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Mount Starr King Climber's Log

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leftySE Saddle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2008

lefty

My first multi-pitch in the Sierra.
Posted Aug 20, 2008 12:51 am

catullusfirst lead!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 19, 2007

catullus

Climbed SE Saddle with Jessie Liu. Pretty runout. The crux moves are a long way away from any crack systems. Took four raps to get down with a 60m rope. Augmented one of the rap stations with some new webbing and biners. First entry in the summit log since late october! Some entries date back to the 1980s. Cool!
Posted Nov 20, 2007 8:28 pm

tb00957SE saddle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007
RJ gives it 5.0, I would rate the 1st pitch about 5.5, a bit runout but fun.
Posted Aug 3, 2007 12:38 pm

Bill KishSE Saddle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 19, 2007

Bill Kish

SE Saddle from Mono Meadow with Seth. First summit register entry of 2007! On rappel we found one of the fixed pitons to be very loose, so we traversed to climbers right to an alternate rappel station. Afterwards we camped on the middle summit enjoying perfect summer-like weather. 2X June 10, 2012, BAMM Summit Bivy!
Posted May 20, 2007 10:27 pm

DigglerSE Saddle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2006

Diggler

Hiked in on Saturday, camping on top of the middle dome, which was wonderful. Camping on top of a huge, high, exposed piece of rock like that in the Rockies just wouldn’t be possible (you’d risk getting fried)- gotta love the Sierra (near) summers!

Woke up the next morning, & went up from the saddle. Concurring with Morgan (mpbro), I personally think that 5.0 is a sandbag- I’d call it a 5.4. Regardless, it was an exhilarating & fun route. Signed the summit register, admired the sublime views, & carefully descended the ascent route (which actually went a lot faster than I thought!). Left ‘camp’ (i.e. summit of middle dome) at 10.45, returning to the trailhead 4:03 afterwards (river crossings were time consuming).

Two notes to would-be summiters: I’d recommend being comfortable leading at least 5.4 when attempting this route (esp. as some of the cruxes are face climbing with no protection opportunities until the next crack system is reached). Also, if Illilouette Creek is running full, I’d recommend going R (if coming from Mono Meadows), i.e. SE, for approximately 5 min, until passing the “S” curve. Past the gravel bar, the creek widens out, such that it is (comparatively) relatively shallow across- this is just a recommendation, though- check conditions before committing!
Posted Jun 12, 2006 4:15 pm

mountainmattSE Saddle  Sucess!

mountainmatt

Led the run-out first pitch on a Starr King run with a buddy and his girl EARLY spring '05
Posted Mar 18, 2006 6:32 am

Antonio GenissimoA climbing day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2003

Antonio Genissimo

Myself, wife and friends, Mark & Gail Schelnker climbed the 5.4 (?) route. Lovely climb, nice weather, but we had a sort of sketchy descent.
Posted Feb 28, 2006 9:24 pm

RobtRoute Climbed: 5.2 Date Climbed: July 2, 2005  Sucess!

Robt

Led by Bob Suzuki and Jim Ramaker. To Mt. Clark the next day.
Posted Dec 13, 2005 1:23 pm

forjanRoute Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: October 8, 2005

forjan

We climbed as two parties of 2; I climbed with Juan Carlos Marvizon and ming21 climbed with Dave Van Selow. I found the lower section of the class 3+ friction gully to have some spicy moves since I was wearing regular tennis shoes with non-sticky rubber soles. The SE Saddle climb itself was straightforward; we descended the same class 3+ friction gully; I wore my climbing shoes for this descent. All in all, great company on a great setting.
Posted Oct 11, 2005 3:32 pm

Matthew HollimanRoute Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: May 21, 2005  Sucess!

Matthew Holliman

What Rob said below. Cool scramble up to the saddle, and a fun climb to the summit from there too. I'll have to go back to climb the northeast side some time.
Posted Jul 8, 2005 1:14 am

rhyangRoute Climbed: SE saddle Date Climbed: 21-May-2005  Sucess!

rhyang

Climbed with Matthew Holliman. Started from Happy Isles trailhead in Yosemite Valley. Got soaked by the spray from Vernal Falls on the way up. Streams were running down the trail on the way up from Nevada Falls. Approach to the base of the 3rd class friction took us about 4 hours, with some , ah, wonderful bushwhacking (according to NG Topo it was about 7 miles / 4000'). No significant snow remained on the trail.



