Yosemite National Park > Mount Starr King > Climber's LogMount Starr King Climber's Log
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| dkangas | SE Saddle  Date Climbed: Oct 19, 2012 | |
| Perfect summer day in October on a really fun route! It was a lot better protected than I thought it would be from reading beta. The run-out sections are not bad at all: they are short and offer lots of juicy contours. I agree with the 5.0 rating. The route is very obvious once you're on it. On the rappels, I would say this: after diligently studying the beta on how to do two rappels with a 60m rope, and feeling very confident about it, we STILL found it impossible to do! Whatever we tried, the math did not work--we ended 10 feet short of everything we tried from the top rappel anchor. We rapped down to a small ledge, about 4 inches wide and 3 feet long, where I set up an anchor for a down-lead to the rap anchor at the top of the first flake. Bottom line: Secor is right--take two ropes if you want a seamless rap with no downclimbing. Otherwise, be prepared to improvise. It took us 4 hours exactly to summit from the Mono Meadows TH. | ||
| Posted Oct 20, 2012 2:05 am | ||
| wmolland | East Face Date Climbed: Oct 16, 2012 | |
| The route was fun and not overly difficult. Might as well climb this if you're bring a rope and rack up with you. | |
| Posted Oct 19, 2012 9:04 pm | ||
| seano | Up NE, down SE Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2012 | |
| Traversed it on the (very long) way to Clark. Fun, and not very hard, even in running shoes, if you're comfortable on slabs. Trip report. | |
| Posted Sep 27, 2012 8:39 pm | ||
| bobpickering | SE Saddle Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2012 | |
| Solo climb from Mono Meadow TH. I stumbled onto a bees' nest while bushwhacking on the approach and got stung twice. I've soloed the SE Buttress on Cathedral Pk. and the N Ridge on Conness many times, and the friction sections on Star King seemed just as hard to me. I should have brought a partner and a rope. Overall, a nice climb. 5:48, car to car. | |
| Posted Aug 20, 2012 2:59 am | ||
| ElGreco | E Face Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012 | |
| With Chad. Easy 1st and 4th pitches. By no means a death trap, but some questionable rock and tricky placements on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. I will include more details on the route page. Three rappel anchors on the SE saddle. Killer summit views! Yosemite Valley and many of its formations, Lyell, Clark and Cathedral range, Sawtooth ridge and more. | |
| Posted Aug 10, 2012 3:23 pm | ||
| mrchad9 | East Face Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012 | |
| To make it more of a climb we took the east face route up rather than the standard from the saddle. ElGreco did a great job on lead with some rock that was definitely not so great. Weather cooperated and had really nice views. Descended the SE saddle like just about everyone else. | |
| Posted Aug 6, 2012 1:11 pm | ||
| gordonye | North side Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2012 | |
| With Vlad, Hakan and Erhan, probably the 5.4 route. A lot of bush-wacking on the approach. | |
| Posted Jul 23, 2012 1:19 am | ||
| bechtt | SE Saddle Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2012 | |
| Laura led the first pitch while I led the second. Simultaneously belayed Laura and Bill up that second pitch in windy conditions so I couldn't hear a thing they were yelling. | |
| Posted Jun 25, 2012 4:53 pm | ||
| lizklevy | Long day from Glacier Point | |
| Day hiked from Glacier Point to avoid the creek. Led both pitches. It was a long day, but as usual, a great one! | |
| Posted Jun 10, 2012 3:57 pm | ||
| Daria | With Mt. Clark Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2011 | |
| Love friction slabs-nice easy climb | |
| Posted Oct 22, 2011 9:29 pm | ||
| asmrz | The East Face Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2011 | |
| Penelope May and I did this very good and very seldom climbed route for her 60th Birthday on August 10, 2011. The summit register had one previous ascent of the East Face in the last 12 years. The summit view is just magnificent, from Yosemite Valley to Tuolumne Meadows to the Clark and Ritter Ranges, everywhere you look you see domes and peaks. We found this summit to be one of the most beautiful in the Sierra. | |
| Posted Aug 26, 2011 4:41 pm | ||
| Vitaliy M. | Dayhiked Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2010 | |
| fun day with Mark, Max, Blaise | |
| Posted Jul 29, 2011 4:19 pm | ||
| NoSam | SE Route Date Climbed: Oct 21, 2010 | |
| Matt and I day hiked from Mono Meadows. We watched the clouds all around us move in, but clear right above. We roped up and I lead first pitch. Good long day. | ||
| Posted Oct 23, 2010 2:15 pm | ||
| PellucidWombat | via NE Face (not Bob's route?) Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2010 | |
| Dayhiked from Happy Isles with Vitaliy, Max, & Blazin. Followed N Ridge from Panorama Trail junction over Pt. 8,574 (horrendous bushwacking!). We decided to try Bob's NE side route. The class 3 scramble up and to a belay ledge to the right went according to plan, but we never saw the 2" crack described. Seemingly protectable cracks turned out to be seams. Apart from one where I dug out grass & dirt with my pinkie to make a cam placement, I mostly had to run it out (45 foot runouts on the 1st pitch, which seemed about 5.4-5.5, and about a 100 ft runout on the 2nd cl. 4-low 5th pitch, on sketchy pro). There was a piton at the first belay though (70m from the belay ledge - it was fortunate we brought 1 70m double rope!). Not quite what we expected, but plenty fun! We also watched some big wall climbers on Liberty Cap from Nevada falls for about an hour, and 'bouldered' on the nice hand-fist crack, finger crack, and short fist crack at the lookout. | |
| Posted Oct 11, 2010 4:17 am | ||
| Misha | Early season summit (x2) Date Climbed: May 30, 2010 | |
| Climbed with Mike while Connie and Maria were suntanning on the SE Saddle. Spots of snow and runoff made for a more adventurous climb. Runouts on wet granite are always exciting! We were the first to the summit this year. Saw two bears on the way back. Stunning scenery all around | |
| Posted May 31, 2010 4:21 pm | ||
| haishan | First backcountry climb Date Climbed: Oct 19, 1997 | |
| Day hiked from Mono Meadows, SE saddle route | |
| Posted Sep 28, 2009 1:38 am | ||
| jflo | First Mountaineers Peak Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2009 | |
| Runout first pitch was only my third lead. Slab descent a bit spicier than it looked - had come up from the other side of the saddle. Saw a bear on the trail back - nice. | |
| Posted Sep 17, 2009 6:17 pm | ||
| ylamurto | SE Saddle Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2009 | |
| Summited alone in rain and hail when everybody else had turned around. | |
| Posted Jun 15, 2009 12:52 pm | ||
| gjonbelay | SE Saddle September 27 1999 Date Climbed: Sep 27, 1999 | |
| George Sinclair led me up this peak during a 3 day trip that included Mt. Clark. After climbing Clark we moved our camp below Starr King. This late in the season we were lucky to find a small creek close to the route that we could camp next to. Trip Report | |
| Posted Mar 14, 2009 4:28 pm | ||
| farrisgl | SE Saddle Route Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2002 | |
| My friend Paul and I camped at the Merced Pass trail junction and Clark Creek. From here to the Starr King Saddle was class 2 and no water source. Our first pitch was definitely 5.4 + up to the well established belay point with about 10 slings. We did it as a class 4 to the summit. In reviewing the climbing log I was amazed how few people summit this fine peak so close to Yosemite Valley every year. By my count, in reading the summit register, less than 25 people per year. Compare that to Half Dome just 4 miles away (as the crow flies) with what 10,000 +++ per year? | |
| Posted Feb 28, 2009 11:20 am | ||
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