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Mount Starr King Climber's Log

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ylamurtoSE Saddle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2009

ylamurto

Summited alone in rain and hail when everybody else had turned around.
Posted Jun 15, 2009 12:52 pm

gjonbelaySE Saddle September 27 1999  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 27, 1999

gjonbelay

George Sinclair led me up this peak during a 3 day trip that included Mt. Clark. After climbing Clark we moved our camp below Starr King. This late in the season we were lucky to find a small creek close to the route that we could camp next to.

Trip Report
Posted Mar 14, 2009 4:28 pm

farrisglSE Saddle Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2002

farrisgl

My friend Paul and I camped at the Merced Pass trail junction and Clark Creek. From here to the Starr King Saddle was class 2 and no water source. Our first pitch was definitely 5.4 + up to the well established belay point with about 10 slings. We did it as a class 4 to the summit. In reviewing the climbing log I was amazed how few people summit this fine peak so close to Yosemite Valley every year. By my count, in reading the summit register, less than 25 people per year. Compare that to Half Dome just 4 miles away (as the crow flies) with what 10,000 +++ per year?
Posted Feb 28, 2009 11:20 am

leftySE Saddle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2008

lefty

My first multi-pitch in the Sierra.
Posted Aug 20, 2008 12:51 am

catullusfirst lead!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 19, 2007

catullus

Climbed SE Saddle with Jessie Liu. Pretty runout. The crux moves are a long way away from any crack systems. Took four raps to get down with a 60m rope. Augmented one of the rap stations with some new webbing and biners. First entry in the summit log since late october! Some entries date back to the 1980s. Cool!
Posted Nov 20, 2007 8:28 pm

tb00957SE saddle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007
RJ gives it 5.0, I would rate the 1st pitch about 5.5, a bit runout but fun.
Posted Aug 3, 2007 12:38 pm

Bill KishSE Saddle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 19, 2007

Bill Kish

SE Saddle from Mono Meadow with Seth. First summit register entry of 2007! On rappel we found one of the fixed pitons to be very loose, so we traversed to climbers right to an alternate rappel station. Afterwards we camped on the middle summit enjoying perfect summer-like weather. 2X June 10, 2012, BAMM Summit Bivy!
Posted May 20, 2007 10:27 pm

DigglerSE Saddle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2006

Diggler

Hiked in on Saturday, camping on top of the middle dome, which was wonderful. Camping on top of a huge, high, exposed piece of rock like that in the Rockies just wouldn’t be possible (you’d risk getting fried)- gotta love the Sierra (near) summers!

Woke up the next morning, & went up from the saddle. Concurring with Morgan (mpbro), I personally think that 5.0 is a sandbag- I’d call it a 5.4. Regardless, it was an exhilarating & fun route. Signed the summit register, admired the sublime views, & carefully descended the ascent route (which actually went a lot faster than I thought!). Left ‘camp’ (i.e. summit of middle dome) at 10.45, returning to the trailhead 4:03 afterwards (river crossings were time consuming).

Two notes to would-be summiters: I’d recommend being comfortable leading at least 5.4 when attempting this route (esp. as some of the cruxes are face climbing with no protection opportunities until the next crack system is reached). Also, if Illilouette Creek is running full, I’d recommend going R (if coming from Mono Meadows), i.e. SE, for approximately 5 min, until passing the “S” curve. Past the gravel bar, the creek widens out, such that it is (comparatively) relatively shallow across- this is just a recommendation, though- check conditions before committing!
Posted Jun 12, 2006 4:15 pm

mountainmattSE Saddle  Sucess!

mountainmatt

Led the run-out first pitch on a Starr King run with a buddy and his girl EARLY spring '05
Posted Mar 18, 2006 6:32 am

Antonio GenissimoA climbing day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2003

Antonio Genissimo

Myself, wife and friends, Mark & Gail Schelnker climbed the 5.4 (?) route. Lovely climb, nice weather, but we had a sort of sketchy descent.
Posted Feb 28, 2006 9:24 pm

RobtRoute Climbed: 5.2 Date Climbed: July 2, 2005  Sucess!

