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YEMCascadian Couloir/SE Slope Descent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2007


After Dragontail, I knew Stuart would be next. I climbed up the rock and down the slushy snow. The summit views were amazing and I didn't see anyone else on the mountain the entire trip.
Posted Aug 20, 2007 11:52 pm

nasakWest Ridge Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2007


The traverse was quite a slog, but the rock was awesome. We approached via Ingalls Pass and went out via Longs Pass. Great views from the summit. Lots of goats, even at 8000 ft. Had to watch out for their rock fall. There were small patches of snow still for snow melt - but still important to bring plenty. We had a super sweet bivy around 8200 ft. Sheltered (almost cave like), flat & clear of rocks. It fit 3 of us with plenty of room for gear. Had a magnificant view of Adams & Rainier. AMAZING!
Posted Aug 19, 2007 3:14 am

lukicCascadian Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2007


I had a spare day and no partner, so I went up this route to scout it out for descents. One of the most beautiful views ever, but doing a one day push made for a tiring day.
Posted Jul 28, 2007 12:51 am

bc44caesarIce Cliff Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2007


Climbed the Ice Cliff Glacier in challenging conditions. Very nearly flattened by icefall after a big chunk ripped off the ice cliff - got quite pummeled by numerous pieces nonetheless. The ice cliff required several belays on sometimes poor ice - we could hear sections around us rumbling and popping often - quite terrifying. One giant crevasse that ran from side to side could only be crossed at one point, but still required a leap of faith. The bergschrund also ran from side to side. We passed it by gaining a hidden ramp on the far left side and pulling an exposed five foot overhanging lip on the upper side. The couloir was in great shape, and fortunately the cornice had dropped making the top out easy. The scrambling to the summit was quite fun after so many stressful hours. It took us around 10hrs from the base of the route to the summit; 14hrs from the car.

We descended the Sherpa Glacier and made it almost back to the Stuart Lake Trail. We had lost the trail on the way out and were bushwhacking - since I had stashed trekking poles and a headlamp on the way in along the trail and there was no chance of finding the trail in the dark we ended up passing a very cold night sleeping in the woods. The next morning we got moving by 5, quickly found my gear, and got back to the car by 7:30. Probably the most dangerous route I've been on, but the climbing and problem solving were often very interesting and in a spectacular location.
Posted Jun 25, 2007 7:38 pm

cascadeclimber1978North Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2006


Completed the North ridge on our second trip here. We were turned back by weather on the first. Well worth the second trip!!
Posted Jun 12, 2007 2:16 am

thundercloudWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006


Climbed with P and did a pretty good job making our way to the sandy ledges below the final summit pitches. Had gumby moment when rope jammed in blocky terrain just shy of final pitch. Futzed around and ate time in attempts to free rope before finally cruising to the top. Descended via Ulrich's Couloir, which was a bit of a retarded mistake, but I'd climbed this route a few years before and knew the way back. Arrived in the dark back at Ingalls Creek (at the base of the mountain), filled water, and bivyed there for the night before making the 3 mile trek back to our real camp below Ingalls Pass. Super climb, and long day. One or two gumby moments can really affect your schedule, so good to prepare. Good learning experience!
Posted Mar 13, 2007 7:51 pm

HotfeetCascadian Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006


A very enjoyable climb. Very peaceful. Hardly anyone else around. I really enjoyed the solitude.
Posted Feb 25, 2007 7:36 pm

cluckWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006


Great day on the West Ridge. Routefinding required some careful thought but was not overly difficult. We made the climb up to Long John's Tower a bit harder on ourselves by taking a central route along a left-leaning corner. Further right would have been easier, but it was fun to break out the rope & get in a little more 5th class climbing.

Overall, the climbing was easier than expected. With some solid route-research, and reasonable efficiency on the upper pitches, most parties should have no problem getting off before nightfall.
Posted Sep 13, 2006 7:18 pm

osatrikCascadian Couloir - 1994  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 28, 1994


A memorable trip, but the summit was not! The climb was in fog and we couldn't see a thing from the top.

12 of us came across Longs Pass the night before, and 6 went out after the rain and fog discouraged them, but the rest of us made it to the top without incident. On the descent we had one in the party start sliding down the steep snowfield, but was able to arrest. Passed a tent high on the ridge above the couloir -- and ended up giving the two guys in it some matches as they had none!
Posted Sep 1, 2006 5:42 am

mandrakeCascadian Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006


Perfect campsite at the base of the route up the col. Snow slope not that melted up -- cramponed up about half-way and transferred into the moat; crux of the route. Easy & fun bouldering from the ridge below the false summit over to the true summit.
Posted Aug 16, 2006 9:40 pm

Andy DeweyRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2006

Andy Dewey

Camped in meadow below couloir, came in via Longs Pass. Awesome weather and views!
Posted Aug 10, 2006 2:57 am

spotlyWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2006


Great rock! 5.6?! Yeah, right! Maybe if you have all day to look but even then, that last pitch couldn't go less than 5.8 IMHO. Made it to top of CC when sun left then continued till 1 am before opting to bivy (brrr - cold front came in unexpectedly). Great climb. Will do it again but with real bivy gear instead of space blanket - LOL.
Posted Aug 3, 2006 8:50 pm

Seth MaciejowskiNorth Ridge
Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2006

Seth Maciejowski

Long day round trip from ingalls lake. Up and over goat pass, across stuart glacier, up the ridge to the summit and down cascadian couloir and a long hike back to the packs. Every minute was worth it though. We had an excellent trip. The north ridge is absolutely spectacular. Great positions and great simulclimbing.
Posted Jul 31, 2006 2:53 pm

gatoN Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006


Climbed the N. Ridge from notch above Stuart Glacier. Excellent exposure, beautiful rock and pristine setting earn this "classic" status. The descent, not so much. But still, the Gendarme awaits...
Posted Jul 21, 2006 10:37 pm

b.Upper N Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006


Climbed the upper North Ridge with a party of four. Great climbing, but skipped the gendarme due to time. Still got back late, so we felt good about it.
Posted Jul 18, 2006 3:26 am

supermarmotClimbed with agreenstreet  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2006


see below:)
Posted Jul 9, 2006 6:32 am

agreenstreetRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir 6-21-2006  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2006


Climbed Couloir in one day. Left Trail head at 5:30 a.m., got back to car at 8 P.M. Fun climb, almost clear of snow until the upper snowfield. scramble over to summit was awsome. We had perfect weather without any wind at all on the summit. We could see clouds spilling over the cascade crest between Lemah, Chimney rock and Mt. Daniel.
Posted Jun 24, 2006 7:17 am

TMn ridge, w ridge  Sucess!


Climbed NR in late Sept, WR in May with a good bit of snow climbing on the route. Nice that way. NR is a super-classic, and the knife-edge leads directly to the start of the crack on the Gendarme, which is nice. Great mountain.
Posted Apr 10, 2006 6:03 am

ericdUp: Cascade Coulier/Down: Urlich  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2005


Wonderful weekend climb and excellent workout. Switched out crampons between bouldering and ice travel a couple times. 360* view of other Cascade bretheren. 6000' Elevation gain.
Posted Mar 24, 2006 8:24 pm

rialtosolRoute Climbed:Ulrichs-Cascadian  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2004


Other than not being sure whether we were headed up the cascadian to begin with, it was pretty straight forward. We ended up going about 3/4 of the way up Ulrich's before traversing over to the cascadion colour. The snow field just below the false summit had receded alot by August so we were able to skirt it, not needing to use crampons.
Posted Feb 27, 2006 3:47 am

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