit to give us some views.|
|Posted Sep 13, 2005 10:22 am|
|dicey||Route Climbed: sulfide Date Climbed: July 2002|
|new snow on summit pyramid, so we climbed the gully up the face|
|Posted Sep 4, 2005 2:03 pm|
|thundercloud||Route Climbed: Fisher Chimneys Date Climbed: July 23, 2005|
|Climbed with good group of Mazamas, party of 6. Finding the start of the chimneys is a little tricky in darkness and low clouds, even for those that have climbed the route before. Snow and crevasse bridges in good shape. Finished the pyramid doing the SE Rib/Ridge (simul-climb) which is much more fun and solid than the standard central gully. A few pieces of smallish rock pro were used on this portion, and our group used the four pickets we carried for the steeper pitches of the glacier route. Completed ascent in under 8 hours, and descent under 7 hours, at leisurely and secure pace. Good transition management essential. Used brain bucket the entire day, and yes it came in handy on the descent thru the chimneys. Excellent route, great climb day above the clouds.|
|Posted Jul 31, 2005 2:56 pm|
|amochka||Route Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: July 24, 2005|
|Wow, what a climb! Hike up to base camp from end of Shannon Creek camp road was a slog, over steep exposed roots and a lot of plant overgrowth. Great hike once out of the forest. Got up to base camp in afternoon, weather holding, but a lot of cloud cover obscuring the summit. |
Started up the glacier at 6:30 am, which we figured out later was much too late. This was a busy place, with a lot of large groups heading up to the summit. Nice trip up the glacier...wanded the route in case of white out later.
Base of gulley on summit pyramid was a traffice jam of people heading up and down. Waiting for a large team to all rappel down put us back two hours. Gulley treacherous in places due to soft very steep snow, wet rocks, loose crap being dislodged from above, etc. I had a few 'high tone' moments in the gulley and pushed ahead despite being a bit wigged about it. Made the summit at 3 pm. Clouds swirled around and looked to be creating a potential white out..
Thankfully, another group that summited after us agreed that a double rappel would be the fastest way to get all the people off the summit, so we combined ropes, and descended the gulley with two long rappels as opposed to four.
Great descent......clouds disappeared and then one of the most amazing sunsets I've ever seen on the way down. Arrived at camp just at the moment that headlamps would be necessary.
Great climb, but definitely be prepared for anything, and if you bring rock pro, you could avoid having to deal with the gulley at all and could take the ridge, as suggested in cluck's entry in the summit log. We watched multiple teams trot up and down the ridge while we were still part way up the gulley.
FYI: you must use the composting toilet up at the base of sulphide glacier....a total zen moment to yourself with awe inspiring views of baker from the throne. Not your average backcountry scat experience.
|Posted Jul 26, 2005 6:38 pm|
|mekwise||Route Climbed: Fisher Chimneys Date Climbed: July 4th, 2005|
|What a full fun filled day! About 17 hours of hiking, scrambling, glacier crossing and descending back to Lake Ann. We had the full weather experience with great weather most of the day, rain and fog on the summit.|
|Posted Jul 10, 2005 11:32 am|
|forjan||Route Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: July 6, 2005|
|Well, I got a good taste of North Cascades climbing. Hiked with agorokhov and ClimbingSnow. We started from the Shannon Ridge trailhead (2500') just before noon on still partly cloudy skies. Then, half an hour into our approach, clouds started to come in. By the time we reached the North Cascades National Park boundary sign (at ~ 4700') at 3:30pm, clouds were very dark and it started to rain. Then, up the hill to the pass/saddle. Visibility less than 100 yards from here on. More and more rain.....we got quite soaked. We finally & quickly made camp at 6200' (about 50 yards uphill from the toilet). We tried our best to dry out all 3 of us on a small 2-man tent. It was crowded in there with Alex and David. It rained all night long....not only that, then the winds picked up and it howled most of the night. None of us got any sleep at all. By 8:30am next morning, we said f*** it, broke camp and headed down. All 3 of us got even more soaked on the walk-out (it had been raining now for over 20 hours...and was still raining!!) When we reached the trailhead, it looked like the 3 of us came out from a swim with all our clothes on......completely drenched in rain water. Ah.....the fun of North Cascades climbing! Bring several umbrellas!|
|Posted Jul 7, 2005 4:36 pm|
|iluka||Route Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: May 2001|
|We took the coulouir up in the midst of a really hot stretch which left the snow in there quite soft and easy to punch through. Found myself up to my chest in one or two spots but managed to get up and get some great views.|
|Posted May 25, 2005 12:13 pm|
|esugi||Route Climbed: Sulphide Glacier Date Climbed: 5/14/05|
|Camped at approx. 6000 ft on the glacier. Weather was horrible. Climbed in rain the entire time with visibility often less then 100 ft. Everything we had on were wet. Very soft snow made for tough climbing. We reached the base of summit pyramid (thanks to our GPS) but we wised up and headed back down. |
I'll be back in August and hope for better weather next time.
|Posted May 22, 2005 7:23 am|
|mt_daydream||Route Climbed: Sulphide glacier Date Climbed: April 29-30, 2005|
|Loads of fresh snow after 10 am. We did not bring snowshoes (or skis) and hence had a lengthy slog upto high camp at 6500 ft on the sulphide glacier. Conditions were near perfect the next morning though. Mike and I started for the summit at 3:30 am and had firm snow all the way to the top. It got cloudy and started snowing once we were at the base of the pyramid. Conditions were perfect on the couloir though - firm snow and ice at parts all the way up. Sustained at 45 degrees with several sections of 50-55 degrees. Downclimbing the pyramid was fun!|
There were hardly any crevasses on the west end of the Sulphide glacier at this time. The one visible crevasse had a thick snowbridge across.
So, bring snowshoes/skis, and extra ice tool for the summit pyramid, and get a real early start on the summit day.
|Posted May 1, 2005 10:34 pm|
|Dan Winter||Route Climbed: Sulphide glacier Date Climbed: 8/28-8/29/99|
|Approach day was all about the black flies. Summit day we were treated with pouring rain. Got to the top and looked at the beautiful fog. Got cold shivered for a while and came down. A great trip!|
|Posted Mar 25, 2005 2:56 am|
|Phil Decker||Route Climbed: Fisher Chimneys Date Climbed: August 8 2004|
|19 Hours and 10 minutes of fun!|
What a hell of a day!
|Posted Oct 13, 2004 10:00 pm|
|jtschanz||Route Climbed: Fisher Chimneys Date Climbed: July 25, 2004|
|Climbed this fun route with a group of Chemeketans from camp near Lake Ann. This climb has it all - rock scrambling, steep snow, crevassed glaciers, and great views. The chimneys were easier than I expected on the way up, and harder on the way down (we did not do any rappels). Instead of taking the center gully up the summit block, I climbed the SE Ridge. This was fantastic climbing on solid rock with only a few somewhat scary, exposed moves. We spent quite a while on the summit before beginning the tedious downclimb through the gully, the glacier descent, and more tedious downclimbing through the chimneys.|
|Posted Jul 27, 2004 6:05 pm|