Mount Whitney Climber's Log
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|citadel07||Route Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: July 25, 2005|
|Great trip. Still plenty of snow in chute and at Iceberg Lake. Streams are still running strong which made for some interesting crossings and hailed on 2 afternoons in a row. Awesome trip overall.|
|Posted Jul 27, 2005 4:30 pm|
|tonyo||Route Climbed: main trail Date Climbed: July 23, 2005|
|Day hiked with my son, who made it to the summit in 4:25. Needless to say, I took a bit longer. Ok, maybe a lot longer. 3rd 14er.|
|Posted Jul 24, 2005 10:27 am|
|SusanM||Route Climbed: Main Trail Date Climbed: July 17, 2005|
|Glissaded from Trail Crest down to Trail Camp. Big Fun! I can't wait to try the Mountaineering Route.|
|Posted Jul 23, 2005 11:29 pm|
|Matthew Holliman||A nice peak if you avoid the trail... |
Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2005
|Dayhiked the East Buttress out of the Portal on June 5 '05 with Brian Decker. Some amazingly slow members tagging along in our approach party meant we took several hours longer to reach the start of the climb than I'd expected, and Brian and I were climbing in the shade after the first two or three pitches. Damn, it gets cold up there! But the climbing is moderate, fun, and the route would be an absolute blast if climbed in the sun on a calm day. I think I enjoyed the last few unroped class 3-4 "pitches" best of all.|
Cramponed down the MR (taking the North Face traverse variation to avoid the icy uppermost portion of the chute), and got lost while trying to descend the Ebersbacher Ledges in the dark--with some truly heinous bushwhacking around the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek while trying to find the trail--to round out the day's variety of adventuring. Memorable outing.
I've also been up a couple of the non-technical routes. On my first visit (Aug 17, '03), after a brief scramble up Mt. Muir, the result of changed plans on Day 9 of the 2003 Sierra Challenge, I figured I ought to at least stroll up the trail to tag Whitney's summit while I was in the area. This proved to be every bit as exciting as White Mountain Peak earlier in the week.
I came back a year later (Aug 28, '04) as part of a five-peak dayhike loop out of Whitney Portal: Carillon-Tunnabora-Russell-Whitney-Muir. This was much more enjoyable than the first visit. The north side of Whitney was a surprisingly fun scramble, maybe even better than Russell, with some steep slabs in places.
|Posted Jul 17, 2005 10:51 pm|
|rockcairn||Route Climbed: Mount Whitney Trail Date Climbed: July 12, 2005|
|There are still a few snow crossings, but no problem getting by the cable railing on the swtichbacks above trail camp.|
|Posted Jul 14, 2005 7:13 pm|
|Cody||Route Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: April 30 2005|
|Via Mountaineers Route. My first summit on Whitney.|
|Posted Jul 11, 2005 2:48 pm|
|mtldrinstr||Route Climbed: Whitney Trail Date Climbed: July 1995|
|Beautiful trip, can't wait to do it again.|
|Posted Jul 10, 2005 7:45 pm|
|ajdonner||Route Climbed: Trail from west side (via High Sierra Trail-Crescent Meadow) Date Climbed: Summer 2001|
|Awesome eight days with my father and brother-in-law.|
|Posted Jul 8, 2005 11:25 pm|
|oaklander||Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: July 2, 2005|
|Camped at Upper Boy Scout Lake. Route took longer than we expected. Rapped down mountaineers route. Nighted at Iceberg Lake and made an "unexpected " bivy. Super fun! Going back to do East Buttress soon.|
|Posted Jul 6, 2005 8:07 pm|
|jtostenr||Route Climbed: Mountaineer's Route Date Climbed: June 27, 2005|
|We hiked up to Upper Boyscout Lake the first day and the rest of the way the next day. The final chute had quite a bit of ice at the beginning, but was not difficult to navigate around. Higher up, the snow was very icy so we chose to scrable up the rocks. This was a really fun climb. I hope to return some day to climb the east face.|
|Posted Jul 5, 2005 3:39 am|
|JanG||Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: June 26, 2005|
|For me it was a great achievement to be once again [after 16 years, this time with my son] at the top of this awesome mountain ! Our guide from Sierra Mountaineering, Inc made all the difference for us. First, Neil found a very nice camping spot by Thor Lake, sheltered from the elements and without any snow on the ground. It was located a few hundred feet lower than Iceberg Lake which was still frozen and its usual camp sites all snow covered. |
At daybreak we continued on our trek thru fields of snow cups and neve and did not encounter a single mountaineer the entire day. We began the rock climb below the Tower Traverse at about 7.30AM. It took us about 7.5 hours to reach the summit. It was Neil's expert guidance that facilitated our success at the usual critical technical spots [my crux of the climb was the dihedral at the top of the Grand Staircase]. The exposure and views during the climb were awesome and the technical aspects were definitely harder than anything I had encountered at the Hornli Ridge of the Matterhorn.Our descent via the Mountaineers Route was greatly facilitated by glissading in the snow-covered chutes.