Robt

Led by Bob Suzuki and Jim Ramaker. To Mt. Clark the next day.
Posted Dec 13, 2005 1:23 pm

forjanRoute Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: October 8, 2005

forjan

We climbed as two parties of 2; I climbed with Juan Carlos Marvizon and ming21 climbed with Dave Van Selow. I found the lower section of the class 3+ friction gully to have some spicy moves since I was wearing regular tennis shoes with non-sticky rubber soles. The SE Saddle climb itself was straightforward; we descended the same class 3+ friction gully; I wore my climbing shoes for this descent. All in all, great company on a great setting.
Posted Oct 11, 2005 3:32 pm

cottersnowRoute Climbed: SE saddle Date Climbed: 6-19-05  Sucess!
Definitely good fun. Good way to escape the crowds on the weekends.
Posted Aug 4, 2005 6:42 pm

Matthew HollimanRoute Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: May 21, 2005  Sucess!

Matthew Holliman

What Rob said below. Cool scramble up to the saddle, and a fun climb to the summit from there too. I'll have to go back to climb the northeast side some time.
Posted Jul 8, 2005 1:14 am

rhyangRoute Climbed: SE saddle Date Climbed: 21-May-2005  Sucess!

rhyang

Climbed with Matthew Holliman. Started from Happy Isles trailhead in Yosemite Valley. Got soaked by the spray from Vernal Falls on the way up. Streams were running down the trail on the way up from Nevada Falls. Approach to the base of the 3rd class friction took us about 4 hours, with some , ah, wonderful bushwhacking (according to NG Topo it was about 7 miles / 4000'). No significant snow remained on the trail.



The 750' friction climb to the saddle seemed like class 3+; I decided to get my rock shoes out for this, but Matthew did it in approach shoes. There was some snow at the base of the slabs, but it was not a problem.



Matthew led the route from the saddle in two pitches with a 50m rope as per the route page. Rapped down three times; replaced and / or augmented the slings we found. The last rap from the pitons kind of spooked me, since it traversed right, with the potential for some pendulum action over steeper ground. Kicking myself - should have brought a 60m rope for this.



The weather was pretty much perfect, with excellent views. Snow remained on the north-facing slopes. We descended the class 2 route over the middle dome.



btw Misha & Etsuko's entries in the summit log were the most recent.
Posted May 22, 2005 3:54 pm

MishaRoute Climbed: Somewhere on the SE Face Date Climbed: October 10, 2004  Sucess!

Misha

Etsuko and I climbed this awesome peak from Mono Meadows on a beautiful fall day. It was weird going through the pine tree and manzanita forest completely devastated by the recent fire. Some of the trees were still smoking. We hiked up to the saddle on the right side of the "central peak", went over the "central peak" to the SE saddle and since we had no route beta with us, just climbed what looked doable on the SE face. It felt like 5.5-5.6 in places, with a couple of runouts on the 2nd pitch.
Posted Oct 12, 2004 12:11 pm

danbknoxRoute Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: July, 11, 2004  Sucess!

danbknox

This was an epic one day trip with Joe Hanssen. 25 hours on the move door to door from the SF Bay. I had some altitude issues with going up all in one day, but it was well worth the trip! The climb was easy but a nice warm up to the summer.
Posted Sep 12, 2004 10:33 am

ncfittonRoute Climbed: Southeast saddle Date Climbed: June 26th 2004  Sucess!

ncfitton

Fun solo with an overnight bivy at the base of the gully, see trip report for details.
Posted Jun 28, 2004 11:01 am

Bob BurdRoute Climbed: Northeast Side (ascent) / Southeast Saddle (descent) Date Climbed: Feb 8, 2003  Sucess!

Bob Burd

Started at 5:15a from Curry Village, up the JMT to Nevada Falls, then cross-country over snow to the north side of the summit. Used crampons and ski poles to ascend the 40 degree snow-covered slope, arriving at 10:30a. Changed to rock shoes to descend to the Southeast Saddle. Headed west towards Illilouette Creek, then climbed to Glacier Point, arriving at 3:15p. I then went down the snow-filled chute just west of Glacier Point to take the quick descent back to the Valley. Used crampons for about half the descent, before I could boulder-hop and slide down the loose slopes to Curry Village. Back to the car at 5:45p. Long day, but great fun! Trip Report
Posted Feb 9, 2003 9:16 pm

scottybRoute Climbed: SW Saddle Date Climbed: August 16, 2002  Sucess!

scottyb

Great solo day hike from mono meadows
Posted Aug 26, 2002 11:08 pm

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