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Mount Terror, East Ridge
Route

Mount Terror, East Ridge

 
Mount Terror, East Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 48.77340°N / 121.2995°W

Object Title: Mount Terror, East Ridge

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: A long day

Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS)

Difficulty: Moderate

Number of Pitches: 5

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: AlpineGT

Created/Edited: Oct 11, 2013 / Oct 12, 2013

Object ID: 871460

Hits: 466 

Page Score: 77.06%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview

Great climb with strong start and finish. Rock solid during harder areas with some loose rock along sections.  Provides great view of Picket Range and surrounding valleys.   

Getting There

Either hike up Terror Creek trail to saddle near Chopping Block or cross the Barrier from McMillian Spire and Inspiration Peak Basecamp area. A small gravel field with a stream running through tucked away from wind.  Once on saddle there is a small flat area on the rocks enough for 2-3 tents and two tent sites further along the ridge.  From the ridge walk East away from the Chopping Block then drop down into the valley traversing the scree and talus to the base of the East Ridge about an hour to base of climb. Short snow field and scramble lets you take to ridge where the climb begins with a hand width crack.

Route

Mount Terror is the peak center left. Traverse the scree filed, go up the snow field and the couloir to gain the ridge and get to base climb.  The East Ridge route we took wrapped around to the south face then up to the summit, descending the West Ridge via gulley. First picture shows start of climb. Can be done with mountaineering boots just fine.  The route goes up two pitches then traverses to the south face along some loose rock then wraps up again for two pitches with some 5th class rock mixed in.

 

Descend via the West Ridge 3-4th Class rock. Rappelling is a faster safer way to get down to the rap station  on the West Ridge. Drop down into the gulley make sure to stay on the southern side of the mountain to enter Crescent Creek Valley. Continue down to a small drop 10-12ft above chock stone. Can be down climbed but is often wet so may need a quick rappel.  Area does have the possibility of wells during later season so watch out for them as you descend to the snow field. Then traverse back across the valley to campsite 8-10 hours depending on conditions and team.

 

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Finishing first pitch

 

 

 

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Essential Gear

Standard alpine rack: A few cams, stoppers, and a couple alpine or extendable draws.  Two 60m makes for faster rappels. Ice axe and crampons if snow and ice present on approach. Long day make sure to adequate water.

 External Links

Weather Forecast

NWHikers Trip Report

Spectacular Pickets Traverse Enchainment TR

Images

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