I highly recommend the latter part of June as a great time to climb this spectacular route in total solitude and opting to camp lower to avoid snow and cold nights!
|Posted Jul 4, 2005 3:06 pm|
|SkydiveKen||Route Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: August 20 2004|
|Perfect weather perfect climb great fun.|
|Posted Jul 4, 2005 1:41 am|
|SkydiveKen||Route Climbed: Main trail Date Climbed: October 22/23 2004|
|Easy going very little snow from trail crest.|
|Posted Jul 4, 2005 1:36 am|
|jwhitaker||Route Climbed: Mt. Whitney Trail Date Climbed: June 26th, 2005|
|My first time up a fourteener! It was probably the hardest thing I have done in my life, but extremely rewarding. The climb from trail camp to trail crest was made much easier by the switchbacks being about 80% clear. Cables still under snow but passable. Crampons and ice axe very handy and probably necesary. Steep snow crossing at the top for about 150 feet to the Crest made me uneasy but very doable. One of the most beautiful places I have hiked in the world. Excellent trip!|
|Posted Jul 1, 2005 5:45 pm|
|edog2005||Route Climbed: Main Route Date Climbed: 23 Jun 2005|
|Made it up to about 13,000ft on the snow chute before turning back. Had ice axe and instep crampons and felt fit and acclimatised but the snow and ice conditions were too challenging for me. The switchbacks were still blocked at the cable section. I have a photo report at:|
|Posted Jun 30, 2005 5:30 am|
|Zzyzx||Route Climbed: Niorth Face Date Climbed: May 29, 2005|
|Went up the North slope with Pavel and Roman after decending Mt. Russell. I found this route quite easy with the snow cover, less steep than the last section of Mountaineer's Route. I estimate it to be comparable in steepness to Avalanche Gulch on Shasta in the steepest sections. Our 2nd summit that day.|
|Posted Jun 25, 2005 10:30 pm|
|MarieP||Route Climbed: Mountaineer's Route Date Climbed: March 2005|
|It was a great climb, but it was saddened by the fatal incident of a solo climber on our summit day. Please take great care on the last 300 yards to the summit!|
|Posted Jun 17, 2005 1:41 am|
|ksolem||Route Climbed: Various Date Climbed: 1984-2005|
|Did the East Face in '85 with Julie Lazar. Soloed the East Butt three times since then. The descent to the Mountaineers route gulley is always thought provoking.|
|Posted Jun 16, 2005 5:19 pm|
|Johnhl94563||Route Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: June 11th, 2005|
|What Rob said :-)|
Actually a great climb. Planned on going for the East Face but the Washboard and right below the alcove still had snow on it. And early start is definately a must on this climb during this time of the year. Very soft snow.
|Posted Jun 13, 2005 11:59 am|
|rhyang||Route Climbed: Mountaineer's Date Climbed: 11-June-2005|
|Started from Upper Boy Scout Lake around 6:30 with group organized by Johnhl94563, temps were around freezing; great snow for cramponing up to Iceberg Lake. By the time we entered the main gully around 9ish, things got softer, but firmed up as we ascended. The last 100-200' of the gully was melted out and very loose - use caution to avoid pelting rocks on parties climbing below.|
At the notch, we had a choice of going up the first steep chute, or a gentler but long and somewhat exposed traverse on the north face to the west slope. Three of the group ascended the traverse. I climbed the chute, which had a class 3 rock scramble near the bottom, and maybe 45-50 degree hard snow up to the summit plateau. An enjoyable fix for this ice junkie.
The day was a bit windy and cool, good for keeping the snow firm above 14000'. We had excellent views, and a marmot & various birds thronged for snack handouts (don't leave packs unattended on the summit).
We descended via the traverse back to the notch, downclimbed the main gully about 2/3 of the way, glissaded back to Iceberg Lake in soft conditions, then plunge-stepped back to UBSL.
|Posted Jun 13, 2005 2:18 am|