The 750' friction climb to the saddle seemed like class 3+; I decided to get my rock shoes out for this, but Matthew did it in approach shoes. There was some snow at the base of the slabs, but it was not a problem.



Matthew led the route from the saddle in two pitches with a 50m rope as per the route page. Rapped down three times; replaced and / or augmented the slings we found. The last rap from the pitons kind of spooked me, since it traversed right, with the potential for some pendulum action over steeper ground. Kicking myself - should have brought a 60m rope for this.



The weather was pretty much perfect, with excellent views. Snow remained on the north-facing slopes. We descended the class 2 route over the middle dome.



btw Misha & Etsuko's entries in the summit log were the most recent.
Posted May 22, 2005 3:54 pm

MishaRoute Climbed: Somewhere on the SE Face Date Climbed: October 10, 2004  Sucess!

Misha

Etsuko and I climbed this awesome peak from Mono Meadows on a beautiful fall day. It was weird going through the pine tree and manzanita forest completely devastated by the recent fire. Some of the trees were still smoking. We hiked up to the saddle on the right side of the "central peak", went over the "central peak" to the SE saddle and since we had no route beta with us, just climbed what looked doable on the SE face. It felt like 5.5-5.6 in places, with a couple of runouts on the 2nd pitch.
Posted Oct 12, 2004 12:11 pm

danbknoxRoute Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: July, 11, 2004  Sucess!

danbknox

This was an epic one day trip with Joe Hanssen. 25 hours on the move door to door from the SF Bay. I had some altitude issues with going up all in one day, but it was well worth the trip! The climb was easy but a nice warm up to the summer.
Posted Sep 12, 2004 10:33 am

ncfittonRoute Climbed: Southeast saddle Date Climbed: June 26th 2004  Sucess!

ncfitton

Fun solo with an overnight bivy at the base of the gully, see trip report for details.
Posted Jun 28, 2004 11:01 am

Bob BurdRoute Climbed: Northeast Side (ascent) / Southeast Saddle (descent) Date Climbed: Feb 8, 2003  Sucess!

Bob Burd

Started at 5:15a from Curry Village, up the JMT to Nevada Falls, then cross-country over snow to the north side of the summit. Used crampons and ski poles to ascend the 40 degree snow-covered slope, arriving at 10:30a. Changed to rock shoes to descend to the Southeast Saddle. Headed west towards Illilouette Creek, then climbed to Glacier Point, arriving at 3:15p. I then went down the snow-filled chute just west of Glacier Point to take the quick descent back to the Valley. Used crampons for about half the descent, before I could boulder-hop and slide down the loose slopes to Curry Village. Back to the car at 5:45p. Long day, but great fun! Trip Report
Posted Feb 9, 2003 9:16 pm

scottybRoute Climbed: SW Saddle Date Climbed: August 16, 2002  Sucess!

scottyb

Great solo day hike from mono meadows
Posted Aug 26, 2002 11:08 pm

mpbroRoute Climbed: from SE Saddle Date Climbed: August 3, 2002  Sucess!

mpbro

Our first-ever multipitch route. We camped at the large saddle between the south and central summits--great spot, if a bit hard to reach with a heavy pack. Although the climbing was easy, the rappels turned into quite an extravaganza. Thanks to a gutsy downlead by Kim from an intermediate anchor, we were able to descend the route in "2.5" rappels with a 60-meter rope. We met the (infamous?) Yosemite climbing ranger, Mark Fincher, on the hike out, and felt less bad about our near-epic when he called the rappel "terrifying". Very fun climb!



I think "5.0" is a bit of a sandbag. The toughest moves on the first pitch seemed 5.4ish, and had some decent runouts. However, most of the rest of the route is probably class 4.



The oldest register book dates from 1985! We saw signatures from Greg Daggett ("Greg D") and Bob Burd ("snwburd").

Posted Aug 6, 2002 5:12 pm

Bob BurdRoute Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: Sept 11, 1999 / June 23, 2000  Sucess!

Bob Burd

Monty and I took my brother Tom out for his first technical climb ever - he'd never even used a harness. It was a gas, even if it didn't seem like Monty and I knew what the hell we were doing (novices ourselves). It took us all day primarily because we spent so many hours messing with the rope.



The second time I climbed with Michael on our way to Mt. Clark, and we did it more efficiently, cleaner, and faster. But it wasn't as much fun as the first time! :)
Posted Aug 29, 2001 8:34 pm

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